Suggestions for Developing Old Mystery Films

[J C]

Hello all,

I am looking for a bit of help going about developing a couple of rolls of film I have collected over time. I have a 127 roll of Verichrome Pan and a 220 roll of Plus-X Professional, both of unknown date. I understand that all the years have likely fogged these films into oblivion, but I find it a waste to not at least try. I don't have much experience yet with the technical details of the wide world of black and white chemistry, and I'd appreciate some suggestions on how to best extract some legible frames from these two rolls. I'd prefer to use whatever chemicals I employ with continuous rotary agitation.

Thanks

 

[J C]

 

[Ernst-Jan]

I might say stupid things but:
Old film: HC-110
Film that you don't know how it was shot: stand development

Does stand development in HC-110 exist?

 

[pentaxuser]

I might say stupid things but:
Old film: HC-110
Film that you don't know how it was shot: stand development

Does stand development in HC-110 exist?

Yes I believe it does. I am pretty sure we have at least one successful user here on Photrio I cannot recall a name or the thread unfortunately

pentaxuser

 

[mcfitz]

This was discussed in a thread a few years ago. You might find helpful information in it.

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/50-year-old-latent-images.162329/

 

[Paul Howell]

You understand that one roll is 220, do you have a 220 reel and 127 reel? Stand development is a good idea, other is a divided developer, like Diafine, no worries about time and very forgiving about temperature, 3 minutes in part a, 3 in part b, no stop, fix and wash. With a Rotary tank I would use HC110, but as it has gotten pricy I would go with standard D76 stock.

 

[Donald Qualls]

A standard Paterson reel will accept both 220 and 127.

 

[Paul Howell]

OP has a rotary system of some sort. I just check my Patterson reel, your right there is a 127 setting, been 30 years that I last developed a roll of 127.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've done 127 (cut down from 120) as recently as about fifteen years ago, in my first Paterson tank. That's why I know.

 

[NB23]

Why is stand development, the worst possible method, as indelible and tenacious as the worst smell?

If you’re to use rodinal, go 1:25 6 minutes with energetic agitations every 30 seconds.

Same for HC110:B.

Stand development is totally illogical. What’s with the tenacious romanticism?

 

[Paul Howell]

With very old film where the ISO had been reduced by 50 or even 75%, recommended development times have changed over the years as new emulsion were introduced times have changed, the films in question are Plus X and verichrome pan, maybe fog, who knows if 6 minutes will work or not. With stand Rodinal 1:100 68 or even 66 degrees, 1 hour, if something is there it will be there. Or Rodinal 1:150 and overnight in the refrigerator. Diafine, increased ISO by one stop, the developer soaks in for 3 minutes then the alkaline activates the developing agent, done in another 3 minutes.

 

[Peltigera]

I always use Rodinol 1:100 stand develop for one hour for the old films that I occasionally get in old cameras that I buy. I find the image part is always at least acceptable, though there is frequently other issues with old films - fogging, damp, light leaks to name three.

 

[NB23]

With very old film where the ISO had been reduced by 50 or even 75%, recommended development times have changed over the years as new emulsion were introduced times have changed, the films in question are Plus X and verichrome pan, maybe fog, who knows if 6 minutes will work or not. With stand Rodinal 1:100 68 or even 66 degrees, 1 hour, if something is there it will be there. Or Rodinal 1:150 and overnight in the refrigerator. Diafine, increased ISO by one stop, the developer soaks in for 3 minutes then the alkaline activates the developing agent, done in another 3 minutes.

I want to stay polite so I will just say your logic is bogus.

If there is something to show it will show properly with rodinal/hc110 6 minutes with good agitation.

Oh, it will also show with stand development, but it will look like shit. Like double-shit.

 

[Paul Howell]

My experience does not match your expectations. But, my preference would be a split developer, and then again I've given up developing found old film, to me not worth the expense or aggravation.

 

[Paul Howell]

BTW, Kodak Data guide late 60s, Verichrome Pan HC 110 B is 9 minutes, Plus X is 31/2 minutes. Closest to 6 minutes is D76 stock.

 

[juan]

FX-2 to help recover the speed. Search here for the formula Partick Dignan gave to Tom Hoskinson. Follow Don Cardwell’s suggestion of one hour with agitation every five minutes.

I developed factory 127 film with a standard Patterson reel, so they do work.

 

[removed account4]

do you have dektol or Ansco 130 print developers ?
dilute it 1:6 and develop your film in either of those, short and sweet .. agitate normally
that's the best stuff. .. no matter the age or type of film.
good luck !
John