Suggested Develop Time T-Max 100?

[Kevin Kehler]

I had an error today, which is and isn't my fault: I was out shooting a scene today where the light was fading, grabbed the next roll of 120 film from the newly purchased box of Tri-X 320, shot it and while placing the next roll in, noticed that I just exposed a roll of T-Max 100 at 320 ISO. I don't know if my camera store placed the wrong roll in the box or if Kodak put a roll in the wrong box. I am pretty mad at myself for not checking the rolls out more carefully while loading but regardless, I have pushed the film 1.5 stops.

However, I now need to figure out a developing time for this roll in ID-11; I normally shoot HP5 for my "quick" film; after noticing a lot of positive reviews of Tri-X, thought I would give it a try but since I only purchased 5 rolls, I don't want to have to buy some D-76. Kodak's website is useless if you are not using their products; Digital Truth's site recommends between 12 minutes in 1:1 for 200 ISO and 8.5 minutes for 400 ISO in stock; and Ilford's site gives 8 minutes for 100 ISO in stock with no recommendation for longer times. I was going to "guestimate" about 10 minutes in 1:1 but was wondering if anyone else has done this combination before.

(I guess I could also quickly ask, 12.75 minutes in ID-11 at 1:1 for the rest of the rolls? This seems to be the standard time but comments as well?)

 

[MartinB]

However, I now need to figure out a developing time for this roll in ID-11;

I don't shoot TMax often but since you have no replies so far, I'll give it a shot. Giving longer development to "push" film will tend to increase contrast but will not recover much detail in the shadows if they are too far underexposed. As you said, you need a 1-2 stop push but I think there are 2 factors to consider: was the light contrasty or flat when you shot the roll and how did you meter the shadow areas? If you tend to expose the shadows at the meter setting instead of placing them a 1 to 1 1/2 stops lower, then the extra exposure will help. And if the light was flat and not contrasty, then the increased contrast from extra development could be useful.

I am sure others will chime in but have you looked at Kodak's recommended times? On page 10 of TMax tech publication there is a section on push processing that lists D76 (equiv to ID11) that might be useful. I would use the ISO 400 times as a start (8.5 - 9 for stock seems to be in the right ballpark) - you can see the time for ISO 200 is the same as normal 100! I know you probably don't want to change developers but if you have XTol, you will likely find XTol 1:1 will be slightly better for the push than D76/ID11. If the photos are one of kind, then grab another roll of TMax100, expose the same as the mistake roll, and experiment on the test roll first.

Good luck.

Martin

 

[George Collier]

I agree with Martin - you have lost the bottom 2 "zones" of value, the shadows. Over development, in my experience will enhance the middle tones to some extent and highlights more. Stand development will help, but only if there is exposure (latent image) there to start with. If you go too far with development, you could have not only thin, but contrasty negs to work with.
I'm not too familiar with TMax 100, I've used it in the past and found it to be finicky, so I can't offer specific experience.
If it was me, I would use Rodinal, low dilution, with stand or semi-stand development.
Maybe Don Cardwell can offer something - he knows lots about Rodinal.

 

[gainer]

I'm confused. Were all the rolls in that box TMX? In any case, ID-11 and D-76 are identical twins.

The current ISO speed ratings take the point where the characteristic curve reaches a density of 0.1 above base + fog as what some would call the beginning of Zone 1 when the film is developed to a normal contrast index. As contrast increases with increased development, that density is reached at a lower exposure, so all the Zones mave to lower exposures.

Kodak has confused us all by having on the market two TMX films: T-MAX 100 Professional and Professional T-MAX 100. The development times are listed for both in Kodak Publication J-78, which you can find on the internet. Each one can be pushed to 400, but times are different. I ass-u-me that the one you have will be identified on the cartridge or wrapper or paper backing. Any way, times are 11 minutes for TMX PRO and 8.5 minutes for PRO TMX in D-76 or ID-11 at 20 C and 7.5, 5.5 minutes at 24 C to get EI 400.

 

[Kevin Kehler]

Gainer: Sorry if I am now more confused: I purchased a box of Tri-X Professional (ISO 320) and one of the rolls in the box was different than the rest. The band holding the different roll closed says Kodak Professional 120 but the paper itself says 100 TMX. So, I am now unsure how to distinguish which it is. I will have to roll the film into a reel, seal it in a development tank and then look at the paper leftover to be sure. Anyways, thank-you very much for the times.

Thanks George and Martin for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a supplier of Rodinal who: (a) is based in Canada and doesn't want an obscene amount of mark-up for Rodinal (I found one who had 125% mark-up over USA prices) or (b) an international supplier who can ship to Canada (I know of several USA stores but none will ship a liquid across the border). I am curious to try something like Diafine (a stainer I saw reviewed about 2-years ago in Black & White Photography) as all films have an identical development time in it but again, have not found a Canadian supplier.

 

[gainer]

The date of manufacture might be the key if you can find it. If it was in the same box with the Tri-X 320 it should have been manufactured at the same time, I would think. I think the reason for the confusion is that Kodak came out with an "improved" version of TMX that had the different development times while the old version was still in stock and chose that means of letting you know what you bought without actually telling you. Why that roll got in that box without some kind of announcement like "NEW TMX!!!" is beyond me. The only difference I can see in J-78 is one is called T-MAX 100 Professional and the other is Professional T-MAX 100. Clever, no?

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Gainer: Sorry if I am now more confused: I purchased a box of Tri-X Professional (ISO 320) and one of the rolls in the box was different than the rest. The band holding the different roll closed says Kodak Professional 120 but the paper itself says 100 TMX. So, I am now unsure how to distinguish which it is. I will have to roll the film into a reel, seal it in a development tank and then look at the paper leftover to be sure. Anyways, thank-you very much for the times.

Thanks George and Martin for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I have yet to find a supplier of Rodinal who: (a) is based in Canada and doesn't want an obscene amount of mark-up for Rodinal (I found one who had 125% mark-up over USA prices) or (b) an international supplier who can ship to Canada (I know of several USA stores but none will ship a liquid across the border). I am curious to try something like Diafine (a stainer I saw reviewed about 2-years ago in Black & White Photography) as all films have an identical development time in it but again, have not found a Canadian supplier.

There is a good Mix-it-from-scratch Diafine substitute (somewhere in the APUG archives).

 

[Kevin Kehler]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, I developed the film for 10:15 in 1:1 dilution at 21c degrees. While I definitely did lose some shadow detail, I have really good accutance and the roll will be usable, which is all I hoped for. First thumbnail is an untouched scan of a portion of one negative, second thumbnail is a detail on the same scan. Again, thanks a lot.

Thanks Tom for the idea, never thought of it.