The Nikon F5

[Theo Sulphate]

3D color matrix meter

Very good for slides, BAD for negative color or B&W.

Even though I don't have an F5 and I don't shoot slides, I am curious why this would be so.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Even though I don't have an F5 and I don't shoot slides, I am curious why this would be so.

I was wondering the same thing. Especially because the F5 was probably used very heavily by journalists.

 

[pentaxuser]

I can say that the focus points not lighting up red is a bit of a disappointment. Makes it rather hard to tell which point you're on.

This has always been a point I have worried about in considering purchasing an F5. Is it a problem in daylight or just an issue in very poor ambient light and how much is it just a question of having to concentrate more to be aware of the focus points rather than not being able to see them at all

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[k.hendrik]

SB-50 with F5. Just started to use a Mecablitz 45 CL-4with sca 3402 don't have results yet but it weighs a ton (including 80-200D) 3.880 to be precise!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77846450@N00/17182532650/in/dateposted-public/
light version

 

[mablo]

Even though I don't have an F5 and I don't shoot slides, I am curious why this would be so.

F100 and F5 both tend to underexpose in higher contrast lighting situations when in Matrix mode. This is presumably because the early Matrix was designed for chromes in mind. That's what most people were shooting those days. If you shoot negative film with your F5 or F100 the best overall metering mode is the weighted average.

 

[markbarendt]

Even though I don't have an F5 and I don't shoot slides, I am curious why this would be so.

It is only a personal preference not a rule.

Dunn & Wakefield in their Exposure Manual indicate exactly the opposite, if an exposure setting is workable for a slide it should be very workable for a negative.

 

[destroya]

for what its worth,

i have shot whole rolls of film, first shot with matrix, second shot with center weighted, third manual with a spot meter determining app and time. of the 12 shots, there was hardly any difference on them when shooting neg film. slide film, matrix was clearly better with less over exposure.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That was about Bronicas. This does not count. :

Aren't you going to say that the F100 is better because the F5 is as big as a Bronica?

The F100 is smaller than the F5. Walking around with an F5 is like having an elephant hanging around your neck, silly.

 

[Sirius Glass]

F100 and F5 both tend to underexpose in higher contrast lighting situations when in Matrix mode. This is presumably because the early Matrix was designed for chromes in mind. That's what most people were shooting those days. If you shoot negative film with your F5 or F100 the best overall metering mode is the weighted average.

I have never had that problem with the F100. I guess my F100 is better than your F100.

 

[Alan Gales]

The F100 is smaller than the F5. Walking around with an F5 is like having an elephant hanging around your neck, silly.

I know the F100 is smaller than the F5. I was just kidding you that the F5 was as big and heavy as a Bronica because of what you said in another thread about Bronica SQ's.

You may have been thinking about the earlier EC's. They are nice cameras but a bit clunky and have the loudest shutters I have ever heard!

 

[MartinCrabtree]

This has always been a point I have worried about in considering purchasing an F5. Is it a problem in daylight or just an issue in very poor ambient light and how much is it just a question of having to concentrate more to be aware of the focus points rather than not being able to see them at all

Thanks

pentaxuser

I use Dynamic Area focusing which uses the center as primary and follows a moving subject into the others. This makes all focus areas active with the center #1. Also turn off the shutter release as focus trigger (via custom setting #4) using the AF-on button on the back with my thumb for focus. Press the AF-on button with the subject centered,wait for confirm (short wait) and release AF if subject is stationary or stay on and let the camera do what it does best.. I have custom settings 1&2 set to release priority as well. Get a few out of focus shots if careless but won't miss one waiting for focus. I leave the camera set up this way all the time. Use it on my digital bodies as well. Takes a little to acclimate but once done is intuitive and fast. Oh and forgot I leave the shutter release on CL at 3 FPS which is more than adequate for most situations.

BTW the F5 is the one I'd keep if I could have only one.

 

[walbergb]

And I just discovered the removable viewfinder.

That's one of the reasons I went with the F5. I also wanted the manual rewind option.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have never had that problem with the F100. I guess my F100 is better than your F100.

I know the F100 is smaller than the F5. I was just kidding you that the F5 was as big and heavy as a Bronica because of what you said in another thread about Bronica SQ's.

You may have been thinking about the earlier EC's. They are nice cameras but a bit clunky and have the loudest shutters I have ever heard!

I was pulling your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain ...

