Strap issue with Kodak Brownie Holiday Flash camera

[What About Bob]

This camera belongs to my mom. I cannot seem to reattach the strap to one of the side locks of this camera. The strap was cut by yours truly because I had originally thought that part of the strap was preventing one of the side locks to not come off the camera, this was not the case. I then saw a bent piece on the side lock which appears to be the culprit. The side lock was jammed on the camera and I had to gently lift it to get it off.

I ordered a set of small pliers for working with the bent piece on the lower side of the side lock from the first picture. Second picture shows the slit that the strap needs to go through. I would like to preserve the strap and get it back on and I am seeing that this will be a challenge. The strap is very easily frayed. I do not see how it can be inserted into the lower slit due to clamped metal section being so tight. I feel bad for cutting the strap.

Is there a possible fix for this?

 

[Donald Qualls]

The last one of those I had with a remaining strap, the strap was a synthetic of some kind. If that's the case, you can stop the fraying by heating a fresh cut with a match flame or lighter (or cutting with a hot blade).

If it's natural fiber of some sort (still a possibility, depending on the age of your camera) you can do much the same by working Elmer's or similar white glue into the cut end. Let dry overnight, and trim with a razor blade or Xacto knife to remove bulges and let the strap fit through the latch lug.

 

[What About Bob]

Hey Donald

According to my mom she told me that she received the camera when she was 7. This would make the year of purchase somewhere in 1956. It appears that this camera type was introduced in 1953.

Last night I did wrap around a tiny bit of scotch tape around the cut end and was able to kind of get it into the slit of the slide lock but I am stuck at pulling the end more into the lock. I am just now waiting for the pliers to arrive to see if I could gently pull that end part more into the slide lock and under the clamp area and then remove the tape. I tried using tweezers but that did not give any real grip onto the strap end for pulling. The strap looks more like a shoestring than a strap, lol.

I like your plan and would like to try this and maybe I should hold off from what I am waiting on doing?

Update: I just noticed something else When I push down on the shutter button it stays open as long as the button is pressed. The shutter speed is rated around 1/30th or 1/40th and I should just see a very quick open and closing while looking through the back. Uh-oh.

Thanks Donald

 

[Donald Qualls]

When I push down on the shutter button it stays open as long as the button is pressed.

Hmmm. I don't see a B setting on there (it's been a long time since I had my own 127 Brownies from that period out). That might strongly indicate a need to clean the shutter. Fortunately, it's very simple; I'm afraid I don't recall enough details on this model to say for certain how to access it (front or back, if back, how to get the baffles out, etc.).

 

[xya]

Yes, cleaning the shutter would be a good idea. As far as I remember, these are rotary shutters with an asymetric blade which should make a full turn. Sometimes they don't gain enough momentum for a turn, so they open and fall back when you release the shutter button. Try to push quick and hard. If you do this several times, it might start going...

 

[What About Bob]

Thanks Donald and xya

There are two screws on the front and a few on the inside. I will attempt to open the thing up, some time soon. I will keep looking around for some kind of documentation on this model or maybe even documentation from another model that would be closely related to this one, should be close enough.

I like the old little manual for the camera. I like how they refer to the bulb as a "lamp" on page 2 and 3. My mom also has that flash holder along with some sort of pop-on diffusion piece that is somewhere in one of her old storage boxes. The diffusion add-on looked really gross from the last time I remembered seeing it. Browned big time like it was tobacco laden.

This should be a neat little project. I will keep updated with it.

 

[eli griggs]

I suggest that while white glue might be suitable for a textile strap, shellac will more easily penetrate the fibers and be shaped by using some heavy foil to size for the opening and squeeze out excess fluid, for your strap.

Most fingernail lacquers are too thick but some might work as well.

 

[What About Bob]

Thanks Eli. I'm a little late in the game here but I will hold on to this info. Thanks

Got the strap back in and I also had to bend back a tiny metal part, shown at the bottom where my thumb is in image #1, which was bent down and preventing the slide lock from going back onto the side of the camera. Sides go back on now, YAY.

