Stretching Rollei c-41 2.5L kit

[JLeichtPhoto]

Hi everyone! This is my first post to the site, so please excuse any slips on etiquette or formatting.

I have a question that I think someone here might be able to help me out with! As the title suggests, I have a 2.5L kit that I bought with the intent to stretch out to 2x1 liter batches and 1x .5 liter batch. This is only my second time working with a liquid chem kit, which makes this a little harder, and my first time working with a kit whose mother language is not my own, which makes it even worse on my end. Essentially, I just need to figure out the ratios I need for 1000 mL at a time, and to do that I need to find out the volume of each part of the separate chemicals (color dev parts A, B, and C; blix parts A, and B; and stabilizer), and the amount I'd need to use to make up 1 L.

Has anyone else tried this out before, and if so would you happen to have those measurements on hand that you wouldn't mind sharing? Thanks a ton!

 

[mshchem]

I would make the entire batch. Separate it into 600mL soda bottles ABSOLUTELY FULL. Excluding air is the key. PET soda bottles have VERY LOW gas permeability. Use 1 bottle until exhausted then start the next. If you want Use 2 1L and 1 500mL. Just keep full. Use distilled water for developer and final rinse. Once you start using a solution you have 7-10 days by the book. Maybe longer if you are careful.

 

[koraks]

Yeah, what @mschem says. Just mix everything and decant into conveniently sized bottles. I use a mix of 150ml, 300ml, 500ml and 1000ml glass bottles for this kind of thing.

 

[Rudeofus]

I would advise strictly against premixing the BLIX, it will not last long. Sealing the bottles will not help it either, since BLIX already brings all the oxidizer it needs to destroy the fixer component.

The color developer working solution is said to last longer, and sealed bottles may give you several months of shelf life.

If you want to keep the concentrates (and thereby get roughly a year of shelf life), you need the following:
1. color developer: 2 bottles for 100ml, 5 bottles for 50ml, 2 bottles for 25ml. All bottles need to be air proof. There is one concentrate component holding the alkali, this component would suffer from aerial Carbon Dioxide. The other two concentrate bottles contain color developer and preservative, these two need to be protected from aerial Oxygen.

With these nine bottles you put concentrate part A into 2x100ml plus 1x50ml, then you put concentrate B into 2x50ml and 1x25ml, finally you separate concentrate C into 2x50ml plus 1x 25ml. All nine glass bottles should be full. Ideally you would put inert gas at the top, there are some descriptions here in this forum how to do this.

2. BLIX:: 2 bottles for 200ml, 1 bottle for 100ml. There are two concentrates to mix the BLIX, and one of the concentrates looks very dark red. This is the oxidizer concentrate, which needs no special protection. You could even leave that concentrate in its original bottle with no change in shelf life. The other concentrate part is the fixer part, and this one needs good protection. If you do not store this concentrate in sealed bottles, they will likely sulfur out after 6-9 months.

With these three bottles you separate the fixer concentrate into these three bottles. Like with color developer concentrates you should think about using inert gas to keep out aerial Oxygen.

3. STAB: like with the dark red BLIX concentrate, you will need no special measures to keep this concentrate intact. Just leave it in its original bottle and measure out as needed when you mix working solution.

 

[pentaxpete]

This is interesting : I have a 2x10 litre Fuji 'Environeg Air Control' kit from a mini-lab. I have used one of the 10 litre sets. the last one contains 'A - the Alkalie' B -- the Hydroxyhydrochloride and 'C; the CD-4 + some Metabisulphite preservative. i only squirt some BUTANE gas into air above Part C . Should I now ALSO squirt some in Parts A and B ?

 

[Rudeofus]

You should definitely protect the Hydroxyalamine part, since it is a reducer just like the color developer. And yes, it won't hurt to protect the alkali part against aerial Oxygen.