
I have used, for the past 12 years, Delta 400 with a personal EI 200 developed in various two-bath developers with Thornton's being the only one for 8 years. For my work it is perfect.
This type of thread will generate loads of responses along the lines of mine and they will all be pointless because what I want to achieve in my prints will be different to someone else's.
The correct response is . . . If you want to produce images like mine then a 'modern' (lets face it this is now REALLY old technology) film is the best.
If you want images like Andersen or Moriyama then use Tri-X pushed and if you want images like Friedlander use Plus-X and if you want images that suit you, then use what suits your work.
One of the images on my website was shot using Tri-X developed in HC110 at dilution B. If you can identify it, I will send you a print in a window matt which is worth 420 (gallery price).
Bests,
David
www.dsallen.de
It doesn't matter. Not even a bit.
Either you're good at making photographs, or you're not. The film? Not worth thinking too much about.
Natural? Integrity? Grains in the same direction?? When you post things like this are you actually serious?
Films are as good as their users and poor workmen blame their tools. There aren't nay poor films available these days they are all cpable of excellent results once you tame them.
Ian
It doesn't matter. Not even a bit.
Either you're good at making photographs, or you're not. The film? Not worth thinking too much about.

It doesn't matter. Not even a bit.
Either you're good at making photographs, or you're not. The film? Not worth thinking too much about.
There is no film that is natural or has integrity. Closest thing might be moss on the north side of a tree.
I do not like these, don't consider them natural, they lack integrity and when a manufacturer attempts to put all the grains in the same direction, I believe they don't always succeed.
I suppose a good analogy would be is it OK to have a tooth filling or a face lift?
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