Testing Kentmere 200 with D23 1+1

[npl]

I don't know that you can buy a darkbag manufactured today that's actually light tight. Use with caution in a dim room.

Not exactly today, but the Paterson bag I bought about four years ago hasn't given me problem so far https://patersonphotographic.com/product/paterson-changing-bag/

 

[mshchem]

Not exactly today, but the Paterson bag I bought about four years ago hasn't given me problem so far https://patersonphotographic.com/product/paterson-changing-bag/

I will get one on order when B&H comes back online Saturday evening. Thanks for the info!

 

[snusmumriken]

Two things:

1. In my experience, changing bags easily leak light around the elastic wrist cuffs. Make sure you wear enough on your arms to give a good tight fit. And remove your wristwatch if it has luminous points!
2. The 160 ISO negatives clearly have better shadow detail, and that ISO may give you better results in general. But that conclusion is founded on how your camera metered your test scenes, as others have pointed out. Look into how your camera’s meter is claimed to work (eg centre spot, centre weighted, multi-point averaging, etc) and think about the kind of scenarios that would be likely to fool it into unhelpful exposure choices. There’s always a smart way of working with whatever system you’ve got.

 

[mshchem]

Not exactly today, but the Paterson bag I bought about four years ago hasn't given me problem so far https://patersonphotographic.com/product/paterson-changing-bag/

I was able to order a Paterson bag. People give very positive feedback, only complaint is that the elastic is tight, kinda has to be tight, right

 

[dcy]

Two things:

1. In my experience, changing bags easily leak light around the elastic wrist cuffs. Make sure you wear enough on your arms to give a good tight fit.

Will do!

1. The 160 ISO negatives clearly have better shadow detail, and that ISO may give you better results in general. But that conclusion is founded on how your camera metered your test scenes, as others have pointed out. Look into how your camera’s meter is claimed to work (eg centre spot, centre weighted, multi-point averaging, etc) and think about the kind of scenarios that would be likely to fool it into unhelpful exposure choices. There’s always a smart way of working with whatever system you’ve got.

This is what the PetaPixel review says for this camera:

"The light meter is based on a partially center-weighted averaging metering and therefore does a good job when light levels are even across the frame. It will struggle the same way that a vintage manual film camera will when it comes to predominantly light or dark-toned scenes as well as compositions containing bright light sources towards the camera. New users to the analog experience may have to put in some effort to learn how to predict when the meter will struggle and apply the right amount of exposure compensation."

From an earlier discussion with Matt, I've learned that, because the light meter likes to make everything 18% so if (for example) I'm photographing something like pure white snow, and I need to add exposure otherwise the camera will try to make the snow come out yucky muddy gray.