Tessar Compur shatter and aperture

Hello.
Can anybody just give some basic advices about sutter-aperture settings?
The speed 1/200
The aperture f.4.5 - 32
15 cm focus length

Do you really use a photometer for setting,or it is experience subject?
I still do not have one!
Can you please give 1-2 relation examples between speed-aperture for sunny day or a shadowy one.
I need some general examples just for my start experiment, using 9x12 film.
Thank you

One more variable must be considered to recommend an exposure: film speed.

OP, the "sunny 16" rule of thumb is, for bright daylight set aperture at f/16 and shutter speed at 1/film ISO. With ISO 100 film, f/16 and 1/100th. And so on. Adjust for deviations from bright daylight. Or get and use an exposure meter.

Experimenting with 9x12 film can be expensive. If you can, experiment with 35 mm.

This might help also:

You can use camera that has a built in lightmeter, analog or digital. Set it to the same ISO speed as the film and see what settings you get with the camera. Or you can use a smartphone with a lightmeter app.

See post #19

Dan Fromm said:

OP, the "sunny 16" rule of thumb is, for bright daylight set aperture at f/16 and shutter speed at 1/film ISO. With ISO 100 film, f/16 and 1/100th. And so on. Adjust for deviations from bright daylight. Or get and use an exposure meter.

Experimenting with 9x12 film can be expensive. If you can, experiment with 35 mm.

Click to expand...

Well there is no possibility to use other film except 9x12 ,and there is no build in photometer.
It is possible to find film 100 ,320 ,or 400
But im interested about 100 as an example

So for a shiny day aperture 16 and speed 100 like the film i have in use?
I guess for shadow with 100 i have to put it near to my limit at 32 or to use other film

Thank you, i will find a photometer in time as well.

You should seriously consider Dan’s excellent suggestion: learn the fundamentals of photography and exposure with 35mm first. You’ll learn more with less frustration.

To expand a little, Brian and Dan are suggesting you spend a little to buy a manual 35 mm camera if you don't have one (these can be had for under $50 -- a Kodak Pony 135 is a very good choice for this, but others in the same class are as good). You'll save the cost of the camera on film (compared to 9x12 at above a dollar a frame) by the time you really internalize the exposure triangle (aperture, shutter speed, ISO speed), how reciprocity works (f/11, 1/250 is the same as f/16, 1/125), and learn your way around developing (very strongly recommended for black and white -- it doesn't take much practice or equipment to do as good a job as a mail-out lab, and you'll save tens of dollars per roll; you can scan with a smart phone and a cardboard film carrier you can make yourself).

FWIW, I very often don't use a light meter -- but I've been using manual cameras in formats from 16 mm up to 4x5 over the past fifty years. When I started shooting adjustable cameras in 1972, with a newly acquired Pony 135, I metered every exposure with a newly acquired Gossen Sixtomat (which continued to work for me until I dropped it one time too many around 2005). Even after learning the Sunny 16 method (even today!), I still meter anything that isn't just a scene with an ordinary brightness range.

I see now!
Thank you once more Donald!