Super speed graphic

[Troy Ammons]

I am considering a super speed graphic and would like to hear from people, in general how do you like it.
Also from what I have read it has a graflok rotating back. Is this correct ??

I assume no back movements.

What are the front movements. I am especially interested in front tilt and rise/fall being separate.

What is up with the range finder ?? Is it internal ??

Is the Super graphic identical except for speed.

BTW, I have used a lot of other 4x5 cameras like a B+J press crown, older speed, misc rails etc.

 

[Dave Miller]

Have you check the site Speed Graflex ?

 

[Dave Parker]

I agree the web site Dave linked is just about the best source of information on the Graphic series of cameras, they have time lines, model descriptions, Etc.

Great resourch of information on this particular camera.

Dave

 

[nworth]

I found a Super Speed Graphic outfit a few years ago, and I'm glad I did. It's an excellent camera in the Speed Graphic tradition.

The usual lens is a 135mm f/4.5 Rodenstock Optar, a Tessar knockoff, which I have found to be excellent - very sharp.

The difference between the Super Graphic and the Super Speed Graphic is the shutter. The Super Speed Graphic comes with a Rapex 1000 shutter, which is a between the lens shutter with speeds up to 1/1000 second. This shutter retains its efficiency and accuracy even at the highest speeds. The Super Graphic shutter only goes to 1/500. AFAIK, the shutter is the only difference between the cameras. Neither camera has a focal plane shutter. On the super Super Speed, the shutter has an electrical release that is triggered by a button on the left side of the camera. It can also be triggered from a button on the flash through a cable with a connector on the right side of the camera (no unplugging the flash cables to close the camera!). One downside is that the shutter requires two 22.5 volt hearing aid batteries. They are hard to find and are expensive. It may be possible to adapt the camera to use four 12 volt medical device batteries. Fortunately, the batteries last a long time. The shutter also has a cable release socket. Another weird thing about this shutter is the way you cock it. You twist the lens hood (built in) to the right about 120 degrees (I haven't measured it). This is a quite robust mechanism and is probably quite fast for hand held press use. The lens hood unscrews to the left so that you can insert series VI filters. This could be a problem for polarizers, graded filters, or multiple attachments.

The back revolves and can be removed easily. The ground glass has a built in Fresnel screen, and the back has a built in viewing hood. This is like the older Speeds, but the hood looks less robust to me.

There are no back movements, and front movements are quite limited, although they are supposed to be a bit more than on the older Speeds. The drop bed is retained from previous models. The bellows and infinity stops are also similar to the older cameras, as is the flash bracket on the right hand side. The rangefinder and viewfinder (separate) are internal, at the top of the camera. The rangefinder cams are interchangeable for different lenses. The focusing scale is a large dial in the top part of the camera. It is linked to the rangefinder cam. There is one tripod socket (1/4 inch) in the bottom of the camera. I've found that the revolving back clashes with my (Bogen) tripod. The camera is very solid and rugged, in the Speed Graphic tradition.

I hope this helps. I've seen the manual for this camera on the web somewhere, but I'm not sure where. You might do a search for it.

 

[mgb74]

Here's one source for a manual: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/super_speed/super_speed.htm

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

My impression from the Graflex.org board is that the premium you are likely to pay for the 1/1000 sec. shutter on the Super Speed Graphic over the Super Graphic is likely not to be worth it. In order to achieve that speed, the shutter used nylon gearing which may or may not have held up over the years.

Even you do find a 1000 shutter in good condition, you might ask yourself how often you'll really use 1/1000 sec. for 4x5" with a normal lens given the speed of most LF lenses, short DOF, and the demise of Royal-X Pan.

 

[waynecrider]

My first camera was a Super Graphic and I wound up selling it after dipping my toes in LF, and or course when needing some cash as well, and I'm sorry I off'd it; At that time at least. Nowdays I would not buy one for what they are going for but would instead buy a camera with back movements. After shooting Graphics now for a least a few years, I don't see their benefit except as handheld shooters, of which I practiced and still do, and they may set up fast, but so does a Toyo AII. I say step up to slowing down and get an entry level field, which would turn over better in the market then a Graphic if you found the format not to your liking.

 

[Frank Petronio]

I think they are nice cameras for fast shooting and the cam system is easier than Linhofs. I had one with a 90 and 135, and probably should have kep it with a 270 tele to round it out. They are very rugged and great for leaving in the car so you have one ready to go.

