Suggestions for MF "upgrading"

[Blooze]

I have a real problem with carrying weight but that's because I have had my back fused together.

A lot of photographers have a problem with weight due to age or physical limitations.

It's better to lighten the load and still shoot than to give it up completely.

Oh, I fully understand if there is a physical limitation or age is an issue. I'm sure as the mileage starts to really take it's toll I'll be looking for lighter gear as well, but for right now I'm good and have a few years yet

 

[dynachrome]

I do not hesitate to use a Bronica GS-1 hand held in good light. With the Speed Grip and a prism finder and back it's heavy but still usable hand held. I find my Mamiya RB67 Pro S much less confortable to use hand held. A strong left handed person using a left hand grip might be able to manage it. If you intend to use the camera only on a tripod then weight is not as important unless you are carrying the whole outfit a long distance. When I got the Pro S I knew that with the motorized back I could go up to 6X8. For this reason I recently got an enlarger which will print negatives up to 6X9. If you are looking to make prints of the old standard sizes like 8X10, 11X14 and 16X20 then 6X9 won't give you any meaningful advantage over 6X7. You will simply have to crop more off of the sides with 6X9. I agree with Dan that if you want the control of front standard movements it is probably less expensive and more practical to use a 4X5 camera with a roll film back than to get a dedicated 6X9 camera. Either one would be used on a tripod and there are lighter and heavier 4X5 cameras to choose from. As far as cost is concerned, there is a lot more RB/RZ equipment floating around than Bronica or Pentax 6X7/67 equipment. The Mamiya lenses don't have focusing mounts of their own and, depending on the version, tend to cost less. The Pentax lenses, except for special leaf shutter models, have no built-in shutters. This can make them lighter but not necessarily less expensive. I have the Bronica ETR/SQ/GS cameras and like them but for getting closer to a subject and having a wider selection of lenses, the Pro S is better. The Fujica GX-680 cameras are interesting and have some movements but parts and accessories are not plentiful and they can be expensive.

 

[Blooze]

Ordered a Mamiya RB67 Pro-S, Pro-SD 120 back, and a 65mm C lens with hood from KEH the other night. The camera, back,, and hood were EX graded and the lens BGN (they haven't had any better graded 65mm's for a while now). I went with the 65mm over the 90mm K/L to start with as I like things just a little wider. This is my first order from KEH so we'll see how it goes. Now to go and study the manual

 

[Trail Images]

I've had my RB ProSD gear for over 20+ years now, I use the 65mm much more then most all of my other lenses. You will not be disappointed in the angle of view. The BGN rating is usually not a bad thing either with KEH. They rate a bit more on cosmetics then functionality IMO.

 

[Blooze]

Received my RB67 from KEH this afternoon. All in all it's in pretty good shape.

The lens has a small scratch on the front element about 1/4" long. I don't think it will be an issue with the hood being used. One of the blades on the shutter is bent at the tip, but doesn't seem to affect anything.

BTW, when you fire does the shutter close, then open, then close again? the one second shutter speed seems to be on.

The back is in very good shape. Seals are OK, but need to be replaced. Time to call Jon.

The focusing screen's vertical marks are wandering all over the place. I'm assuming these are waterslides or something between the glass and the fresnel and someone tried to wash it in water.

And the weight. Not going to be an issue I think. It only weighs 1/2 lb more than my D200 with speedflash and battery pack. It actually fits my small hands quite well. I like it.

Anyway, here's the pics:

 

[MattKing]

Received my RB67 from KEH this afternoon. All in all it's in pretty good shape.

The lens has a small scratch on the front element about 1/4" long. I don't think it will be an issue with the hood being used. One of the blades on the shutter is bent at the tip, but doesn't seem to affect anything.

BTW, when you fire does the shutter close, then open, then close again? the one second shutter speed seems to be on.

The back is in very good shape. Seals are OK, but need to be replaced. Time to call Jon.

The focusing screen's vertical marks are wandering all over the place. I'm assuming these are waterslides or something between the glass and the fresnel and someone tried to wash it in water.

And the weight. Not going to be an issue I think. It only weighs 1/2 lb more than my D200 with speedflash and battery pack. It actually fits my small hands quite well. I like it.

Anyway, here's the pics:
View attachment 82261 View attachment 82262 View attachment 82263 View attachment 82264 View attachment 82265

The bent at the tip shutter/aperture blade is normal.

As is the shutter sequence.

