Bob F. said:...Contrast is generally a function of development rather than film exposure. Having said that, over-exposed film will have a higher contrast for a given development time...
smieglitz said:<snip>
As shadows gain too much exposure and the delicate highlights move further up the tonal scale with overexposure, contrast is reduced since the negative now does not produce a black tone where it should. The scale becomes very dark gray through white instead of black through white, and this is effectively a reduction in contrast in the final image.
Joe
shampoo said:Hello.
is anyone can give an advice,
how can i set the camera setting expose for T-MAX 100.
i had an experience that the contrast was usually very strong.
thanks in advance.
sha
huggyviking said:But underexposure normally increases contrast, mainly because you loose shadow detail.
Thom
huggyviking said:But underexposure normally increases contrast, mainly because you loose shadow detail.
Thom
WarEaglemtn said:You might find one problem with Tmax 100 even if you get the development & speed set where you want them. Its extended red sensitivity that 'helps' with darker skies is a pain in the backside when it comes to shadow detail. The reflected blue light often found in deep shadows outdoors is not predictable with TMax. You find at times your low zone placement of the shadows under bushes, in the trees & in shade of buildings may be lower than you planned due to the sensitivity of the film. Lose shadows as a result. It can be unpredictable. I love the TMax reciprocity but just couldn't live with shadows that were unpredictable with the passage of the sun across the sky.
Try running a test of the same subject with the changing daylight & see if you can meter & keep the shadows where you want them. I couldn't & changed to FP4+ as a result. Not perfect but at least now my shadow readings come out where I expect them to be.
Carol said:Thank you for reviving this thread as I had missed it and was about to ask the same question as the original post. I use T-Max100 as it is what is available to me. I was told to rate it lower and have done so. I always stick to the times and temps as advised. The problem I sometimes have is that if I get detail in the shadows, I lose detail in the bright areas, but I think that comes down to not bracketting. I know I should, but if the green light says the exposures right who am I to argue with it. Fancy trusting a led that doesn't even know what film is in the camera. I will do some experimenting with the next roll. I hate being such a slow learner.
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