What matters is the relationship between the speed of the shutter curtains and the rate at which the subject is moving across the film plane. Motion blur will also occur, the amount of which will increase with slit width and subject velocity.
So to get the nice distorted effect, you want to have a very narrow, slowish-moving slit and fast-moving subject. In terms of an SLR, you can tell how fast the slit moves by looking at its flash x-sync speed, since that is the shortest shutter wherein both curtains are open concurrently. Say you have an x-sync of 1/160s, that means it takes about 1/160 for one curtain to open and 1/160 for the other to close and the width of the slit is 1/160 of a second. Run that shutter at 1/1600 and the slit will be about 1/10 of the frame wide and at 1/8000 it will be 1/50th of a frame wide. If you can find a subject that moves appreciably in 1/160 of a second (the total exposure duration), then the distortion will be visible.
If you want to cause the distortion, look for a camera with a really slow - like 1/50s - x-sync speed: at that speed, it takes each curtain 1/50s to traverse the frame. So to get the distortion without too much motion blur, you need a shutter speed of about 1/2500 and a subject that can move an appreciable distance across the frame in 1/50s.
If you want extreme, go buy a (sorry it's not analogue) scanning back

In fact, you could think of the slitted-cloth shutter on the 4x5 as a kind of scanning back... same goes for clockwork pano cameras that expose using a slit.