Suitable 110 camera for hand-rolled films

[lamerko]

Hello,
I'm relatively new to sub-miniature formats. I have a few Minolta 16, I also picked up a Mamiya 16 that I have yet to play with.
However, I am now on wave 110 format. I have a dozen old films - 100 and 200 ASA cassettes. I'll try to open them without destroying them or cutting my hands. I have quite a lot of 16mm film stock - most are perforated on one side, but I also have microfilm without perforation. I would like to rewind my film manually, but I am quite confused by the information on the internet. I can't figure out what camera I need to get to be able to use this kind of film. Many of the cameras seem to look to the perforation for exact frame position, which seems to make them unsuitable. I've come across a bit of conflicting information about the Pentax Auto 110. It seems that moving the lever twice will make enough space between two shots without being confused by the perforations (or lack thereof). Also uses LR44 batteries which are easy to find. ISO settings are confusing. According to the information, Pentax uses ISO 80 and 320 as settings, but there are no such cartridges. I see factory labeled 110 film 64, 100, 200 and 400 ISO. How will the cartridges be accepted in this Pentax? Most of my cartridges are marked as ISO 200...
I understand that one can manually modify the shifter cartridge, but how? And if I want to use 200 ISO film, how should I go about it? And with the low-speed microfilms, what is the procedure?

 

[ic-racer]

Stick with the 16mm cameras, ha ha

 

[xkaes]

All the information you need is over at the SUBCLUB. It covers the differences between 110 cassettes, how to reload them, how to determine if your 110 camera can use reloaded film -- and what types. It's WAY too lengthy to discuss here, but I'm sure some will try. With some 110 cameras, to use reloaded cassettes, you need to modify the cassette, the camera, or BOTH.

Keep in mind that there are different versions of the Pentax SLR 110. The SUBCLUB covers the differences too.

http://www.subclub.org/darkroom/rollown.htm

 

[lamerko]

Stick with the 16mm cameras, ha ha

Obviously, there is no perfect sub-miniature camera.
When I decided to try this format, based on information from the Internet, I decided to buy Minolta 16, second version. Awesome, all metal and solid, fully mechanical and with a cartridge designed for manual refilling. A surprisingly bright lens and a large range of speeds. And it can also use any 16mm film stock, regardless of perforation and light sensitivity. It sounds wonderful. I have four of these cameras. But... only one thing spoils the idyll - the fixed focus at 9ft. Why?!! And more annoyingly - in the first version the fixed focus is at 15ft. Why isn't it like 30ft? Yes, there is a MYSTIC filter #0 - so mystical that it was apparently even 50-60 years ago. I like these cameras, as I mentioned - I have four of them, but... 9ft?
I also took the more modern Minolta 16 MG-S - with a promisingly large frame. I haven't tested it yet, maybe I'll have to do some maintenance on it. The situation with focus is the same.
I decided to try a non-fixed focus camera - after some searching, my choice was the Mamiya 16 Automatic. It looks very interesting, but I haven't tried it yet, maybe this weekend. A problem with Mamiya seems to be the cartridges. It just... doesn't.

So I decided to try the 110 format as well. True, the 110 cartridges are not intended for reuse, there is a relatively large abundance of them. There seem to be quite a few cameras with focus control, and the frame is nicely large. Of course, over-automation and simplification lead to quite a few limitations…

All the information you need is over at the SUBCLUB. It covers the differences between 110 cassettes, how to reload them, how to determine if your 110 camera can use reloaded film -- and what types. It's WAY too lengthy to discuss here, but I'm sure some will try. With some 110 cameras, to use reloaded cassettes, you need to modify the cassette, the camera, or BOTH.

Keep in mind that there are different versions of the Pentax SLR 110. The SUBCLUB covers the differences too.

http://www.subclub.org/darkroom/rollown.htm

Thanks for the resources. I scrambled for information, it began to dawn on me. It all seems to come down to the manufacturer's interpretation and the latitude of the film.
I knew there were two versions of the Pentax 110, but since I couldn't find the second version in the listings, I hadn't noticed the differences. And the important thing is the compensation button. Ok I found one, it's already ordered.

 

[jbrubaker]

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is usable with non- perforated film. It has a multiple exposure feature which allows the shutter to be cocked manually.

 

[xkaes]

While most of the the Mamiya 16 cameras have a focusing lens -- a great feature for sure -- the Minolta 16 cameras (and similar 16mm cameras) don't have a big problem with distance focus because you quickly reach a good distance by stopping down. The SUBCLUB has the DOF tables.

Some Minolta 16 cameras have two settings for focusing, and others have a close-up lens built in. There are lots of models to choose from. The QT has a fully focusing lens.

And don't forget other 16mm makers. KMZ / KIEV sold several 16mm cameras that use the Minolta cassette that have fully focusing lenses. Again, the SUBCLUB has all the details on the various models.

 

[Donald Qualls]

only one thing spoils the idyll - the fixed focus at 9ft.

If you like the Minolta 16II, but dislike the fixed focus, you might consider a Kiev 30, 30M, or 303. These are the same form factor as the Minolta 16 II, with a similar range of shutters speeds in the 30 and only slightly reduced range in the 303, but they have a focusing lens (scale focus, 0.5 m to infinity) and nearly twice the negative area (13x17, effectively same as 110, vs. 10x14) -- and can still use single perf or unperfed 16 mm film (I've shot 16 mm microfilm and 120 stripped to 16 mm -- just about long enough to make two 20 exposure rolls, three strips wide). All Minolta cassettes will fit a Kiev camera, though the Kiev cassettes, made to accommodate a longer film strip, won't fit a Minolta camera.

I've got a 30 and a 303, and both can produce very good images if you're good at estimating distance (I've gotten very good results down to minimum focus) and, as with most subminis, if you have steady hands.

 

[ic-racer]