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A couple of posts like this before breakfast make you feel good for the rest of the day?
A couple of posts like this before breakfast make you feel good for the rest of the day?someone who was too cheap to send a slightly damaged example off to be seen by qualified service techs...
Like, the qualified service tech who charged just a little less (coincidence, of course) than the purchase value of my GS645W to fix a slightly tight shutter release and clean the V/F; a few years later, being too cheap to pay again 300€ when the lens ring stack started falling apart, I discovered the qualified service tech had literally doused in oil the lens rings, causing the screws at the base of the ring stack to come loose. The camera is now fine, thank you.qualified service techs...
Ben, when you buy a lens 'for cheap' and there is something wrong with it (in my case, oil on the aperture blades but getting to those blades was the difficult part) there is temptation to try to fix it, since all else is well. I see nothing wrong with that and everything to learn from. I have learned a lot through the years doing just that, The alternative is throwing it away, My decision was sound.Why oh why do photographers think they can also fix photographic equipment ?, I consider the costs of having my equipment professionally maintained occasionally as part of the expense of being a serious photographer which is probably (although it was all bought second hand) why it's still working fine after using it for more than thirty years.
And it is this toxic overkill that I will be vehemently cursing until the day I die. - David LygaI've read that some manufacturers use a thread-locker which must be thinned with solvent before the elements can be unscrewed.
I have NEVER come across SCREWS that are reverse threaded, but I HAVE dealt with NUTS that are reverse threaded, albeit not in lenses but in SLR bodies, especially under that film advance lever. This is a true bitch to deal with, as you must tighten to find out which way to turn, and even the same model (early vs late Spotmatics) can incorporate either. - David LygaWorse than that are screws that are reverse threaded.
'Camera Repair' is a continuum. Some things are easy and some are difficult. Expertise follows this continuum. I see nothing wrong with learning and succeeding within this endeavor. - David Lyga... or have tinkered with mechanics since childhood days. This of course does not make you a camera repairer but is a good starting point to be added by textbooks, service manuals and ... trial & error.
This is correct, but, I think maybe unnecessary overkill from my experiences. However, theoretically AgX is correct. - David LygaI do not remember such at a lens (but would not be really surprised either) but at camera bodies there are such.
The main reason for such is a screw that holds a lever or similar that only in one direction is moved under such force that it may by friction turn loose a standard screw.
Any reverse threaded nut sits on such screw.I have NEVER come across SCREWS that are reverse threaded, but I HAVE dealt with NUTS that are reverse threaded.
A couple of posts like this before breakfast make you feel good for the rest of the day?
David, in these days the reason old equipment ( the sort we film enthusiasts) can be "bought for cheap" is that the cost to service it is greater than the resale value, you may think I'm crazy but I have often paid much more to have an item that I really liked refurbished than it was worth, and since I had bought it for use and never intended to sell it how much I could sell it for is irrelevant . I have several such items whose useable life has been extended by 20 to 30 years that I can continue enjoy using for the rest of my life that I consider an investment in my pleasure.Ben, when you buy a lens 'for cheap' and there is something wrong with it (in my case, oil on the aperture blades but getting to those blades was the difficult part) there is temptation to try to fix it, since all else is well. I see nothing wrong with that and everything to learn from. I have learned a lot through the years doing just that, The alternative is throwing it away, My decision was sound.
Even lenses that are perfect NOW can become problems later. For example, heat causing the helicoid grease to liquify. I sense that you are really upset with such efforts, Ben, but, with this, there is nothing to lose and everything to gain. - David Lyga
How many of you ever attempted to remove all the elements from a complicated zoom ... and lived to tell the truth? - David Lyga
Ben, I certainly do not attempt to deny you this pleasure and, to you, real meaning with what you love. There is an alternate side to this: with stuff being so cheap, it is tempting to try to do this on one's own. This is what this hobby is all about; to each his own.David, in these days the reason old equipment ( the sort we film enthusiasts) can be "bought for cheap" is that the cost to service it is greater than the resale value, you may think I'm crazy but I have often paid much more to have an item that I really liked refurbished than it was worth, and since I had bought it for use and never intended to sell it how much I could sell it for is irrelevant . I have several such items whose useable life has been extended by 20 to 30 years that I can continue enjoy using for the rest of my life that I consider an investment in my pleasure.
It is truly that 'twinge of fungus' which becomes more tempting to eliminate than anything else in life. We perfectionists are not happy with 99%, but we opt to have it all and, in the meantime, we dig our collective grave. Yes, I have done this when I should not have done this. These damn 'feathers' are one of the most annoying components of the new AF stuff. - David LygaOne success & 2 failures.
Looking for a Nikkor 35-135 AF for my F4 and found one attached to a F65. But on arrival the camera was faulty (fixed that) and the lens had fungus growing on every element. Pulled it apart and it cleaned up near perfect. Used it for a while on the F4 and tested it against some other lenses on a Sony Nex. It was great, should have been happy with that. But could still see a twinge of fungus. Thought I was well experienced by now but forgot about the metal feather connector for the auto focus motor and tore it when I pulled the lens apart - it is in the parts bin now. Interestingly in the middle of this lens is a double element that is completely sealed. The fungus was in between these elements. They are factory sealed into the plastic surround. Thinking about it later maybe a hole could be drilled into the casing to insert a small tool to clean the inside of these lenses but it is a mystery how fungus starts in a completely sealed section! Not a complete failure though, the lens element attached to the aperture frame makes for a great loupe.
Just a note regarding testing lenses after re-assembly - ortho-litho film is fabulous for this. Get a pack of 4x5 for a few bucks, cut it under safelight and stick in the camera. It does take a lot of light, but the speed of working with it is fantastic. Handle under safelights, develops in a tray with paper developer in about a minute. Really, really handy and a huge time saver.
Years ago I bought a few 100 ft rolls of 35mm UNperforated Kodak ImageLink microfilm. This is the BEST for judging contrast. For shooting in low contrast scenes, it is unsurpassed. However, with sunlit scenes with shadow detail, it is a disaster. It is the most unforgiving film out there, but resolution is tops, bar none. - David LygaJust a note regarding testing lenses after re-assembly - ortho-litho film is fabulous for this. Get a pack of 4x5 for a few bucks, cut it under safelight and stick in the camera. It does take a lot of light, but the speed of working with it is fantastic. Handle under safelights, develops in a tray with paper developer in about a minute. Really, really handy and a huge time saver.
A handy tip, but it is good to keep in mind ortho film or paper can catch you with a false positive test if you then switch to a panchromatic film and weren't paying overly close attention while checking the lens.
Years ago I bought a few 100 ft rolls of 35mm UNperforated Kodak ImageLink microfilm. This is the BEST for judging contrast. For shooting in low contrast scenes, it is unsurpassed. However, with sunlit scenes with shadow detail, it is a disaster. It is the most unforgiving film out there, but resolution is tops, bar none. - David Lyga
A handy tip, but it is good to keep in mind ortho film or paper can catch you with a false positive test if you then switch to a panchromatic film and weren't paying overly close attention while checking the lens.
I don't get your point.
I understand that for general testing a Orthochromatic film is the lesser choice as it does lesser disclose chromatic abberations than a panchromatic film. But then again colour filmn is the best choice for such anyway.
But I do not undertand why orthochromatic film is not apt for just checking a reassembly of a lens.
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