Hello! I'm currently looking for any kind of tabletop processor in order to make RA4 color prints. Preferably one with temperature control and I'd like to avoid anything with drums if possible. I'm a college student and it took a lot of convincing to persuade my department to let me do color printing so the more automatic the processor, the better. I am still open to items like a jobo processor I honestly just need something in my budget. My budget is $800 but there's a little bit of wiggle room. Thank you in advance!
Want to Buy Tabletop Print Processor
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Before the Jobo tub processors, Jobo made a small small tabletop version without a tub but also without temp control for tank rotation. used ones must be still available for under $800.
First of all, welcome to Photrio!
I am glad they’re allowing you to do optical RA4 printing, I enjoy it.
Tabletop roller transport machines are tough to find as you already are certainly aware. Jobo is a possibility, but as you know they use drums, with all that entails. Other than using trays in total darkness the least expensive path forward (as you seem to know) would be the old drum and roller set up by Beseler, Unicolor, Cibachrome, etc.. It’s really not so bad. And with the sous vida machines these days temp control is a lot easier for the prebath and chemistry. Best of luck!
I may have one or two in the basement somewhere; I will take a look. What are you willing to spend?
My recommendation is a look for a slot processor. Or narrow 1 gallon stainless tanks with a water jacket (use 8x10 film hangers to hold sheets of 8x10 paper.
Roller transport machines are great but are designed to be production workhorses and need to be tended as such
Roller transport machines are great but are designed to be production workhorses and need to be tended as such
I forgot about these- I’ve never seen one, they seem to stay mostly in Europe. People seem to like them and the simplicity is nice.
The Nova slot paper processors are supposed to be coming back anytime now. They have a few different versions. I think it would be perfect for RA4.
https://www.theimagingwarehouse.com/Products/Nova-Print-Processors
https://www.theimagingwarehouse.com/Products/Nova-Print-Processors
I am on a bit of a tight budget due to being a student, so $800 would be my max.
Not sure how familiar you are with these machines. Need daily upkeep, even a small one requires cleaning, replenisher etc. I use a small Durst RCP-20, maximum width of paper is 8 inches. I use it only when I'm making a bunch of prints. Usually about half hour to mix and set up, followed by half hour cleaning and drying off the parts. You do not want to leave solutions in these machines overnight.
Need to use almost everyday, all day to justify.
MHOFWIW
A roller transport machine is honestly more of what I need. My photo department wants the chemicals as contained as possible. It would definitely work better for how much I'll be printing as well.
I'm not super familiar with the machines, but my teacher who plans to walk me through the RA4 process is. He actually specifically recommended to get a Durst processor as it's what he used to use and knows how to work with. But I'll keep this info in mind! Thank you!
These days, expect to pay at least this for an RCP20 - although some fetch even higher prices. It's a seller's market.
I had to convert my RCP20 from EP2 to RA4. I am lucky in the fact that my machine must have been purchased right before RA4 hit the market, in very nice shape. Like trying to find a 40 year old car with 5,000 own owner miles always been kept in a heated garage.
Secondhand Darkroom has a couple processors, £2500 and up, 2 bath, units with a dryer add another £500. Of course almost everywhere on Earth has 50 Hz power so there's that too.
Yes, the Durst Printo RA4 minimum system is relatively cheap. I purchased mine around 30 years ago, it still works very well.
As a bonus, you can also use it to process B&W RC paper.
You will need the Intro unit, and two tanks both equipped with Energy Mot motor units. Basically these units have an element that sits in the solution and heats up the bath, there is however the possibility that some of these electrical heating elements may be stuffed.
If you look very carefully over the entire element, look for cracks, especially where the element disappears into the motor unit. What seems to happen is that the element is lowered into the tank and as it is a tight fit, it can be caught up on something and it only takes a small amount of force to bend the element. A gently push back to straight is the fix; but if this is done multiple times, then the outer casing of the electrical element starts to crack and many of those with cracks eventually stop heating.
To test that the heating element works, fill the tank with water, then place the Energy Mot into the tank, add the second tank and do the same, then add the Intro unit, plug it in and doubly ensuring the tanks are full of water, switch it on.
If nothing moves, then immediately switch it off and check things out. What often happens is the the plugs attached to the motor units have a female and male plug, if these are not really snug, then power doesn't get to all the motors and it won't work.
They are really good units.
Whatever and however you test these units, doubly ensure the heating elements are inserted into water, they can self destruct within seconds.
As a bonus, you can also use it to process B&W RC paper.
You will need the Intro unit, and two tanks both equipped with Energy Mot motor units. Basically these units have an element that sits in the solution and heats up the bath, there is however the possibility that some of these electrical heating elements may be stuffed.
If you look very carefully over the entire element, look for cracks, especially where the element disappears into the motor unit. What seems to happen is that the element is lowered into the tank and as it is a tight fit, it can be caught up on something and it only takes a small amount of force to bend the element. A gently push back to straight is the fix; but if this is done multiple times, then the outer casing of the electrical element starts to crack and many of those with cracks eventually stop heating.
To test that the heating element works, fill the tank with water, then place the Energy Mot into the tank, add the second tank and do the same, then add the Intro unit, plug it in and doubly ensuring the tanks are full of water, switch it on.
If nothing moves, then immediately switch it off and check things out. What often happens is the the plugs attached to the motor units have a female and male plug, if these are not really snug, then power doesn't get to all the motors and it won't work.
They are really good units.
Whatever and however you test these units, doubly ensure the heating elements are inserted into water, they can self destruct within seconds.
They are. They are also exceedingly more scarce than the RCP's, which will reflect (strongly) in second hand prices. Also, I find they're more time-consuming to clean up, and they're far more delicate. The plastic on the Printo's becomes brittle, which results in numerous minor defects, most notably around the power connectors. They're nice in fully functional/pristine condition, and they do not suffer the roller problems the RCP's are prone to. So they each have their strengths and weaknesses. I find I generally use my RCP more than my Printo.
One other point. Tabletop is somewhat misleading. I use mine on a small platform over a 7 foot sink. This allows the prints to go from blix and drop into a large deep tray of water. It also makes draining the 2.5 L (this is the small RCP-20) of developer and blix a lot easier. Then for clean up having the unit in close proximity to a large sink makes washing up the roller assemblies and rinsing out the processor and pump much, much easier.
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