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testing film without a densitometer?

Flooded woodland

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djkloss said:
I shot a roll of 35mm PlusX - mfg suggested ISO -
Using a gray card taped to a wall I started with a blank frame (lens cap on) (in the shade) then the meter reading of Zone V, then IV, III, II, I, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X. I was planning on experimenting with this and then once I learn how to plot, I can do some more in-depth testing.
-Dorothy

Hi Dorothy. You don't need a gray card, or metering by yourself, if your camera has automatic exposure.

Set the iso on your camera to 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 250, 125, 64, 32, 16 and 8. Take a frame at each setting, letting the choosing of aperture/speed to the camera. She'll try to expose every one of them as a middle gray (close to zone V, depending on your camera meter), for the iso you've set. The result will be a series of negatives from about zone 0 to zone IX.

Unfocus your camera for the test, and be sure the wall is evenly illuminated. Be aware of reciprocity issues on slower than 1/2s speeds.

Take a density reading from each of the negs, and plot them as the Y values on a graph. The X values will be in multiples of 0.3, as every neg has a one stop difference from the other.

The curve obtained is fine to get a contrast index and overall shape of the curve. To get more precision, do the iso hopping in 1/3s, instead of full stop. The X values will be multiples of 0.1. You'll have three times more datapoints to process.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
djkloss said:
Is it possible to use a different method?

I can't think of any. I've a Tobias TB+ transmission
densitometer and an Ilford EM-10. The EM-10 measures
the amount of light transmitted through a negative by
an enlarger onto the easel.

The EM-10 needs calibration using a 21 or 31 step Step
Tablet. I'm about to recalibrate. I'll likely stop at about a
density of 2. Anything more would be completely blown
highlights. Negative readings are to be taken under
exact same conditions as was the calibration. Dan
 
I agree with those who use the scanner and step wedge method, it has worked for me as well.

Good Luck!
 
Here is a post I made on rec.photo.darkroom years ago on calibrating a CDS cell for a denisitometer. Though I am not sure of the absolute accuracy, it is repeatable, and was very useful in providing a measure of contrast and film speed. You may need to try out different CDS cells (with different resistance / light characteristics). With mine, the resistance was about 5 k-ohms when the enlarger is wide open and set to a height for approximately an 8X10 inch print.

**************************************************************

Using a CdS cell as a densitometer.

Required materials:
- CdS cell (about $2.00, even at Radio Shack inflated prices)
- Enlarger
- Digital multimeter, whose resistance measurement is accurate in the
megohm range.


Schematic:
- There really isn't one. Put the multimeter in resistance measurement mode
and connect the leads to the CdS cell.


Measurement considerations:
- Turn all room lights off;
- Be careful of enlarger reflections off clothes/walls etc.
- For low light levels, the CdS cell response is slow. Allow sufficient
time for the cell to stabilize.


***************************************************************************
Calibration:


The intensity of light hitting a CdS cell is proportional to the log of the
resistance. In photography terms, doubling the intensity of light equates to
an increase in intensity of about 0.301 (or the log of 2). This is the
density scale on the Y-axis of densitometer curves.


How can the CdS be calibrated so that:
density = log( resistance ) * K


where K is a constant such that doubling the light will result in an
increase of 0.301.


In doing this, the CdS cell may be used as a densitometer.


Fortunately, if you need a densitometer, you likely have an enlarger which
can be used as an calibration instrument. Every f/stop provides an "intensity"
increase of 0.301, as it to doubles the light for opening one complete stop.
Likewise, every half-stop will increase the intensity by 0.5 * 0.301.
By placing the CdS cell under the enlarger, measuring the resitance at all
the f/stop openings and doing some math, one will be able to calibrate the
CdS cell.


(1) (2) (3) (4)


Log of
Enlarger Rel Log CdS Cell CdS Cell
Aperture Exposure Resistance Resistance
k-ohms
2.8 1.51 13.74 1.14
2.8/4 1.35 17.50 1.24
4 1.20 22.30 1.35
4/5.6 1.05 28.30 1.45
5.6 0.90 37.00 1.57
5.6/8 0.75 46.80 1.67
8 0.60 60.80 1.78
8/11 0.45 80.10 1.90
11 0.30 106.90 2.03
11/16 0.15 146.50 2.17
16 0.00 193.60 2.29


The data in column (2) is constant and should be treated as the Y-axix.
For the apertures shown, measurements should be made as in column (3).
These measurements will depend on the cell, enlarger light/housing and
magnification etc. The data in column (4) is simply the log of column (3).
Column (4) is the X axis.


With column (2) data and column (4) data, derive the slope using:


1. Linear regression;
2. -or- plot the data points on graph paper, draw the "best" line and
measure the slope (delta Y divided by delta X)


In both cases, change the sign to positive. Ignore the constant (y intercept)
as this will be eliminated when measuring film base plus fog.


From the data above, the following equation is generated.


Rel. Log Exposure = log(CdS Cell resistance) * 1.31


nb. the correllation coefficient should be very close to 1
(This data results in 1.00).


Thats is for calibration!
****************************************************************
To make a test film:


I meter on a white sheet of paper and photograph it with a paper
indicating the exposure (eg -4 stops)


Then, I take a photo of the sheets at
-6, -5, -4, -3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stops
Though recently, I'm using:
-6, -5.7, -5.3, -5, -4.7, -4.3....-2, 0, 2, 2.3, 2.7, 3....6 stops,
as this gives a better toe representation.


Once the film is developed, I take a sample of a blank negative, for the film
base plus fog, set the enlarger to get about a 5 to 10 k-ohm resistance reading
and record the value.


Then, for each negative, record the resitance and exposure.


Apply the equation to all these readings and subtract the film base plus fog
reading. Now, you have a densitometer curve for you film!


Plot this.


From here, I follow Ansel Adams (The Negative) recommendations for
determining the true film speed (0.1 density = zone 1) and the contrast (eg. N
).


Thats All!


If you try this, post the results. I wonder if all will have good results
like mine!
 
Speaking of wedges.

I wonder how hard would it be for manufacturers to print wedge along the perforation on 35mm rolls? Perhaps even with reference marks. That could simplify evaluation of film processing.
 
We used to generate step wedges on the edge of some graphic arts negatives to help in quality control. It is less practical in continuous tone consumer film because the latent image deteriorates.
 
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