Most of the recent posts in this thread have been concerning film, not prints.Did Edward Weston use water as a stop bath? Name me any top world gelatin silver printer who uses water as a stop bath?
Most of the recent posts in this thread have been concerning film, not prints.
But even with prints, RC based printing materials certainly make running water stop baths practical, and there are far more prints done on RC now than fibre based materials.
Personally, I do almost all my printing on RC materials, including my exhibition prints, and I use stop bath with RC papers as well.
You probably have two hands that are capable of handling sheet film. I'm limited to one plus a non-dexterous second.
Just to highlight the fact that different people have different circumstances.
I can't, because most don't bother mentioning their stop bath.OK, name me any world class photographers, or their processors who use water as a stop bath for their film?
I can't, because most don't bother mentioning their stop bath.
They would probably be using pyro developers though.
No problem with paper processing here - I'm fine with trays, safelights and tongs.You need to do your paper processing in Jobo processors.
If they were using a water stop?I don't think they would be using Pyro developers.
OK, name me any world class photographers, or their processors who use water as a stop bath for their film?
All those having used E-6 film
First developer (which is bare BW developer) is always stopped with plain water, and E-6 is a quite critically precise processing.
in fact I was convinced with that argument... a mate told me: Do you know slides? ...first bw developer is stoped with water, and those that designed such a processing were not rookies !
Still, no problem with acid bath, sapecially if fixer is not alkaline.
If you are now talking about E6, you are completely changing the subject. I thought we were talking about black & white films and paper?
All those having used E-6 film
First developer (which is bare BW developer) is always stopped with plain water, and E-6 is a quite critically precise processing.
in fact I was convinced with that argument... a mate told me: Do you know slides? ...first bw developer is stoped with water, and those that designed such a processing were not rookies !
Still, no problem with acid bath, sapecially if fixer is not alkaline.
But of course we all know the stop bath with indicator is so damned expensive!
And PE recommending that people who had crossover problems to use stop bath instead of water.
But of course we all know the stop bath with indicator is so damned expensive!
Darkroom Cookbook's statements of routinely questionable veracity
Way too small for 11x14 negative development...recipe for disaster...a 14x17 or 16x20 perhaps if I thought it at all practical for me. In my set-up open trays are more practical. I like the dark.You may try using a 11x14 paper safe !
...Developing in a daylight tray is like riding an electrically assited bike !
if I thought it at all practical for me. In my set-up open trays are more practical. I like the dark.
Strangely enough I haven't felt the need to update my copy of the 'Darkroom Cookbook' to the latest edition...
When it comes to exposing and in particular developing film, sadly there aren’t really that many correct ways.
Well, I'm glad it's finally settled. I've been waiting for the answer for sixteen years.
45 years of using stop or water shows no difference in my negatives. However I tend to wash negs and prints longer than strictly necessary.
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