All good
​

 

[Alan Gales]

I was pulling your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain because you pulled my chain because I pulled your chain ...

All good
​

I gotcha. Of course all good. Like you said on LFPF, a little craziness helps!

 

[mablo]

I have never had that problem with the F100. I guess my F100 is better than your F100.

It's all well documented. Not just me and my ramblings.

 

[adknrsst]

Things concerning the F5 I wish I'd read on a forum before learning them myself:

1) when shooting black & white with a coloured filter, set metering mode to center-weighted. The matrix meter is colour sensitive, and for many scenes it won't adjust exposure at all regardless of whether there's a K2 yellow or a medium orange on the lens. Center-weighted adjusts exactly as much as the filter's spec implies.

2) the matrix meter is strongly geared towards correct exposure of slide film. If that's your thing, it's basically infallible point-and-shoot for as long as your definition of correct exposure means "nothing burnt". Sometimes this translates into well-exposed neon displays towards the back and inky underexposure everywhere else.

3) people like to say the F5 chews up batteries like candy. Mine doesn't, even occasionally doing lots of bug macro with a VR lens I've yet to change Eneloops more than once per year -- that's some 20-30 rolls at a charge. The mistake here is bringing a spare set even when the camera shows two bars, instead of three more rolls or a bit of choccy or something.

As for bulk, eh. The body adapts by getting stronger. Bags unfortunately don't, and an OM-2 fits in many places a F5 wouldn't. (and the spare batteries are smaller, too.)

 

[John Koehrer]

Ya know it's reassuring to know you're holding an F5 with an 80-200 f2.8 one touch weighing in at 8# when you head down a dark alley instead of some wimpy F100 with a 50 1.8.

I think a lighter camera at the end of a strap would be a little better. You can get it up to speed faster than the other combination. It's harder to control deceleration and the F5 does have the advantage of mass, so gives a better follow through.

 

[markbarendt]

I think a lighter camera at the end of a strap would be a little better. You can get it up to speed faster than the other combination. It's harder to control deceleration and the F5 does have the advantage of mass, so gives a better follow through.

Mines regularly on the end of a monopod so...

 

[Chan Tran]

I think of price per pound so I never mind the weight of the F5 but rather like it as I get a good deal. May be not a good deal as I paid near $2000 for it back in 2002.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

I paid $350 (I think) for this body sans glass from a member here.

 

[Paul Howell]

I think of price per pound so I never mind the weight of the F5 but rather like it as I get a good deal. May be not a good deal as I paid near $2000 for it back in 2002.

I think you got a good deal, you have had it for 14 years, or $142 a year, and it is still works and in good condition still worth $500.

I bought my first 35 SLR a Spotmatic for $350 with a 3 lens kit, although currently I only use a couple of time a year, cost per year is $7.14. Cost is likely higher if I count the cleaning and adjustment costs over the years.

 

[CropDusterMan]

I loved the F5, was built like a tank. At the time it was released, the SB-28 was the flash on the market...
amazing metering. For build quality, there was no equal.

 

[GarageBoy]

I'm thinking of selling my F3P for one... Yeah, the F3P is retro press cool, but so is the F5 - and I can use G lenses on it- also think the f5 is easier to carry around and the green dot assist is helpful.

 

[Chan Tran]

I think you got a good deal, you have had it for 14 years, or $142 a year, and it is still works and in good condition still worth $500.

I bought my first 35 SLR a Spotmatic for $350 with a 3 lens kit, although currently I only use a couple of time a year, cost per year is $7.14. Cost is likely higher if I count the cleaning and adjustment costs over the years.

Nah not such a good deal. I used my F5 very little as I am quite disappointed with its metering system both ambient and flash. My is in like new condition.

My F3HP bought in 82 still working fine at $460 that's a lot cheaper and it's the camera I use today rather than the F5. The F5 is in its original box and in the closet.

 

[blockend]

Sorry to pour cold water on the thread, but an F5 doesn't make any sense in the 2016 market, except as a historical talking point. Who shoots film at 4 fps? Who needs massive battery power? The Nikon F5 is like a Canon EOS1 and similar pro models of the era, a cutting edge professional sports and journalism camera for the 1990s man who doesn't mind a groove in his shoulder, but does little for a contemporary film shooter that something half the weight wouldn't do as well.

Every camera with professional aspirations from the T90 suffered from the same steroid abuse. An F3 is a Mini, an F5 is a BMW Mini.