Tetenal E6 Kit for Kodak E100VS and Fuji Velvia 50

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All,

I develop b/w and C-41 and would like to try the E6 kit from Tetenal, just looking for some field experience and things I should think about before I start:

- I use 120 film; Kodak E100VS and Fuji Velvia 50 and develop in a JOBO CPE2 Processor.
- I always overexpose both films +1 stop (leaving out snow pics here

So, with this information, can I just follow the instructions that come with the Tetenal E6 kit? Or do I need to adjust development times when I overexpose and how much? Any other tips from E6 developers?

Thanks!

 

[Chris Bronson]

I rate RVP50 at 40 ISO and use 7'30" for the FD with the CPE2. The chemicals are at 38°C and the water bath is at 39°C. I don't have any experience with E100VS but Jobo recommends 6'30" FD for non-Fuji films. Depending on the results you want add 2' to push 1 stop and reduce 2' if you wish to pull 1 stop. I hope this helps.

 

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Just found this link:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

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Maybe someone could clarify this point here, not sure if this is correct or not, according to the Tetenal E6 Kit Manual:

For rotary processing equipment: pre heat to 39 °C/102 °F and first developer
time = 7 mins.

I read several threads here at APUG, but not really helpfull.

When use for 2-4 rolls, I stick to 7.00 for first developer at 39°C of just 6:45min at 38°C?

Not looking for the 'best' results, just an acceptable starting point and then I can adjust things later on in the next delevopment runs.

 

[Chris Bronson]

Preheating means that the water bath should be at 39°C to bring the tube to temperature. The chemicals should be at 38°C. The best way to find out is to try.

 

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Well, what I don't understand is that JOBO recommends different times for Kodak and Fuji, but Colortec/Tetenal doesn't.

 

[wildbill]

I'm not sure why you over expose those films a stop but if it works for you, then so be it. If I did that, I'd have unusable results. My results (I use a calibrated spot meter) have detail everywhere they should with either lab processing or diy and kodak chemicals. I use kodak's published times (6-7 minutes so I use 6.5) for any e6 film that happens to be in the drum at the time, no different times.

 

[pukalo]

I just developed 3 rolls last night (two Velvia 100F and one E100VS) using the Tetenal kit, and results came out fantastic. I hand develop in a Paterson tank at 38C and 6'15 as per the instructions that come with the kit, and results were perfect. Get the kit, and the manual explains the adjustments you need to make. If you want purposely over exposed results, I believe you need to add 2 mins to the times listed.
Also, I had read about the need for longer times with Fuji films from old posts (10+ years back), but the Tetenal manual lists the same times for all films, and I found this to be true. Absolutely no difference, perfect exposures, and the films can be run together, as I did last night (3 rolls in the tank run at same time).
Howver, the manual also states that times and temps may need to be adjusted according to the equipment used. JOBO in particulr seems to require more.

 

[Roger Cole]

Why would the Jobo require more? If anything I'd think the continuous agitation would require less time. The only reason I can think of would be solution exhaustion from too low quantity, but you can always use more than the minimum required to cover the film.

 

[guyjr]

That is interesting re: time differences between Kodak / Fuji film bases. I've always done 6:30 with Kodak films, and 7:30 with Fuji, using the old Kodak E6 six bath kit (and now Fuji Hunt E6 six bath kit). I guess it is a moot point now for Kodak films, but for Fuji, I've never had a case where I would consider the output to have been pushed a stop by running the process at 7:30, and I always rate my Velvia 50 at 32, 100 at 64. If anything, they still come out a bit underexposed, but there is enough shadow detail where I'm happy.

 

[Roger Cole]

It isn't moot. I still have about 20 rolls of 35mm Ektachrome, probably half a dozen in 120, and a nearly full 50 sheet box of 4x5 I just opened and loaded the first six sheets into my grafmatic. People will be processing Eltachrome for a good while yet. Some is still available from dealers.

 

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I just developed 3 rolls last night (two Velvia 100F and one E100VS) using the Tetenal kit, and results came out fantastic. I hand develop in a Paterson tank at 38C and 6'15 as per the instructions that come with the kit, and results were perfect. Get the kit, and the manual explains the adjustments you need to make. If you want purposely over exposed results, I believe you need to add 2 mins to the times listed.

I am not looking for over-exposed results Just 'normal' results as a baseline for the first development run.

So if I understand correctly, you developed both Fuji Velvia and E100VS and both the same development time at 6:15? Is that with pouring developer in and out included, so 6.15 exact at the time the film makes contact with the developer?

 

[pukalo]

I am not looking for over-exposed results Just 'normal' results as a baseline for the first development run.

