We have a programme about spies on British TV called Spooks. So how in the hell did you work that one out about my ageThat would make you about 75 years old, right?
I know how.how in the hell did you work that one out about my age
That was exactly my logic.I know how.
If you will be 100 at your death, and at that time will have spent 40 years on Photrio, you would have been 60 (100 - 40) when you joined Photrio/APUG.
You joined in 2005 (at 60).
It is 15 years since then.
You must be 60 + 15 = 75.
QED
PS Just think what your post count will be 40 years from now!
How important is stop bath? Very important is the answer and this may be understating it given this thread has lasted nearly fifteen and a half years
pentaxuser
How important is stop bath? Very important is the answer and this may be understating it given this thread has lasted nearly fifteen and a half years
pentaxuser
Yes I feel my whimsy has somehow got lost and not just in this response.If stop bath was not important, Kodak, Fuji, Ansco, Agfa, Ilford, Rollei would not have invested in research and development on stop bath.
45 years of using stop or water shows no difference in my negatives. However I tend to wash negs and prints longer than strictly necessary.I always use a water stop. Haven't had any problem til now.
Albert Ainstein?Did AA use a stop bath?
I'd love to see those negatives! This is actually something I've been dying to try for a long time.This week I learned that after stop bath you can fix the negative in normal lightning.
I'd love to see those negatives! This is actually something I've been dying to try for a long time.
Well, basically it's because there is no risk. So if you want to look at the negatives after the stop bath (whether acid stop or water), that's fine. If you want to wait until after fixation, that's fine too.But why would you wish to do that? Why take the risk when you can view after fixation?
Quite handy if you are developing in trays, deep tanks without lids, or BTZS tubes - all of which require you to do the first steps in absolute darkness.But why would you wish to do that? Why take the risk when you can view after fixation?
Quite handy if you are developing in trays, deep tanks without lids, or BTZS tubes - all of which require you to do the first steps in absolute darkness.
No - the stop bath prevents that.So are you saying that after inspection you can then fix or put it back in the developer for more development?
No - the stop bath prevents that.
The advantage is that you can turn on the lights and actually start seeing what you are doing once the stop bath has done its job.
This week I learned that after stop bath you can fix the negative in normal lightning.
Well, for one, if you are tray developing, this makes it easy to pour out the stop bath and then use the same tray for fixer. Which is great for those with limited space.But what is the advantage? You can't put it back in the developer, so why not put the lights on when in the fix?
I turn on the light once the paper is in stop bath. I have been doing that for years.
How effective would a water stop bath be after Pyrocat-DH development -- good enough for the lights, or wait until the film hits the fixer? (open trays, 11x14 film) Thx...No - the stop bath prevents that.
The advantage is that you can turn on the lights and actually start seeing what you are doing once the stop bath has done its job.
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