Just wash them in a tray, retreat with Photo Flo (mixed to the proper dilution since not-dilute-enough Photo Flo may be your problem) and hang from a line with a wooden clothespin from a corner (just like you would sheet film). It is easy to position the clothespin so it just barely grabs a couple of mm of the corner.
The suggestion to soak them in an acetic-acid solution (acetic-acid stop bath will work just great) is a good one.
If you aren't 100% sure your negatives are not underfixed, then refix before the wash too.
Best,
Doremus
Yes, and with constant agitation.Is this film developed in a spiral?
Elmarc,
First, I misspoke (mistyped) in my previous post; I meant to say that a too-strong solution of Photo Flo may be the problem. Using it more dilute than recommended works fine providing that you get the required surfactant effect (i.e., no water droplets).
By "hypo test," I assume you're testing for residual hypo with the HT-2 test. Be aware that fixer that starts to sulfur out may contain very fine suspended particles that can coat the film, but still be active enough to completely fix the film. These are two different problems. If particulates are coating the film, they will need to be wiped off.
As far as time in the acetic acid bath (with the goal of dissolving the deposit if it's carbonate or the like), there aren't any hard and fast rules. A longer soak won't hurt the film. I'd toss it in for 15 minutes and see what it looked like after that. If no change, then soaking longer likely won't help any.
Glad your subsequent processing went well.
Doremus
How did you develop? Like Bob, I can't tell much from that photo. What I see looks like it might not be completely fixed.
Also, if you get developer into your fix, you could end up redepositing dissolved silver back onto the film, if the fix is heavily used (it's pretty unlikely).
I cannot puzzle out what is what on the photo.
A couple of times I didn't remove the sticky tape that holds the film and backing paper together.
The glue dissolved in the tank and left streaks down the film.
Now I always remove the sticky tape from the film before loading the spiral.
Does the streaking affect the reproduction of the negs as prints. If this question has been asked then just ignore it but it struck me that everyone is trying to think of an answer to the streaking but if it doesn't affect printing/ scanning and now seems to be not there all the time then and we none of us have found the answer then as long as it doesn't affect the final product I wonder how much it matters as it is not the negative that anyone admires or wants to see. It's the posítive as a hard print or a scan that's important
pentaxuser
I read over this very fast so might have miss something. Can I ask what camera you are using?
calcium sulfite scum? Can you wipe it off with a sponge while the negs are wet? Does it clear off in an acid fixing bath (with agitation)? Doesn't look like photoflo to me.
Why are they hung up at a diagonal?.............. Especially as the negs are hung up at a diagonal and these streaks are vertical...................
Hasselblad 500c/m
In that case use distilled water for the final wash.
I do however use distilled for the developer and final wash.
Why are they hung up at a diagonal?
Vertical would seem the simplest.
John re your # 45. That may be an explanation but the OP in his #31 has said that the problem had disappeared but then returned. So is there any way that with a Hasselblad leaks might not show on every occasion? One thing is certain and that is something had changed somewhere in the process from loading a film in the camera to unloading it from the developing tank
As Koraks has said, it's the elimination of each possible cause at a time and maybe starting with the camera
pentaxuser
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