You have an early model, and it seems a buggy one at that. The 6008i and AF are excellent, reliable cameras with a very nice grip that makes handling quite good. After a while the original NiCad batteries do have a short life, but there is a battery-level icon in the viewfinder so it shouldn't catch you by surprise. The original packs are easily rebuilt with more modern batteries that hold a charge much longer and have a longer useful life. A lot of photos posted on Flickr are crap no matter the lens or camera used, I wouldn't use internet photos to judge a lens or camera. And the 6000 does not meter off the film plane, it meters on the mirror.
Really guys, the battery issue is a non issue with a new battery. I don't charge mine more than 2x a year.
It only meters flash that way. Through the lens metering is otherwise done by sensors on the mirror. And if you have a second back, there is no need to waste a frame using the flash metering feature. Just have one back loaded with the same emulsion and set the camera to not advance the film, take a metering exposure and change backs to make the final exposure--just remember to reset the film advance button. There was in fact a pair of dedicated metering backs (spot and average) made specifically for that purpose if you can find them.My 6001 Professional (to name it exact) meters off the film and this feature is called "flashmeter" on the camera body (can be switched on and off). It actually measures flash light, when a connected flash fires. This is the only valuable feature for me. It means, when you have a "dumb" flash, you sacrifice one frame for measurement in ME mode, you fond the right aperture, and your film is correctly exposed. I verified it and it works as advertised. Good feature.
I believe all the 6000 cameras use the same battery pack, and they can all be recelled easily. Why do you need to know the circuitry?But the battery you have is not the one I have. We all have different batteries today. I hate the fact that the camera circuitry is kept secret. Man can't event have a good advise of an electronic engineer whether the scheme will work, or whether it will always "float in uncertainty".
But the battery you have is not the one I have. We all have different batteries today. I hate the fact that the camera circuitry is kept secret. Man can't event have a good advise of an electronic engineer whether the scheme will work, or whether it will always "float in uncertainty".
But the battery you have is not the one I have. We all have different batteries today. I hate the fact that the camera circuitry is kept secret. Man can't event have a good advise of an electronic engineer whether the scheme will work, or whether it will always "float in uncertainty".
Eric or Key Camera in Colorado should be able to recell or maybe sell you a refurbished battery. As well as this fellow on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2351110384...TykoHjQ8mMd1k8KzjUBMMVXtg=|tkp:Bk9SR4LL_6HVYgI think guy who runs the Rollei website can fix you up with a new battery.
The official US dealer of Rolleiflex Cameras and Lenses including the new Hy6 Mod2 and FX-N TLR
Authorized dealer of Rolleiflex cameras and lenses including their newest flagship camera, the Rollei Hy6 Mod2, 6008AF and Integral cameras. We carry all fourrolleiflex.us
My 6001 Professional (to name it exact) meters off the film and this feature is called "flashmeter" on the camera body (can be switched on and off). It actually measures flash light, when a connected flash fires. This is the only valuable feature for me. It means, when you have a "dumb" flash, you sacrifice one frame for measurement in ME mode, you fond the right aperture, and your film is correctly exposed. I verified it and it works as advertised. Good feature. I also meant that ALL photos at Flickr which were made with the Rolleiflex 6000 series are only good for their respective owners and carry no artistic interest. And I have seen myself the images made with original Voigtlander Bessa (produced in the 50-ies of last century) which exhibited higher detail resolution than your average standard lens for 6000 system. How. Can. That. Be?
I save my pre-81 cents. Of course there was a time not that long ago when you could trade $20 worth of cents for a Double Eagle. Those were the days!
240 pence for a gold Sovereign
I save pre 1982 pennies and all nickels (currently worth 5.6 cents- only current coin trading at a discount). Long term, nickel and copper are heading up (nickels are 75% copper, 25% nickel). Some older Canadian nickels are pure nickel (1955-1981), and I have a few I bought for a premium on e-bay, but in the US you will likely rarely find one in circulation (I have occasionally gotten Canadian coins in circulation in the US).
It only meters flash that way. Through the lens metering is otherwise done by sensors on the mirror. And if you have a second back, there is no need to waste a frame using the flash metering feature. Just have one back loaded with the same emulsion and set the camera to not advance the film, take a metering exposure and change backs to make the final exposure--just remember to reset the film advance button. There was in fact a pair of dedicated metering backs (spot and average) made specifically for that purpose if you can find them.
Interesting enough, I looked up the specs for the 6001 Professional, and it seems an odd duck. It only has flash metering, no TTL reflected-light meter on the mirror and it lacks the auto-bracketing feature of all the other 6000 cameras. Yet it dates from 1998, about half-way through the 6000 series production life. It also came standard with the bright focusing screen like the later 6008AF and 6008 Integral 2.
As far as the Flickr examples, I would blame that on the user/poster. The quality of the photos from the 6000 cameras with either the Zeiss or Schneider lenses are among the best medium-format images I have seen.
Here's a quick sample:
View attachment 349319And a crop of the image:
View attachment 349320
To be precise, it also meters ambient light that way, because the thing functions without a flash connected. I will make tests with slide film and report the results, it is
I feel like I must bring in some corrections to your info. The 6001 measures the ambient light reflected off the film. I checked today and, with the aperture fully opened I changed the shutter speeds until two diods light up. Which means, the camera is trying to say that the exposition is correct. To do this, the "flashmeter" switch must be on. Also, the 6001 does have the bracketing mode, same as the 6008, I presume.
My 120 back is still rewinding the film! I checked today, sacrificing a fresh opened Agfa Scala and after the 5-th frame the film was wound up onto the taking spool. Hm, I must have shoot 6 film in this mode, which means, I must be having now 6 spools with 5-6 unexposed frames each because I don't have a habit of counting frames when I shoot... Anyone has experienced this kind of mixed feelings? Any ideas?
I am surprised that nobody has mentioned the tilting front of the SL66/66E , which makes it superior for close-ups and near/far landscapes.
Has anyone had experience with 70mm film backs? I am going to to try one on my 6001 if it is possible at all.
What I have discovered so far is very intriguing. The camera somehow knows whether the film is loaded or not. I have no idea yet, how it does, but, if it does it by means of the film magazine itself, then I am pretty sure it is being done in the most stupid mechanical way, prone to strange errors. I am saying this, because the 120/220 film magazines appear to be fully mechanical devices and to have no electric circuitry at all (except resistors in the ISO switch. When film is not loaded, the camera correctly fires single shots and exp. bracketing shots of 3 frames. But, when the film is loaded, after the 5-th frame, it starts rewinding more that 1 shot and does this exactly two times (which is enough to completely finish the roll).
The 70mm film backs appear to have their own motors. Maybe they have been designed more seriously. I tend to believe, my camera is sane, at least, it behaves normally.
Has anyone had experience with 70mm film backs?
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