Tetenal e-6 Stabilizer residue

[mad52]

Recently I see a nasty residue on my processed film, though I triple squeegee it. In my investigation, I've noticed that the tank I keep my stabilizer in has a goldish residue at the bottom... obviously that's the problem. Anyone else ever see this problem (this mix is almost 6 months old!)?? My 3-batch is still working fine (26 rolls) so I'm hesitant to mix a new batch of stab. Maybe I should just use Photo-Flo? thanks

 

[koraks]

Scum is obviously not good. I'd mix up a fresh batch of stabilizer. Photoflo alone is not a substitute for E6 stabilizer I understand.

 

[mad52]

Thanks... If I mix up fresh stabilizer, I've gotta mix fresh 3-bath. Hoping to avoid until necessary!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Kodak and Fuji reversal films need Formaldehyde in the final stabilizer. See the sticky thread here on this subject, with formulas.

PE

 

[mad52]

Kodak and Fuji reversal films need Formaldehyde in the final stabilizer. See the sticky thread here on this subject, with formulas.
How to make a formalin stabilzer? Easy! Mix up Photo Flo 200 as directed on the bottle. To one liter of this add 3 - 10 ml of 37% Formalin solution. That is it. The reason for the spread is that I have found several formulas with values like that. I use 10 ml to be on the safe side.
PE

Ah, perfect! THANKS I guess formelin is the same as fermaldehyde? https://www.amazon.com/Formaldehyde-approx-grade-shipped-states/dp/B01LO8GOQ0/
I notice they have "high purity" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOAA6G8 Is this better? Is methanol a problem?
Any idea where the residue/scum at the bottom of my Tetenal stabilizer came from?

 

[mshchem]

My experience with Tetenal's final rinse is the same. IIRC correctly the stabilizer comes as a crystals. I had little white crystals form on my dry film. Not sure if Flexicolor (C-41)final rinse is appropriate but it's easy to find and cheap.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Formalin = Formaldehyde. It comes in a variety of strengths, but is always mixed with Methanol to stabilize it. Purity levels are not really a problem here.

And yes, solid versions of a stabilizer with a solid form of Formalin is often difficult to dissolve or keep in solution. Trioxymethylene comes to mind.

PE

 

[mad52]

Thanks for your quick, excellent answers! Glad I found the right forum I'll order the UPC grade from Amazon.
BTW, I found this: It is the addition of methyl alcohol that causes the substance to be called formalin as opposed to formaldehyde.

 

[Photo Engineer]

You are quite welcome. I'm happy to try and help.

PE

 

[mad52]

And : "If used, then contamination can cause deterioration of stabilzers, but you can see this in the form of 'slugs' or threadlike 'things' in suspension in the stabilzer. This is either bacteria or bits of gelatin that come off in the stabilzer and can cause problems. If bacteria (or mold or fungus) it indicates that the formalin content is deteriorating through use or contamination."

Now I know where the "residue" was coming from. Photography has led me to a lot of interesting places... now it's chemistry class!

 

[Rudeofus]

Everyone seems to have issues with final rinses regardless of manufacturer and mixing ratio. I would like to draw everyone's attention to this thread in the B&W forum here. The final two pages spell out a solution to these dreaded drying marks. Note: for color film we will need a mixture of Formalin and Isopropanol.

 

[mad52]

OK, now I see isopropyl alcohol in the formula (which I've seen mentioned in other posts)... thoughts? thanks

 

[koraks]

For stabilization of the dyes, formalin is the practical way to go. IPA is not effective in this respect (nor was it ever claimed to be, just to be clear), although it can help with drying and preventing drying marks. However, I personally use a photoflo equivalent or dishwasher shine.

 

[Photo Engineer]

IPA may not be good for color films. It might be able to extract the dyes or stabilizers from the film. Use Ethyl Alcohol or Everclear if you must. Do NOT use any liquid intended for washing dishes or hands.

PE

 

[mad52]

Thanks again. I guess I will stick with the Photoflo (5ml/1 litre distilled water)/Formelin(10ml/1 litre) formula.

 

[Photo Engineer]

OTOMH, IDK if it is 5 ml/L of Photo Flo. Please check the instructions.

PE

 

[mad52]

1:200 for Photoflo 200, so that would be 5ml per 1000 ml??

 

[Photo Engineer]

Ok.

 

[Rudeofus]

I have tried some different "final rinse" liquids, including Ilford's Ilfotol, Tetenal's STAB and some cheap wetting agent. Regardless of brand name they all leave drying marks on my film strips (color and B&W), and in many cases these drying marks are strong enough to affect the scanning or printing process. It would surprise me a great deal, if suddenly out of nowhere Kodak's PhotoFlo came around and solved this problem.

That other thread in the B&W forum provided an explanation and rationale for these wetting agents and final rinses, and they do make sense in those rare cases where deionized water is unavailable. I have two more exposed rolls of Fomapan 100 sitting in my fridge, eagerly waiting for development and then final rinsing in deionized water plus 99% IPA. I shall report back here.

 

[mshchem]

If you can't find Fuji Pro 6 final rinse this is what I would use

https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-rinse-replenisher-tm-5-liters-8673170

 

[Raphael]

Hi,

I never encountered such problems with E6 Stabilizer in Tetenal E6 3-Baths, even with the relatively "new" formulation (the Stab is stinking a lot less formaldehyde since the first kit I used ) of it. And I used a lot since years. It's working remarkably well, for me, no trace nor residue.
Are you using demineralized/deionized/purified water to prepare all your working solutions ?

However, it seems you mix in a different way than I do : I mix only the concentrate for making, say, 500 ml of stabilizer, and process 6 films with it (if you use a now unavailable 5L kit), and dump it (or rather of course, recycle to my hasardous waste disposal). IMHO, working this way reduces greatly risks of contamination of the whole stabilizer batch..

Regards,

Raphael

 

[destroya]

Hi,
....
However, it seems you mix in a different way than I do : I mix only the concentrate for making, say, 500 ml of stabilizer, and process 6 films with it (if you use a now unavailable 5L kit), and dump it (or rather of course, recycle to my hasardous waste disposal). IMHO, working this way reduces greatly risks of contamination of the whole stabilizer batch..

Regards,

Raphael

that is how I do it as well. Mix up what I need for the day, usually 800ml and then dump when done. I also only use distilled water to mix it. never had any drying marks on my film. I do the same for c41 and B&W

 

[Skeeterfx20]

I have not had any issues with the Tetenal Stabilzer either. In fact I just processed four rolls over the weekend and just went back and checked them. I just mixed the chemicals this weekend. I bought this last kit back around October last year. In fact I bought 5 2.5 L kits at the same time. I have no residue on any of the rolls.

I mix it in 500ml batches and use it all in a week. I don't do anything special when mixing I just follow the directions. In addition I use we water with just a softener and filters on the house water system.

I don't know what to tell you, I process about 4 to 6 rolls every weekend.

 

[halfaman]

I have noticed that Tetenal C-41 Stab has to be squeezed more thoughly than others in order not to have marks, even using distilled water.

I have tried some different "final rinse" liquids, including Ilford's Ilfotol, Tetenal's STAB and some cheap wetting agent. Regardless of brand name they all leave drying marks on my film strips (color and B&W

For B/W I use Rollei RWA SC. The instructions says clearly to don't squeeze the film after rinse and I never had any kind of marks at all using desionized water. Very good product and last for ages due to 1+1000 dilution.

https://s3-eu-central-1.amazonaws.com/ni-sw-mahn/media/pdf/70/db/5b/RWA12_datenblatt_e.pdf