 

[tim atherton]

Here's one source for a manual: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/super_speed/super_speed.htm

better to get one free:

http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/info/supergraphic/supergraphic.html

(stacks of old brochures on that site)

+ good Super graphic info here:

http://www.cameraquest.com/supergrp.htm

 

[RichSBV]

The batteries for the Super are most deffinitely not hearing aid batteries ;-) And they are readily available from MidWest. They last a long time as long as the capacitors in the camera do not leak. But there's a simple solution to that also...

Yes, all the info you could want has already been posted above.

I would add my thoughts as a Super user...

The advantages to a Super are deffinitely for hand-held usage. The rangefinder cams are also readily available from Midwest and easy to change. The Top viewfinder works very well. When hand-holding, it's much easier to rotate the entire camera than just the back (like any other rangefinder camera). On a tripod, rotate the back. The electric release is great to use. I've carried my Super all day long using a neck strap and hand shooting just like a 35mm. It's just a lot of fun, especially with Grafmatics...

The down side of Supers. The rangefinder will only work well with lenses from 90mm through 210mm. Graflex had made adpters to use up to the 15 inch tele and down to 65mm, but no one seems to even know they exist let alone able to find one... The Super lens boards needed to take advantage of the electric release are very difficult to find. I've been searching for a long time now... And to fully enjoy a Super, you have to find one with a top viewfinder, working electrics for the shutter release, and fully working rangefinder system. Not difficult to do, but many don't pay attention... If you find a lens/electric lensboard combo and want to use the side flash connector, you can buy a new flash cable for it, but it's a bit expensive from Paramount. I made my own for about $2.00...

Both my Supers came with changed, misaligned GG/fresnel (or no fresnel) focussing panels. Since the Super was originally designed to use a fresnel, this also has to be checked on a used camera...

The Super Speed and plain Super are identical except for the name and the Graflex 1000 shutter. I bought Super Speeds because I collect Graflex cameras and simply wanted one of the 1000 shutters. I don't use them. If they are properly CLA'd (by Fred Lustig), they are quite useable even at 1000 speed. I have no plastic gears in mine by the way. All brass & steel... I heartily recommend something like a Nikkor 135/5.6 as a replacement, although the stock 135 Optar is a fine lens.

As for the electric lensboards: If you don't mind doing without the electric release, brand new plain lensboards are also available from Midwest...

I like the Super a lot. I would never get rid of my Pacemaker Speed, but I use the Super.

Now if someone would just make new Super lensboards and come up with a powerful enough electric flash with a 1 1/12 inch round handle, I'd be a very happy camper...

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Now if someone would just make new Super lensboards and come up with a powerful enough electric flash with a 1 1/12 inch round handle, I'd be a very happy camper...

I'd think it wouldn't be too difficult to mount a Norman head (or Quantum or Lumedyne) on a 1-1/2" wooden dowel to give you all the flash power you need. I use a 200C setup with my Tech V, but instead of using the side mount, I use a bracket that holds the head over the lens axis.

If you want to get really tricky about it, I have seen examples Graflex 3-cell flash handles with the innards of a Norman LH-2 head stuffed inside and the Norman flashtube socket replacing the original flashbulb socket.

 

[RichSBV]

I hate to hijack...

Way back when, a Norman was suggested. I did a minor look into it and for some odd reasons went in different directions.

Right now I have sevral Honeywell 770's (GN 160) and a 780S (GN 180) and a Sunpak 622 Super (GN 220 I think) set up for the Graphics. The Sunpak had to have the clamps modified as the handle was too thick but it works okay.

The 770's at GN 160 are barely useable. The 780S isn't too bad, but on mine the Auto function doesn't work.

The Sunpak 622 is the best I have and even it is a little weak with some lenses, not to mention a bit large...

I could be remembering wrong, but I don't think the Norman 200 puts out any more light? And I tried to stay away from external power packs.

So, I'm spoiled and want the magic flash that is self contained, has a GN of at least 220, a 1 1/12 inch round handle and has an Auto exposure feature. I don't think that's too much to ask for? ;-)


I'm sure there are other alternatives, but searching the net for the details is tedious at best and no one ever mentions the handle diameter in descriptions.

Maybe, when the rest of my projects are done (right), I'll get around to gutting a good flash and making a tubular style out of it? Or I'll just find a box full of working Honeywells and be semi happy? If they ever did better then the 780S, I would be very happy...