A contax G3? does such a thing exist? I thought the line died with the G2.
Anything can work for street, and don't try for incognito, hide yourself in plain sight. You'll get better stuff.
The best rangefinder for street photography
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A contax G3? does such a thing exist? I thought the line died with the G2.
Anything can work for street, and don't try for incognito, hide yourself in plain sight. You'll get better stuff.
A Leica M7 with 35mm or 28mm lens will do the job fast, will focus on the right point, it will give a sharp negative and maximum preformance in 35mm photography.
When asking for a medium format R.F. : Mamiya 7 II or the new Cosina Voigtländer Bessa III 667 with 6x6 or 6x7cm possibility.
The handling with a Leica R.F. is however faster. (Except changing the film).
When asking for a medium format R.F. : Mamiya 7 II or the new Cosina Voigtländer Bessa III 667 with 6x6 or 6x7cm possibility.
The handling with a Leica R.F. is however faster. (Except changing the film).
I don't think you understand Krzys, the longer the base of a rangefinder is the more accurate.
What Krzys may mean is for example the CV lenses will go from infinity to 1 meter in 45 degrees of twist, not 320 degrees.
But in street photography you will be lucky to have time to focus, framing a shot may require too much time.
Noel
I like my Nikon FM with an AiS version of 50mm F1.8 pancake lens for that reason for street shooting. I don't have to turn the focusing ring that much, and the lens is nice and small.
It's a SLR package but is compact and works quite good for this purpose.
I am sure a silver, pink, or polka dotted one would do just as well for you.
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- Ektagraphic
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I think my ideal street setup would be any black rf to which a 24/1.4 is attached.
One of my favorite street cameras is a little Agfa Optima-Parat. It's a half-frame camera. It's quick and quiet. It's svelte. And it has an excellent lens.
The trap-needle autoexposure system is accurate in most instances, and zone focusing the camera is a snap.
The trap-needle autoexposure system is accurate in most instances, and zone focusing the camera is a snap.
This one may not be the best but no one can deny it's a real beauty:
How can changing roll film be faster than loading a Leica M7?
My M6 loads very quickly and easily: I even timed it once for another thread here, it was hardly any slower than most other classic 35mm cameras (I have no "quick-load" types, though).
I don't do street photography but I do photograph my friends in a style like what I imagine street photographers use.
I've used many cameras over the years and to be honest, I've found little difference between them in terms of getting the photo I want, you soon learn how to get the camera to work for you. It seems to me that body language is more important; being relaxed, fitting in, acting casual etc.
I've used many cameras over the years and to be honest, I've found little difference between them in terms of getting the photo I want, you soon learn how to get the camera to work for you. It seems to me that body language is more important; being relaxed, fitting in, acting casual etc.
From my own experience a 35mm loading of a Canon SLR is very fast. When loading (first manual rewinding) of a Leica M7 is not fast and the removing of the bottom plate is the least convieniece part. Loading a Cosina Voigtländer Bessa III 667 is very fast for a roll film camera due to the quick insert system and for roll film you do not have to rewind.
However for this 667 camera you have 10-12 pictures and with the Leica M7 36 pictures before changing film. The possibility for 220 roll film 20-24 exposures is very limited and even for the near future neglectible.
So:
1) Fast SLR camera.
2) Bessa III 667
3) Leica M7
I find it matters less if I use range finder camera or an SLR than if I don't make it obvious that a camera, like not hanging it round my neck, and using a wrist strap, keeping the camera in my hand, or hanging the camera over my shoulder under my coat and not putting up to you're eye unless you are going to use it.
My favourite focal length lens for street is 35mm, and focused on 15 ft with I.S.O. 400 and the shutter speed and aperture set for the hyper focal distance for the prevailing weather conditions there's no need to focus.
My favourite focal length lens for street is 35mm, and focused on 15 ft with I.S.O. 400 and the shutter speed and aperture set for the hyper focal distance for the prevailing weather conditions there's no need to focus.
Some people find it impossible to walk and load a M4 (to M7) camera, the baseplate or camera are too easy to drop, it is like juggling some people can do it, some cant. If you miss a kerb or similar, while you are walking nose, baseplate and camera may be damaged, etc. Loosing situation awareness is a risk in a crowd.
The late Canons e.g. VI to P to 7 series are easier the hinge back is not going to detach, and although the film end needs to be pushed into a slot, the remaining operations can be done blind (by feel) and allow walking. It is not quick loading like e.g. a Canonet f/1.7 QL.
Black or chrome does not seem to make a difference, when you are walking towards people, some are cautious about anything in your hand, so they will 'clock' any camera, they wont necessarily assume you are planning on photography.
If they and you are stationary, they will ignore you in general except for the curious.
Noel
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Depending on the situation and country you are, yes, it certainly is.
A RF is more accurate in the focus from W.A to about 100mm then a SLR. Also the weight is less then a SLR.
Even a medium format RF like the Bessa III 667 stops around 1kg.
For street photography you must be quick and a bit incognito. Therefore a RF camera.
A RF is more accurate in the focus from W.A to about 100mm then a SLR. Also the weight is less then a SLR.
Even a medium format RF like the Bessa III 667 stops around 1kg.
For street photography you must be quick and a bit incognito. Therefore a RF camera.
A big, autofocus SLR making emitting all types of whirring, beeps, burps and buzzes with a big zoom on the front? Yeah, it tends to draw attention to the person behind the camera.
There are certainly differences in the way people perceive cameras:
I went for a walk with a friend who had a large AF SLR with a big, fast zoom. I had and old (though massive) SLR and sometimes used FLs which were much longer than my friend's zoom.
Moral of the story: People visibly cringed when my friend pointed her camera in their direction. No-one seemed to notice me.
With 120 format, one also has to move the old film reel to the takeup position. In many cases, that isn't slow.
My own experience with 120 film is various folders, various TLRs, Koni-Omega, Kiev 60, and Pentax 6x7. All of these (except maybe the Rolleiflex TLR) take much longer to load than my Leica M6.
Removing the bottom plate on an M isn't ideal, but becomes a matter of habit. As I said, the loading times on my M6 are the same or 1-2 seconds longer than with other classic SLRs (Nikon F, F2, FM, Leica & Rolleiflex SLRs,
ect.)
More likely annoy people.
Nowadays no one likes to have a big AF SLR or DSLR pointed at them.
Too bad I have no experience with street photography nor with RF cameras, but I've had bits of documentary photography and my small OM-1 has served me well, I've caught few scenes of people in their habit and they didn't bother.
Too bad I have no experience with street photography nor with RF cameras, but I've had bits of documentary photography and my small OM-1 has served me well, I've caught few scenes of people in their habit and they didn't bother.
Not I.
But your appearance counts as well. How you present yourself to other people really matters...
But for his photos, I don't think a quiet camera was always necessary. Some or many of his photos were shot in situations he was visible to other people. Sometimes, he was communicating with the people in front of his camera and clicking the shutter. You can tell he wasn't always sneaking behind them.
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