BLIX is not BLIX. There were many valid arguments against BLIX several years ago, and the all boiled down to "but Tetenal's BLIX is a good BLIX, it works". Tetenal uses a proper bleach accelerator, and they use Ammonium Ferric EDTA, not Sodium Ferric EDTA. They do many things right which some other makers didn't.Looks like you have never done detailed side-by-side tests. Also as you haven written that you have only used the 3-bath kits exclusively.
So the Tetenal kit does not have to be fully mixed at the beginning, like the Hunt kit? You can mix it for amount needed, per batch, for the film that is going to be developed?For the Tetenal kit I get 10 rolls per batch, 50 rolls per kit
Looks like you have never done detailed side-by-side tests
I know of several large format photographers who have switched to the 6/7 bath Fuji kit because of the better stabiliser (smears with 3-bath kit).
BLIX is not BLIX. There were many valid arguments against BLIX several years ago, and the all boiled down to "but Tetenal's BLIX is a good BLIX, it works". Tetenal uses a proper bleach accelerator, and they use Ammonium Ferric EDTA, not Sodium Ferric EDTA. They do many things right which some other makers didn't.
So the Tetenal kit does not have to be fully mixed at the beginning, like the Hunt kit? You can mix it for amount needed, per batch, for the film that is going to be developed?
If this is true, does this allow a longer shelf life, for the remaining chemicals, as they are not fully mixed together yet?
thanks p.
So the whole kit is mixed in the beginning, and then the rest of it is stored in 100ml bottles for later use?So you use 100ml of each of the concentrates for each batch. .. ect ..
BTW: This thread was not started as another blix fight!This thread started with the classic "someone said once that Blix was no good,
So its not about blix thank goodness...No matter what you use:
Colour reversal processing at home can offer you outstanding and perfect results even surpassing the quality of the best professional labs (e.g. if you are using a JOBO rotary processor).
It is very easy and cost efficient. And you have fun: Looking at your self-developed transparencies is wonderful and an experience you will never forget.
No. The kit comes with 6 500ml bottles. To mix 500ml of solution, you use 400ml water + 100ml FD, 300ml water + 100ml CD1 + 100ml CD2, and so on. I think what was suggested there was to move each of the 500ml concentrates into 5 100ml small bottles, so to prepare a total of 5 500ml batches.So the whole kit is mixed in the beginning, and then the rest of it is stored in 100ml bottles for later use?
I don't think this would work. A good bleach consists of an oxidizer and a compound providing a counter anion, and the oxidizer part of your BLIX kit does not provide that counter anion. You will get incomplete bleaching and brown slides.As far as I remember the bleach and fix came in two separate bottles, would it not be possible to mix them separately and bleach first then fix afterwards? This is the way it is done with the Tetenal C41 negative kits.
I don't think this would work. A good bleach consists of an oxidizer and a compound providing a counter anion, and the oxidizer part of your BLIX kit does not provide that counter anion. You will get incomplete bleaching and brown slides.
It would not work for C-41 either, except that the retained silver is not as obvious with the orange mask. The problems associated with retained silver (non-uniform formation of silver sulfide) would still remain.
In the 'States there is the Fuji Hunt kit available from Freestyle. It's very difficult to buy chems the way you would with Flexicolor Kodak says they're making E6 chemicals again soon, but so far nothing. I'm hoping they make something that reflects the reality for labs that use rotary processors. A dip and dunk line would not be sustainable with our current E6 volume.
Don't understand.. but then we do not have a rotary. But if the volume is less, its easier to use rotary as it takes only one roll of film? Vrs developing several rolls at same time by hand?I don’t get enough E-6 through the door to make E-6 viable for anything but rotary processing.
Don't understand.. but then we do not have a rotary. But if the volume is less, its easier to use rotary as it takes only one roll of film? Vrs developing several rolls at same time by hand?
Got it... so even doing for clients, your confident enough to mix an E-6 solution for just the amount of rolls you need. .. Hats off to ya.. having done relatively little color, and no E-6 developing, my confidence level would be zero.
So another question why The Arista kit from Freestyle over the Tetenal chemistry kit? (BTW they are my main supplier)
Where did you get this from? There is absolutely no indication, that this procedure would work for any color process (C-41, RA-4, E-6, ...)? If you mix a bleach only from the oxidizer part of your BLIX kit, I guarantee you, that bleaching will be incomplete.It was just an idea that crossed my mind. I had no idea of the chemical make up and supposed that if it were OK for C41 and RA4 it may work with E6
Which C-41 kit from Tetenal aimed at amateurs would this be? There are two kits currently offered at Freestyle, and both the 1 liter kit, and the 2.5 liter kit are clearly presented as BLIX kits.Read the original post the answer to what you ask is there.
My C41 developer kit, currently from Tetenal has a separate Bleach and Fixing bath, they are not combined. Then after the was a stabiliser.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?