Storing D76 1:1

[mporter012]

I've read mixed opinions on this, so I'm curious, is it ok to store d76 1:1 for several weeks/months at a time? Kodak says not to, but in the past, the darkrooms I've been apart of do dilute 1:1 and store it that way.

I assume I should follow Kodak's recommendation?

"If you use D-76 Developer diluted 1:1, dilute it just before
you use it, and discard it after processing the batch of film.
Before using the diluted developer, make certain that there
are no air bubbles in the solution. If air is coming out of the
solution and forming bubbles, let the solution stand until the
bubbles dissipate. Don’t reuse or replenish the diluted
solution. You can develop one 135-3 roll (80 square inches)
in 473 mL (16 ounces) or two rolls together in 946 mL
(one quart) of diluted developer. If you process one
135-36 roll in a 237 mL (8-ounce) tank or two 135-36 rolls
in a 473 mL (16-ounce) tank, increase the development time
by 10 percent (see the following tables)."

 

[Tom1956]

No, this does not store 1:1. Not at all recommended.

 

[Axle]

Store D-76 Stock, Dilute, and use as 1-shot

 

[mporter012]

It was sort of an obvious question, but glad I asked. Thanks for the confirmation.

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

If it helps at all, I mix my D-76d (buffered) version from scratch. No Kodak "secret sauce" ingredients included. In completely filled brown glass liter bottles it keeps virtually unchanged as stock solution for over a year. At least unchanged as far as I can tell without true testing.

So long keeping times are available, if that's what you are seeking.

Ken

 

[Xmas]

I dilute developers with previously boiled water left to cool to reduce amount of air in solution.

Ilford provide times for 1+3 as well as 1+0 and 1+1.

 

[gone]

What Ken said. I couldn't even get my stock solution to last months! No matter how I stored it I got inconsistent results after 3-4 weeks. It wasn't glaringly different at that point, but the grain on the negs was different enough to bother me. Either mix it yourself as he does, or buy it in a TD-16 form from Photographers' Formulary. My last batch of the latter ran out after 3 1/2 months, but the negs were looking exactly like they did after I first mixed it. However you decide to do it, it's not gonna keep worth a hoot at 1:1 or at any other dilutions. The developing times are a little different on the TD-16. I called them on this and they said it was normal. While I was developing D76 for around 7 1/2 minutes at 68 degrees, w/ the TD-16 I develop for 8 1/2 to 9 minutes. This is for Tri-X shot at 250.

 

[jp498]

The benefit of mixing it 1:1 when you use it is that you can average the temperatures to get it the temp you want it. e.g. your stock is 65f and you want 70f, add 75f water and you're at 70f.

 

[fotch]

........
I assume I should follow Kodak's recommendation?
......."

Yes, of course.

 

[mporter012]

Yes, of course.

Yes, a rather foolish question! It is interesting though, how many people say - ''just do this, I've done it for years!'' and kodak says the opposite!

 

[fotch]

Yes, a rather foolish question! It is interesting though, how many people say - ''just do this, I've done it for years!'' and kodak says the opposite!

Who you gonna believe, the maker or the know it all. I put my trust in the manufacturer, in this case.

 

[Rick A]

I have used D-76 1+1 stored for 3 months that showed no signs of degradation. I do NOT recommend this, it was only an experiment, and not repeated. I had some that I mixed and didn't use, then rediscovered the bottle on my shelf and developed a test sheet of 4x5 to see if it still worked. It was stored in a filled to the brim and tightly capped bottle, and was still clear with no discoloration. My recommendation: follow Kodak's instructions.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Yes, a rather foolish question! It is interesting though, how many people say - ''just do this, I've done it for years!'' and kodak says the opposite!

Yes, they are called contrarians and they take a perverse pleasure in not following directions. No matter what the OP referred to they say they do the opposite.

 

[Pioneer]

My stock solution of D-76 will last a bit over 2 months because that is usually how long it takes me to use up a gallon. But I have never tried to store diluted D76. I mix the dilution when I develop and then I toss it. It might last but I've never had to store it that way. It is so easy to mix at time of use I am not sure why anyone would do it?

 

[fotch]

Yes, they are called contrarians and they take a perverse pleasure in not following directions. No matter what the OP referred to they say they do the opposite.

You nailed it.

 

[g.marchetti]

A question for Ken. The film developing times of D76d are the sames of normal D76?Thanks

 

[g.marchetti]

Excuse me,an added question.The exposure index of film is the same for the two versions of D76? Regards

 

[Xmas]

The ISO speed is dependent on development time for conventional developers

http://www.foma.cz/en/catalogue-fomapan-400-action-detail-272

If you down load the PDF data sheet then forma provide the ISO dependency for three soups in graph form

1+1 or 1+3 would vary similarly

Different clones of D76 would have different speeds / fog levels, but you need a step wedge to see 1/3 of a stop.

eg Microphen is PQ variant of D76 restrainer, less sulphite, buffered but only 1/3 of a stop between the two really

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

A question for Ken. The film developing times of D76d are the sames of normal D76? Thanks

Excuse me, an added question. The exposure index of film is the same for the two versions of D76? Regards.

From a practical point of view, yes, both are essentially the same. At least in my experience.

I have recently been simply using the Ilford-recommended EIs and developing times for FP4+ and HP5+ (in all formats) for D-76 (1+1), and I see no large-scale differences at all from my earlier use of commercially packaged D-76 diluted similarly.

But it bears repeating, I have not conducted my own densitometric tests to verify these observations. However the black-and-white process itself is so flexible that any differences that might exist are so small compared to the flexibility of the overall process that they are easily accommodated.

And the tradeoff for that is a buffered stock solution whose activity doesn't significantly drift over time. And for me that's a worthwhile tradeoff. This is not know-it-all information, but rather data that has been arrived at empirically over time.

Click (there was a url link here which no longer exists) to see the exact formula I have been successfully mixing and using for over a decade.

Ken

 

[g.marchetti]

Thank you Ken for the immediate replay.Good night

 

[Gerald C Koch]

However the black-and-white process itself is so flexible that any differences that might exist are so small compared to the flexibility of the overall process that they are easily accommodated.

+1

Anyone who is serious about photography should have a copy of this book in their library; Richard Henry, Controls in Black-and-White Photography. One of the things that becomes obvious when studying it is just how much latitude there is in the photographic process. This is also why I find the endless testing of film, developers, ... to be rather masochistic. Unless you have the equipment to do a really scientific study your results are meaningless. Consider any test which relies on the accuracy of a camera shutter, typically any slow speed may be off by 20% and fast speeds by 50%. There is just too much slop in the system. So another more accurate method of determining exposure must be used.

 

[Ronald Moravec]

1:1 storage is time it takes to dilute and temper. No more.

Paper developer is 4 to 8 hours. Never overnite even in a sealed jar. It will work, but you get get funny tones you can not correct and can`t figure out why.

 

[Kyle M.]

D-76 is my go to developer I dilute it 1+3 and one shot. My stock solution is in a 1 gallon clear plastic jug stored in the dark. Regardless of what Kodak says I mixed this batch in August of 2013, and I can't see a difference between negs from then or ones from last week. I also can't tell a difference between cold, room temperature, and warm water using the same times. I don't know maybe I'm just lucky or maybe kodak is just being conservative, either way what I'm doing works so I'll keep doing it. If I have a catastrophic failure then maybe I'll change my ways, until then I'm perfectly happy with my method. Those that disagree will also cringe when they read that I also dilute XTOL 1+3 with excellant results, to each his own.