@xya: I did what you said about pushing quick and harder on the button and the shutter opened and did actually close on its ownthis time and there was a little more of a delay. I did it a few more times and the opening and closing kind of looks like it would be around 1/30th or in between 1/30th and 1/15th I'm thinking lubrication could help some? I read somewhere about something called white lithium grease being decent to use for lubricating pieces. Would this be correct?

 

[Donald Qualls]

I wouldn't use grease anywhere in any shutter unless specifically called for by a repair manual.

The rotary shutters in most box cameras have a rivet for the pivot, and tiny drop of very light oil on that pivot (at the edge of the rivet head, it'll wick under) is the only lubrication I'd recommend for one. I don't think 1/30 is far off for a camera in this class -- I remembering thinking mine was 1/60, but it's been a long time and I never actually measured it. Don't forget, film was typically slow in the 1950s, with consumer B&W running ASA 50-64 (before the ASA ratings of most films doubled in 1960), so 1/30 to 1/60 is a reasonable figure for a camera with f/11 to f/16 aperture and a recommendation to use in full daylight or with flash.

 

[What About Bob]

I wouldn't use grease anywhere in any shutter unless specifically called for by a repair manual.

The rotary shutters in most box cameras have a rivet for the pivot, and tiny drop of very light oil on that pivot (at the edge of the rivet head, it'll wick under) is the only lubrication I'd recommend for one. I don't think 1/30 is far off for a camera in this class -- I remembering thinking mine was 1/60, but it's been a long time and I never actually measured it. Don't forget, film was typically slow in the 1950s, with consumer B&W running ASA 50-64 (before the ASA ratings of most films doubled in 1960), so 1/30 to 1/60 is a reasonable figure for a camera with f/11 to f/16 aperture and a recommendation to use in full daylight or with flash.

Film was a little thicker too, if I am remembering correctly.

The consumer manual recommends Verichrome Pan, Kodacolor and Tri-X for only distant flash shots. A 100 speed film should be a safe bet. Man, I miss Plus-X.

The cost of 127 is on the high end. I can get a few rolls and bite the cost. I was thinking of getting my hands on that device for cutting down 120 to 127 format I believe it was from the UK. Someone was demonstrating its use on Youtube. The thing was small.

Thanks Donald

 

[What About Bob]

It appears that the site that has this cutter has a wordpress error going on with it. Can't find this cutter anywhere else.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Can't find this cutter anywhere else.

I have one I got from eBay, but the first dozen rolls I cut down I did in daylight with a utility knife. I just marked the still-sealed roll at 46 mm width (preserving the 6x4.5 track; IIRC that means you'll keep the right side as viewed with the leader tongue going away from you), rolled the roll on a table under the blade until I hit the core (or cut right through it!), then trimmed the leader for length and shape, rolled to a 127 spool in a dark bag, trimmed the tail for length and shape, and rolled back to another 127 spool. 16 shots of 4x4. The 6x6 track lands under the 4x6.5 window if you have one of those cameras, but the spacing will be very tight or even overlap a couple millimeters -- but with the leader and tail trimmed to correct length all 16 frames will fit on a 127 spool (just).

 

[What About Bob]

I get the first few steps that you are describing but not sure of the rest. Trying to visualize this. So many questions.

Main site for that cutting device is in Italy, not UK.

I did a search on eBay for FCK127 film cutter and nothing came up. My guess is maybe it isn't being made anymore? The main site has a fatal error - uncaught error. Something in PHP that needs to be checked.

The frame size from the brownie is 1 and 5/8 X 2 and 1/2 inches. This gives 8 exposures on a roll. I will still get a roll of the stuff for the reason of bringing life back to an old camera yet at the same time in my mind: $30 plus dollars + shipping for an 8 exposure roll for an old point and shoot camera which may or may not produce that great of images. ehhhhhhh looooool.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Try an eBay search for "127 film cutter" without the brand information. Or, if you have a 3D printer, look for my design on Thingiverse -- it'll cut 127/16 mm or three 16 mm strips from 120 (with different cutter blocks) using #11 blades.

 

[What About Bob]

The web site for the FCK127 cutter is back online: https://www.camerhack.it/