Test Strip Printer

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RalphLambrecht

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Just for your information:

I received a few emails from people who were looking for the test strip printer design, which was previously posted on my site. This file is now available as a free download and sample chapter to Way Beyond Monochrome Ed2, and you'll find it here:

http://www.waybeyondmonochrome.com/WBM2/TOC.html
 

pentaxuser

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Folks as I said before this is the best test strip printer I have. Enjoy the article on Ralph's site then make the thing. You will not regret it.

Thanks Ralph

pentaxuser
 

Chazzy

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Someone who is handy with tools ought to make some of these and sell them on APUG.
 

Mike Wilde

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Someone who is handy with tools ought to make some of these and sell them on APUG.

Hand tools? I used off cuts of matt board and double sided tape to make mine based on Ralph's design. I taped it to a scrap of plywood to keep it from being inadvertently moved too easily.
 

resummerfield

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That's a wonderful design, Ralph! I first saw the plan in the first edition of Way Beyond Monochrome, but since I didn't have any 1/4-inch plastic at the time I made my copy from cabinet plywood. Yes, it is a little heavy, but it works perfectly. Thanks!
 

Steve Smith

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Someone who is handy with tools ought to make some of these and sell them on APUG.

Hand tools? I have a CNC drill/router at work which I may put up to the task!


Steve.
 

youngrichard

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Readers' Efforts request

I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of the different implementations. The heaviest I've seen was made of stainless steel.
Here is mine (Pic: TestStripOverview2). Made of 3 mm and 6 mm Medium Density Fibreboard. I raised the hinges with a shim of RC paper, to raise the flap the thickness of my usual paper (Pic: TSHinge)). I put in the recommended notches to facilitate shifting the paper the correct distance after each exposure, but found them unnecessary as I shift the paper with the safelight on; ruled black lines make this easy under vision (Pic: TSStrips)). The first shift is difficult with the paper abutting the edge of the frame, so I gouged a groove for the fingernail (Pic: TSNailCatch). I left an overhang at the left hand end of the flap (Pic: TSFlange); lifting the flap by hooking the left index finger under it is easier, I think, than grasping a knob on top. Finally, all my home made easels are 20 mm thick (for autofocus). A square of 6mm MDF and a Maplins stick-on 9 mm thick rubber foot (Pic: TSFoot) gives a height of 21 mm, not quite 20 mm but near enough not to affect focus for test strip purposes.
Richard
 

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pentaxuser

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Hand tools? I have a CNC drill/router at work which I may put up to the task!


Steve.


Steve knowing your skills in this area you'll find it kid's play and well worth the effort. I got mine done by someone with a laser cutter that cut plastic. Using pieces of both black and white plastic I find the paper slides easily and the guides for exposing each section a inch at a time show up very well.

pentaxuser
 

Steve Smith

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Well. I have a laser cutter too!


Steve.
 

Shadowtracker

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Thank you for the plans. I have a few more weeks of night school left but after that, I intend to make one of these. There is a board we have that is dark on one side, light on the other so I can use the same material and simply flip it over to use the lighter/darker side where I want it. I have always wondered if doing test strips "across the board" of the whole image was giving me good cues about the printing I want to get. The way you explained this and its use makes much more sense to me and allows me to pick where I want to get a test strip and therefor get an accurate starting point to my printing. Having a home darkroom, albeit small, works well but works better with efficient tools. This is one such tool that I intend to get some good use out of. Once again, thank you.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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I made something similar some time ago from foam-board and hot-glue.

I found the corks from sherry bottles (they have a 'bulb' on them) make good handles - just hot glue the cork end to anything that needs a knob.

Durst made a version that had a sliding cover over the exposure slot: the cover had a pin you pressed into the paper and this advanced the paper under the slot each time the cover was moved.
 
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