PerfectGreat! Thank you people. The first roll is in the fix. I will look at it soon. I went 1-1 68º for 13 minutes. I process in total darkness in a vertical tank which holds up to 5 liters developer and I put enough in to easily cover.
It is such a simple formula and so cheap to make. I recently read a text book put out by Ilford in about 1932 and it published the formula for ID 11. That formula is slightly different from the current one in that it calls for twice the amount of sodium sulfite. The film I processed today was for someone else and all 8 rolls turned out perfect. I think I am going to standardize it for my personal use.D-76/ ID-11 is the standard against which Ilford and Kodak (and I'm pretty sure Agfa and Fuji) have attempted to measure every developer (that is developers intended for regular photography - as opposed to graphic arts, and other areas that use photographic materials) 'improvement' against ever since. Its buffering isn't ideal, but in almost all other aspects it delivers a balance of properties (sharpness - both edge effect and microcontrast, granularity, shadow speed, coverage) across all formats which (under a level of rigorous scientific evaluation that anyone claiming D-76 is somehow 'substandard' will never be able to equal) in concert with emulsion design technique, every subsequent attempt at bettering the performance balance of D-76/ ID-11 across-the-board largely failed - until the work that led to Xtol. Very often those claiming to have some special technique or developer are maybe getting an improvement in one aspect of sharpness/ granularity/ speed at the expense of another, which they aren't noticing because of their choices of format size, amount of enlargement (or quality of scanning), and other material/ optical choices.
It is such a simple formula and so cheap to make. I recently read a text book put out by Ilford in about 1932 and it published the formula for ID 11. That formula is slightly different from the current one in that it calls for twice the amount of sodium sulfite. The film I processed today was for someone else and all 8 rolls turned out perfect. I think I am going to standardize it for my personal use.
I'd trust the massive development chart in cases such as yours.I have a film processing job coming in today and I don't want to buy a developer for this rare event. I used to use Xtol for custom processing but I want to switch to D-76 because I already have all the necessary chems for the very simple formula.
If you are a current or knowledgeable user of D-76/ID-11 ( I understand they are identical) what is your experience regarding dilutions and specifically 35mm HP5? Do you have a recommendation?
Thanks Dennis
Drew has always portrayed D-76 as some sort of “beginner” developer which real photographers graduate from once they attain superior skill and need better results.
Totally incorrect.
Also, Drew stop calling it 76. Please!
Hi Dennis
I have decided to go back to using Sprint Chemistry ( I've never used D76 or ID11 ). Sprint is similar to ID11 and D76 but it won't block up highlights. There is a big chart on their website (sprint systems of photography ) which might give you additional insights for the time to develop in good olde 76 (IIRC times for films are interchangeable).
Have fun with your new old 76 adventure!
Where can they be seen? Reading about them on several occasions makes me curious.Argue with my prints. Hundreds of them
Repeat after me..you will try xtol once more!!Hi Dennis
I have decided to go back to using Sprint Chemistry ( I've never used D76 or ID11 ). Sprint is similar to ID11 and D76 but it won't block up highlights. There is a big chart on their website (sprint systems of photography ) which might give you additional insights for the time to develop in good olde 76 (IIRC times for films are interchangeable).
Have fun with your new old 76 adventure!
michael
people like to poo poo and insinuate people who use certain things are uneducated or unsophisticated or clueless students. fine by me. I'd rather use something that is not toxic and easy to use than have to prove myself by cheating death every time I use it.
John
John! Need to try using silver chloride or as I do make your own POP PAPER...much longer scaleMany of my photos are made under extreme contrast conditions. No matter what film, developer or process, I have to work hard on the prints to get what I want. D-76, pyro or whatever else. There’s no cake and eat it as far as making negatives goes.
couldn't agree moreJohn! Need to try using silver chloride or as I do make your own POP PAPER...much longer scale
Never have issues with contrast...that's just me
I like a easy not hard work!
DREW has a website it's with his name as the url but you have to go to the way back machine to see it.Where can they be seen? Reading about them on several occasions makes me curious.
An electronic reproduction, despite its deficiencies, would be better than nothing for people who are not going to schedule a trip just to see them in person.
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