So if I understand correctly, you developed both Fuji Velvia and E100VS and both the same development time at 6:15? Is that with pouring developer in and out included, so 6.15 exact at the time the film makes contact with the developer?

Yes, that is 6:15 from the moment of beginning to pour in, to the last pour out. So, at 5:45 I began pouring out, as it takes me approx 30 seconds to pour back into the bottle.

However, do a little experimenting on your firts roll or two. You can err a bit and still get good results. When I first began home developing using the Kodak kit, they do not recommend a pre-wet step at the beginning to get the temperature up, and results were slightly dark/under exposed. So I started to omit the pour in and pour out times from the timing, effectively increasing FD time, and got good results with normal exposure. However, later began doing the pre wet on PE's advice, both with Kodak and Tetenal and found that fixes the time issue also. It preheats the film, and you can then include both pour in and out times against the total time recommended in FD.

 

[pukalo]

With JOBO, for my firts run, I would not count the pour in/pour out times towards the 6:15, as JOBO is known to under develop in some cases. Run only 1 roll your firts time. Worst case, it may be slightly lightened, but again, being "off" 15-30 seconds will not ruin your slides,you will be suprised how resilient the process is. Remember, it takes 2 full minutes to over develop by 1 step, so 15-30 seconds variation is less than 1/4 stop - very subtle difference, even with slide film.

Also, dont panic if you pull your slides out and they look way too dark. this is normal when the film is wet and firts comes out of the tank. As it dries, it lightens and will have normal exposure.

Final note - why are you shooting your slide film at 1 stop over exposure? If so, 6:15 will be way too long. Shoot at normal iso, and develop at normal times, both with Fuji/Kodak and Tetenal chems. If its becuase of your Jobo results, something is seriously off with it. Replace it or get a hand tank.

 

[Roger Cole]

Some people shoot Velvia 50 at 40. That does seem to work well for it. All other slide film I've always personally shot at box speed unless deliberately pushing (and I remember the days when the conventional wisdom was that it pushed much better than negative film which now seems the opposite of the c.w. - I did it and it worked pretty darned well, though.)

 

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However, do a little experimenting on your firts roll or two. You can err a bit and still get good results. When I first began home developing using the Kodak kit, they do not recommend a pre-wet step at the beginning to get the temperature up, and results were slightly dark/under exposed. So I started to omit the pour in and pour out times from the timing, effectively increasing FD time, and got good results with normal exposure. However, later began doing the pre wet on PE's advice, both with Kodak and Tetenal and found that fixes the time issue also. It preheats the film, and you can then include both pour in and out times against the total time recommended in FD.

Thanks. I am still a bit confused on the pre-wet step. Do I warm up the empty tank in 39c or do I fill the tank before development with warm water and run this for a few minutes in the JOBO machine?

Also, dont panic if you pull your slides out and they look way too dark. this is normal when the film is wet and firts comes out of the tank. As it dries, it lightens and will have normal exposure.

Final note - why are you shooting your slide film at 1 stop over exposure? If so, 6:15 will be way too long. Shoot at normal iso, and develop at normal times, both with Fuji/Kodak and Tetenal chems. If its becuase of your Jobo results, something is seriously off with it. Replace it or get a hand tank.

Good info, too! Good to read about the 15-30 seconds not messing up my slides, I never really had much troubles with C-41 in the JOBO, but soon 1st time E6.

About shooting my slides/film at +1 over exposure, for some reason when I shoot at boxspeed (after I measured light), I always end up with slightly under exposed images. I (for some reason) always put +1 stop when shooting color (C-41 and E6) and the range is so big that, especially with E6, when underexposed I can hardly correct anything in Photoshop (I use a scanner). So then I choose rater 'over' exposed than under exposed, easier to correct with slides and scanner.

I shoot with Pentax Super ME/MX (built in light meter and do +1 stop), Mamiya 7 (built in light meter and do +1 stop) and when measuring by hand with my Gossen I do an extra stop. So I rate E100VS at iso 50 and Velvia 50 at 25 and everything always came out very nice. At least, at the Photo Academy I never had any of the teachers say that I had crappy results.

But, yesterday I was shooting slidefilm on my Cambo and rated the E100VS at 64 and on my Mamiya 7 I shot Velvia 50 and rated at 40. So I followed some advice here and I want to see how my slides will come out this time.

Another question, do not want to open a new topic. When I develop slides in the JOBO drum processor, it says on the JOBO site I need about 33ml per slide, so 5 slides is 165ml of developer, can anybody confirm this about the 33ml per 4x5 slide?

 

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So, first 2 slides came out pretty nice, they look a bit underexposed indeed, but this should clear up after they are dry?

JOBO is currently running for the second batch