streak across MF negs....

[Richard S. (rich815)]

See attached photo. Every once and a while I see this streak across my medium negs, like the one you can see in the sky there to the left of the palm tree. it's not a light leak as i see it from different cameras (this happens to be my Hasselblad 500CM, but I get it with my Rolleiflex TLRs sometimes, or my SL66 or even my Fuji GA655i), not always in the same place, nor the same film or developer, and for this roll of film only this frame. I imagine it's likely something to do with handling or development process. Ideas? My developer pouring technique? Kinking the film in the changing bag? Thoughts?

 

[ic-racer]

What do the negatives look like ? Does the density extend across the entire film? Is silver density or something on the base side?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

This is Kodak Tmax 400 (TMY-2), by the way, developed in HC-110. Stainless steel canister using Hewes reels.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

What do the negatives look like ? Does the density extend across the entire film? Is silver density or something on the base side?

Only within the frame of the image, looking through a strong light at the neg it's a faint darker streak, no indication of any physical damage to the film on either side. I'm thinking perhaps flare? Lens was a 40/4 CF T* FLE Distagon.

 

[DoctorMouse]

Could it be a bending part of the negative inside the canister? Had this stuff several times when I was a bit grumpy on the installation process, experiencing difficulties inserting it..


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[nworth]

There is no canister for 120, so it is not that. It could be from bending. More likely it is a processing artifact. Sometimes developer drips over a piece of negative and starts working before the entire negative is immersed. Sometimes the film kinks on the reel and creates a hot spot where the effective agitation is greater. Sometimes other things happen. It is important to load the reel carefully so that the film is evenly wound in the slots. it is also important to pour in the developer quickly, in one continuous pour.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Thanks for the replies all, here and in PMs. I've narrowed it down to likely bending by me when loading onto the reel in the changing bag. Will try with a framed bag, or in a darkened closet without the confines a smaller changing bag has that might be conducive to be doing this. Appreciate all the suggestions.

 

[DoctorMouse]

I would try to bend and fold a bit of negative before giving it a bath. From what I recall, this happened indeed when the sliding process on the wheel was resistant making the film bend obviously, whatever canister or not you call the final recipient. Cutting two tiny "ears" at the head of the film before inserting it could help. Have fun!


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[Bob Carnie]

Looks like photoflow streak to me.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Looks like photoflow streak to me.

More details please. What do you mean? I do use photoflo but never heard of this kind of issue....

 

[Bob Carnie]

Sometimes if the concentration is too much or your angle of pull and drip is not enough, the photo flow will dry on the film and print white.

sometimes spots, sometimes straight lines like yours or sometimes mottled

if it has dried on the base side of the film you can rewash with no issue... if it has dried on the emulsion side then more problem getting rid of it.

Bob

 

[removedacct1]

Looks like photoflow streak to me.

That was my impression as well.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Hmm, I actually use slightly less than the prescribed amount suggested in the photoflo bottle. Examining the neg I see no evidence of dried photoflo on either side. I'll look more carefully at my negs after the final wash and before I dunk into photoflo and dry it next time but I doubt this is it...

 

[removedacct1]

Ive found some emulsions require one or two drops more photo flo than others, and if I don't add the extra bit, I get drying streaks in some areas where the water has beaded up unevenly. The problem happens more if the uneven drying happens on the emulsion side and if the drying takes hours (sometimes does in the room I hang film in - its on the cold side in there)

 

[outwest]

LFN in distilled water is the only way to go.

 

[Rick A]

LFN in distilled water is the only way to go.

+1

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

LFN in distilled water is the only way to go.

Tried it. Does not work for me and I do not know why. Distilled or tap. Water beads and dries on my negs with little dried circles. Still have 8/9th of a bottle left. Guess I'll try again.

 

[Bob Carnie]

What is LFN and if its the only way to go I am in serious trouble and will be making phone calls to get back all the film I processed .
Bummer this is going to take awhile.

LFN in distilled water is the only way to go.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

What is LFN and if its the only way to go I am in serious trouble and will be making phone calls to get back all the film I processed .
Bummer this is going to take awhile.

Darn it Bob! You should have known!

 

[pschwart]

What is LFN and if its the only way to go I am in serious trouble and will be making phone calls to get back all the film I processed .
Bummer this is going to take awhile.

LFN is an Edwal product. I switched from Photoflo a few years ago and it has worked very well for me, too.

 

[Saganich]

I agree a photoflo issue. I had similar strange issues with streaking and quit using photoflo. Regarding the DI rinse I have been doing the following for years without any issues for medium and 35mm:
1. Hang film
2. Using a laboratory wash bottle starting at the top squirt distilled water covering the whole frame area and wash the length of the hanging roll moving the bottle down with the cascading water to the last frame. Gravity creates a running stream down the length of the film. Do this for both sides. Need a tray to catch the water rolling off. If there is high humidity a light fan circulating air in the room is helpful. I've never had the water spots issue after doing it this way.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

I agree a photoflo issue. I had similar strange issues with streaking and quit using photoflo. Regarding the DI rinse I have been doing the following for years without any issues for medium and 35mm:
1. Hang film
2. Using a laboratory wash bottle starting at the top squirt distilled water covering the whole frame area and wash the length of the hanging roll moving the bottle down with the cascading water to the last frame. Gravity creates a running stream down the length of the film. Do this for both sides. Need a tray to catch the water rolling off. If there is high humidity a light fan circulating air in the room is helpful. I've never had the water spots issue after doing it this way.

And this is using neither photoflo or LFN?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Well, here it is again. This time TWICE on the same image. On a new roll of film (Acros) recently shot just a couple days ago, and developed by me yesterday. This one shot with my Rolleiflex SL66 and developed in Rodinal, fixed in TF-4 and then washed and lastly using LFN and not Photoflo. The streak in the bottom left of the frame continues into the next frame too. I am so frustrated as this occurs so randomly and I cannot figure it out! I am extremely careful not to crinkle or bend the film when loading in the changing bag or any other time.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Richard - can you see a deposit or streak on the film base or emulsion.. If it is a photo flow problem it will show itself..

If it is a plus density streak inside the image then I will have to say it is some kind of light leak.. are the lids of the process tank in good shape ?, I have had issues before with this..

If it is something with the camera I have no advice.

 

[Rudeofus]

The strange thing about these streaks is that they are more prominent in bright image regions than in darker image regions. This fact points more to developing/fixing artefacts than photoflo streaks, flare or light leaks. If you bent the film during loading, processing or drying, you would see obvious signs of this by visual inspection of the affected frame, and I guess this thread wouldn't exist.

You write that you go from developer directly to a very alkaline fixer (TF-4). Have you thought about using a stop bath and a wash between developer and fixer?