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Stop bath and fixer

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MFstooges

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I only measure accurately for developer and use stop bath and fixer generously, meaning I fill up more than I should to make sure the film is fully submerged. I didn't notice any difference but I may not realize.
What do you think?
 
I only measure accurately for developer and use stop bath and fixer generously, meaning I fill up more than I should to make sure the film is fully submerged. I didn't notice any difference but I may not realize.
What do you think?

Are you referring to film development?

If so, the only downside of putting too much fluid in a tank is that it can impede proper agitation.

When you invert a tank, the fluid inside should gurgle and tumble, and that requires empty space.
 
Funny, I have a tank that can take a 35 or 120 reel. I fill it enough to cover the reel with an extra 1/4" or so depending on the film… but I made some spacers from PVC pipe so the reels stay on the bottom. Just didn't like them flopping up and down.

Lately I agitate with way more of a "swirl" than a full turnover - my main tank will dribble when turned over and I try to keep too much chems off my skin.
 
Are you referring to film development?

If so, the only downside of putting too much fluid in a tank is that it can impede proper agitation.

When you invert a tank, the fluid inside should gurgle and tumble, and that requires empty space.

Yes..yes.. sorry I should be clearer. Talking about film development here. I agitate only with developer. The two other chemicals I only swirl it once in a while.
 
Film also needs the same agitation schedule in stopbath and fixer. Not doing so can result in poorly fixed negatives.
 
I use the small Patterson for 1 roll of 120 / 2 rolls 135, around 675cc - 700cc full.
 
What about the volume? Is it critical ?

It is critical to adequate agitation. And even cessation of development and complete fixation depends on adequate agitation.

There is a reasonable range of volumes that will work well. That range will vary from tank type to tank type. But you need to get it reasonably close to the target.
 
You still should measure the ingredients. The tolerances for stop bath and fixer are pretty loose, but you need to get the proportions at least reasonably correct. The comments above about agitation are important. Agitation in these solutions is needed to assure even development and fixing.
 
Fixing is much more critical than developing if you under fix then your negatives won't last.
Washing is the same you won't have negatives if you under wash.

Both fix and wash are temperature dependent.

Try to keep successive baths at the same temperature you can get enhanced 'grain' in 16x20 if you don't...
 
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