That looks to be a "Pro" back, rather than a "Pro-S" back. As a result, you won't get the benefit of the double-exposure prevention that the Pro-S body otherwise supports. You may regret that choice.

And the viewing screen looks very strange - almost like a home-made replacement. As far as I am aware the Mamiya screens do have the vertical cropping lines built in.

 

[Blooze]

The bent at the tip shutter/aperture blade is normal.

As is the shutter sequence

Thank you. That's good to know.

 

[Trail Images]

Congratulations on your upgrade to the Mamiya RB67 platform, Blooze.

The back to me almost looks like my ProSD back, but I'm not sure after reading Matt's comment. As I recall, it seem to me that the original Pro back was rounded on the edges, this unit seems a bit more squared off. Additionally, there is the multi-exposure lever on the top right of the back. Which this back looks to have. That should be used for preventing or allowing double exposure, but only works with the ProSD body I think. It's just a precaution you'll need to verify if it does not. At that point just make sure you ADVANCE the film after each shot. Here is a helpful guide too. Mamiya RB67 Backs

Yep, the ground-glass looks like it was basically eye-ball engineered or done free-hand so to speak with a sharpie. If it bugs you it can always be swapped out with one off of eBay fairly easily. With my bad eyes I replaced mine with one of the old Beattie Intenscreens years ago.

Good luck with getting things rolling and post some photos when you get a chance.

 

[Blooze]

Thanks everyone.

The back is a Pro-SD. The double exposure lever on the back works as it should, so I'm good there.

I found another thread that mentions the basic screen (#214-520) that came with these have waterslide marks for the portrait orientation. Post about 1/2 way down by Saltgeorge mentions it at this link and what water can do. It's definitely not a DIY job with a sharpie. It's too bad the camera doesn't have the moving red bars that are used in the landscape view for the portrait view.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/mamiyarb/discuss/72157632670430771/

 

[Trail Images]

Post about 1/2 way down by Saltgeorge mentions it at this link and what water can do.

Thank you for posting this information. Sounds like a good reason not to do the water job on the screen then.

 

[Kyle M.]

Thanks everyone.

The back is a Pro-SD. The double exposure lever on the back works as it should, so I'm good there.

I found another thread that mentions the basic screen (#214-520) that came with these have waterslide marks for the portrait orientation. Post about 1/2 way down by Saltgeorge mentions it at this link and what water can do. It's definitely not a DIY job with a sharpie. It's too bad the camera doesn't have the moving red bars that are used in the landscape view for the portrait view.

https://www.flickr.com/groups/mamiyarb/discuss/72157632670430771/

Thats strange my Pro S has the moving fiber optic bars that move when you rotate the back. Are yours possibly sticking? The lower one on mine tends to stick a bit so I just go by the lines on the focusing screen, I have the grid screen which has both the portrait and landscape framing marks.

 

[Blooze]

Thats strange my Pro S has the moving fiber optic bars that move when you rotate the back. Are yours possibly sticking? The lower one on mine tends to stick a bit so I just go by the lines on the focusing screen, I have the grid screen which has both the portrait and landscape framing marks.

This is how mine looks. Are the red bars supposed to move to the portrait orientation as well? They don't look like they would.

 

[Blooze]

With my bad eyes I replaced mine with one of the old Beattie Intenscreens years ago.

Holy cow, for near $400 I could just keep buying new rigs

 

[Trail Images]

Are the red bars supposed to move to the portrait orientation as well?

Apparently not. I have the ProSD with a aftermarket screen. However, the red bars only appear during horizontal orientation. They roll out of the way when the back is transformed to the vertical position.

Holy cow, for near $400 I could just keep buying new rigs

EDIT:......not nothing like $400 when I bought it 20 years ago.....

 

[edcculus]

Yea, the red bars only show when the back is in the "landscape" orientation. The black marks always stay. The red bars move out of the way when you rotate the back into portrait orientation. At least thats how mine is...The black lines are built into the viewing screen. The red bars are actually underneath the screen and linked to a mechanism that moves them when the back is rotated.

If you take the screen out and rotate the back you can see that in action.

 

[Blooze]

I'll get a hold of KEH and see if they can do anything for me as far as the screen is concerned. I really would not want to exchange anything else as all seems to function properly.

 

[MattKing]

I'm glad that the back is a Pro-SD - I was fooled by the fact that the Pro-S backs are clearly labelled as such while the Pro backs are unlabeled. Interesting to note that the Pro-SD backs are also hard to identify as such.

