The expense of shooting film

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Roger Cole

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I think there's a few of us who literally have stored film for 30 years in a freezer and it's appeared to work "perfectly" when defrosted.

Slower films maybe. Don't try that with TMZ or Delta 3200. Of course most are in between, but it's a big stretch for 400 speed films too.
 

Agulliver

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Yeah I wouldn't keep TMZ or Delta 3200 more than three or four years. In fact I've got some of the latter I need to work through in the next 12 months or so. But I've had stuff like Fomapan T800 over twenty years in the freezer, HP5, Tri-X 30 years. I'm just finishing off a 100 foot roll of HP5 that expired in 1994, and wasn't even refrigerated for the first ten years. It *is* showing a little base fog, I wouldn't push it to 1600 but it's doing just fine. Even Ektachrome seems to do 20 years in the freezer happily.
 

Mackinaw

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I think there's a few of us who literally have stored film for 30 years in a freezer and it's appeared to work "perfectly" when defrosted.

I found several boxes of 120 Agfa 25 in our freezer, that probably date to 1988 or so (possibly earlier). I shot several rolls earlier this summer, and the negs look perfectly fine.

Jim B.
 
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Slower films maybe. Don't try that with TMZ or Delta 3200. Of course most are in between, but it's a big stretch for 400 speed films too.

I'm shooting 25 year old Fuji 400PR and still getting good results; not that I ever rated it at 400, maybe 320, usually 200 (but always developed for 400).

20-25 year old 320TXP is also yielding pretty on point results. For instance, this, this, or this.

But some bulk loaded Fuji 1600PR that I have no idea how was stored was thoroughly unusable even shot at 800.

I definitely get far better results (unsurprisingly) out of expired, well-kept black and white film than colour film, but it's still a crapshoot. Anything I absolutely need (which is very little, on film) I shoot on fresh film. Or preferably digital.
 

Roger Cole

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I found several boxes of 120 Agfa 25 in our freezer, that probably date to 1988 or so (possibly earlier). I shot several rolls earlier this summer, and the negs look perfectly fine.

Jim B.
Oh I'm sure a film that slow would be good for a long time, though I wouldn't be sure of 1988 until I tested it, as you did.

I wish I had stored some Agfa C41, particularly Ultra 50. Like Velvia in neg film, it wasn't for everything but for things where you really wanted that over the top saturation, wow.
 

xkaes

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Oh I'm sure a film that slow would be good for a long time, though I wouldn't be sure of 1988 until I tested it, as you did.

I'm still shooting Agfapan 25 in 35mm, 120 and 4x5" that is that old and it works fine. Way back then, I tested it to get the CI I wanted with my development -- and I expose it at ISO 12. I did back then and I still do now.

Works great -- as does my Ektar 25.

Doubt all you want -- and if there are others out there who have old frozen film, but doubt that it is any good, please let us know. We'd love to take it off your hands -- you'll sleep much better without all that doubt weighing on you. As Mr Negative says: "You can't put a price on happiness".
 

SodaAnt

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One way to avoid that problem is don't shoot hundreds of images, and of the images you do shoot, only edit the keepers. I acknowledge that some people are, for some reason, unable to restrain themselves, but that is a problem with them, not the medium.

+1

Just because digital allows you to quickly take hundreds of images doesn’t mean you should. When I go out with my digital gear I can spend a full day in the field and come home with 10-15 images. The memory card manufacturers hate me.

And of those 10-15 images, I might only spend time working on less that half of them in Photoshop, and fewer yet get printed.
 

CMoore

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What advantage does 100ASA have over 400 in the freezer.?
Thank You
 

Sirius Glass

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What advantage does 100ASA have over 400 in the freezer.?
Thank You

I have very little ISO 100 film in my freezer. I have mostly ISO 400 films in the freezer.
 

Sirius Glass

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The faster the film, the more subject it is to fogging from all exposure, including cosmic rays which are not stopped by temperature.

I have not found that to be a factor with ISO 400 film stored for over a decade. Faster films may be sensitive enough to have those problems, but I do not have experience with those films.
 

CMoore

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The faster the film, the more subject it is to fogging from all exposure, including cosmic rays which are not stopped by temperature.

I have not found that to be a factor with ISO 400 film stored for over a decade. Faster films may be sensitive enough to have those problems, but I do not have experience with those films.
The score seems to stand at
400 is OK... 1
and
400 not OK... 1
 

xkaes

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The film in my freezer is stored in those lead film bags. The are cheap, don't need batteries, and let me know what's film and what's not.
 

Arthurwg

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Did anyone mention the price of paper? How about $177.50 for 100 sheets o f Ilford 8x10?
 

chuckroast

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Did anyone mention the price of paper? How about $177.50 for 100 sheets o f Ilford 8x10?


Stop buying Ilford and buy Fomabrom Variant 111 VC FB. Cheaper and better in every way than the Ilford paper. I like Ilford's products for the most part, but their papers are not great.
 

chuckroast

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I found several boxes of 120 Agfa 25 in our freezer, that probably date to 1988 or so (possibly earlier). I shot several rolls earlier this summer, and the negs look perfectly fine.

Jim B.


I have processed freezer store film from the early 1970s recently and it worked just fine.

I have processed no-idea-how-it-was-stored Super-XX from 1961 and it mostly worked fine. The problems were mechanical, not chemical or emulsion. The sheets were stuck together and caused damage to the film service.

In both cases, the trick was to use very dilute semistand development to manage fog and get full film speed. D-23 worked well, but showed more grain. Pyrocat-HD showed slightly more fog, but far less grain.

I consider anything I bought and froze with dates from 1980 and forward more-or-less new ...
 
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What advantage does 100ASA have over 400 in the freezer.?
Thank You

The faster the film, the more subject it is to fogging from all exposure, including cosmic rays which are not stopped by temperature.

I have not found that to be a factor with ISO 400 film stored for over a decade. Faster films may be sensitive enough to have those problems, but I do not have experience with those films.

The score seems to stand at
400 is OK... 1
and
400 not OK... 1

Cosmic rays are not the only type of ionizing radiation that fog film and aren't slowed by low storage temperature. Steve lives in Los Angeles, which is generally built upon soil that doesn't have much rock. Those who reside where the subsurface geology includes a lot of granite, or whose homes suffer from radon gas (a bigger problem than the one it presents to their film), will likely have a different experience. :smile:
 
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