sunny 16 versus camera meter

[markjwyatt]

I use s16 for bright open sun shots with FP4, HP5, Tri-X and others (talking mainly 35mm shooting). When the lighting starts to get tricky, I try and use a meter, but sometimes if I need to act fast I just have to make a best judgement, and usually do ok. Indoors (available light) I throw on an f1.8-f2 lens, shoot wide open, and use 1/15th to 1/60th depending on film and judged conditions and go with it. Sometimes I use a meter to help judge. Other than low light conditions, I generally have a medium Y or deep Y filter on (latter for sky/clouds), so overexposing a stop to be safe is not a good idea (especially with FP4). Generally, I find that I tend to be on the edge of underexposing, as if anything, I may lose some shadow detail. Generally I prefer that to losing the sky. If I want something in the shadow I will tend to open an extra 1/2-1 stop or so (depending on the depth of the shadow) or I will selectively meter.

 

[eli griggs]

Yes, the film makers did/do no expect you to leave out your judgment and experience, based on what sort of negative density you end up with. More density ensures that there is enough information in the image to be able to print with, thus any 'over exposure' within the rational, reasonable range of the film increases the odds that you will have enough information/image to print with and make a good image.

Under exposure, ie, F16, means that data/details are lost, because they were never given enough volume of light to be 'seen' by the film.

You can no print what is no there, n`est pas?

I will also suggest you rate your colour negative film, at one third of a stop (F -1/3) less in setting your iso/asa settings or have your camera set to over compensate by that measure.

You will, generally enjoy, richer colour saturation and can see for yourself by bracketing your first few rolls of colour film by that much.

Remember, colour film is no B&W, and your kit will also influence exposures, so seek out the advice of seasoned photographers and darkroom printers and adjust as needed, only one change at a time, until you find the things that work for you and increase your 'strengths in Analog Photography.

IMO

 

[foc]

When shooting colour negative film (C41) I have always shot at box speed and used a reflective meter reading or if stuck sunny 16 rule.
When shooting colour transparency film (E6) I found an incident light reading to be best.

If you wish to use the best metering for a shot, whatever film you are using, then I would suggest learning how to use an incident light meter.

I learned to use the sunny 16 rule as a teenager simply because I could not afford a light meter. But it was a very good teacher. Even after I had builtin lightmeters, I used to guess the exposure and then take the light reading and see was I accurate or not.

Guess what? I would say I was 99% of the time correct.