 

[Blooze]

I'm glad that the back is a Pro-SD - I was fooled by the fact that the Pro-S backs are clearly labelled as such while the Pro backs are unlabeled. Interesting to note that the Pro-SD backs are also hard to identify as such.

It has a Pro-SD label on it, but it's very small and obscure.

I just got an email back from KEH customer service and they are sending me a replacement screen unit no cost. They told me to keep the one I have and I can use alcohol to remove the wonky lines if I want. They live up to their reputation for service.

 

[Trail Images]

They live up to their reputation for service.

I bought a lens from them a couple months ago. It worked well for two outings and then started to labor with shutter release in both normal mode and mirror up mode. I contacted them and got an immediate RMA # and Fed Ex shipping contact # for return. I was not concerned that it was going to be anymore then a CLA of the lens at the time. They performed the CLA and since it's return I've used several times without a hitch.

 

[Neil Poulsen]

The Mamiya RB67 Pro-S is a good choice. One nice thing over the Pro is the focus lock. Or, it adds tension, so that the lens can't extend on its own. I recently sold my S2a Bronica stuff, so that I could expand a Pro-S outfit. I had a local repair shop clean, align, etc., the Pro-S, so that it was in the best condition.

Personally, I would send the 65mm lens back and not mess with a scratch like that. It'll kill resale, if weight becomes a problem. Plus, I wouldn't accept anything that might contribute to flare.

Received my RB67 from KEH this afternoon. All in all it's in pretty good shape.

The lens has a small scratch on the front element about 1/4" long. I don't think it will be an issue with the hood being used. One of the blades on the shutter is bent at the tip, but doesn't seem to affect anything.

BTW, when you fire does the shutter close, then open, then close again? the one second shutter speed seems to be on.

The back is in very good shape. Seals are OK, but need to be replaced. Time to call Jon.

The focusing screen's vertical marks are wandering all over the place. I'm assuming these are waterslides or something between the glass and the fresnel and someone tried to wash it in water.

And the weight. Not going to be an issue I think. It only weighs 1/2 lb more than my D200 with speedflash and battery pack. It actually fits my small hands quite well. I like it.

Anyway, here's the pics:
View attachment 82261 View attachment 82262 View attachment 82263 View attachment 82264 View attachment 82265

 

[Blooze]

The Mamiya RB67 Pro-S is a good choice. One nice thing over the Pro is the focus lock. Or, it adds tension, so that the lens can't extend on its own. I recently sold my S2a Bronica stuff, so that I could expand a Pro-S outfit. I had a local repair shop clean, align, etc., the Pro-S, so that it was in the best condition.

Personally, I would send the 65mm lens back and not mess with a scratch like that. It'll kill resale, if weight becomes a problem. Plus, I wouldn't accept anything that might contribute to flare.

I put a roll of film through it over the weekend and looking at the negatives I didn't see anything from the small scratch. I thought about sending it back, but they don't have any more 65mm lenses to swap it with. I've never bought anything, except my home, with the thought of resale value. I've never understood the thinking of buying something with the intent of selling it anyway. I try to buy what I know I'll use to begin with and get my money's worth out of it. I frequently pass on unused things for pennies or free to people I know will use them and can't afford to buy at full price. But, to each their own.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

the more I read these types of threads;the more I'm glad I invested in a Hasselblad500 system;admittedly;not cheapbut extremely versatile;weight and bulk is manageable;optics are good to greatand,after you remortgaged the house,you are ready for any type of photographyeven nude figure because your wife left you already anyway.I'm glad I did;poor but glad

 

[Alan Klein]

Can a Professional S or Professional SD back be used on the original Professional camera? I'm still double exposing shots.

 

[MattKing]

Can a Professional S or Professional SD back be used on the original Professional camera? I'm still double exposing shots.

Yes, but they won't help. The double-exposure prevention depends on both the camera and the backs, and the original "Pro" lacks the function.

I always found it best to advance the film immediately after exposure - even before I cocked the shutter and lowered the mirror.

 

[Trail Images]

I always found it best to advance the film immediately after exposure - even before I cocked the shutter and lowered the mirror.

My first RB67 was a Pro. I learned this process the hard way. Once learned I carried it over the my ProSD even though I now have the added protection of the double exposure protection.

Although thinking about it, I always cocked the shutter so the lens was closed before advancing the film as most of my shooting is very low light and Velvia 50. So, most shots are mirror up mode and all timed by my watch.