Starting Medium Format

[max_ebb]

I have a CanoScan 8600F, and it does an excellent job on both negatives and transparencies (including some Velvia that I've scanned), even some transparencies that were a bit darkish.

 

[maddermaxx]

Keith, thats wasn't Off, I was curious as well =]

For the camera, if I receive enough. I'm going to order the RB67 Pro-S with waist level finder, 127mm F/3.8 C, and 120mm back off KEH, EX grade.

Looking at the Gossen Luna meter, is this a good/decent one? Or should I try and stick with digital for being a "noob"

 

[keithwms]

For general metering I use a simple, inexpensive, gossen digipro F. There are all manner of fancy spot meters to be had, but the digipro does it for me, I use it for incident metering mostly anyway.

I recently started to think slide is too expensive to bracket, so then I started to use a dslr as a meter- I consult the histogram. That works very nicely for slide, the highlight tolerance is kinda similar. And it also functions as a good colour temp meter!

For really critical work, I still think nothing beats an instant film proof shot. And with the fuji fp100b or fp100c, a suprising number of those proofs have turned out to be keepers... or at least handy references for scanning or printing a neg or slide later on.

 

[Gary Holliday]

I'd go for a digital meter simply for ease of use and instant information...Sekonic 309 (cheap) or the industry standard Minolta IVF. You will need a good tripod, the heaviest you can carry..Unilock or the Benbo 1 are superb and very flexible. When you start changing cameras, expenses can rise what with new filters, cases and lenses.

Without the prism finder, it can be quite awkward at the start, but you will get used to it and it can even be an advantage when composing shots as it gives a different perspective, shapes can stand out. But as MP Wayne said earlier, a meter prism is not really necessary.

 

[IloveTLRs]

If I can put my ¥2 in, I started MF with a TLR (Primoflex - Japanese brand.) It was a cheap way to get into the format, but I was very disappointed when shooting wide open. Older Japanese lenses and those with scratches give you that swirly out of focus pattern in the background. If that's your bag then great, but personally it gave me motion sickness. Three of three Japanese TLRs gave me those results.

I just purchased a Rolleiflex Automat last month and have not had the same issue.

Old folders are good but you'll need to check the bellows.

Didn't someone mention the Fuji GS645W? I'll put another vote in for that camera. Very simple to use and it takes great photos.

 

[MP_Wayne]

I didn't have a PD prism but I did have a CDS metered prism and found it to be very accurate when compared against my RZ AE prism (I also have the FE701), and against my digital Pentax spot meter. I liked the CDS magnifier (chimney) finder better though. I found both the CDS prism and the CDS magnifier finder to be easy to calibrate myself just by removing the dial and repositioning the plate inside (I recalibrated both of them to be accurate with a brite screen I was using, and then recalibrated them back for the regular screen when I sold my RB gear).

Very interesting. You have me thinking I might have a bum PD prism... Do you know, max_ebb, if a PD can be "home" calibrated like your CDS? That might be a worthwhile exercise for me. The reason I was so down on the PD before was because it was so out of whack compared to the FE701 and my Sekonic 558 (the latter two track within 1/2 stop of each other). But perhaps my PD just needs a tweak like you did with your CDS. Hmmmm...

Yes, you still have to set the aperture and shutter speed when using a metered finder on an RB, but you don't have to compensate for filter factors or bellows/extension tube factors because you're still metering through the lens.

Absolutely correct (I write corrected). I am so used to working with the spot meter and doing the "in my head" bellows/filter factoring with my 4x5, so I guess I tend to do the "manual" process on the RB as well (especially because of my apparently bum PD prism) - damn thing!

 

[max_ebb]

Very interesting. You have me thinking I might have a bum PD prism... Do you know, max_ebb, if a PD can be "home" calibrated like your CDS?

I've never had one, but just from looking at the dial on the RB PD prism, I'd guess probably yes (it looks a little different than the CDS dial, but very similar). With the CDS, you can unscrew the silver thing in the middle with your fingers, and there's a spring behind it. Once you remove that you can remove the dial that you pull out and turn to set the film speed. The plate behind that has 2 screws, one in a slotted hole and one in a small hole, and there are lots of other small holes. If you loosen the screw in the slotted hole and remove the screw in the small hole, you can turn the plate, and different small holes will line up with different threaded holes as you turn it (there are lots of threaded holes behind the plate). This sounds really strange, but that's the way it is with the CDS metered finders. You just have to know which direction you need to turn it, and approximately how far to turn it before you start.

Is your PD prism reading too fast or too slow? Are you using a brighter screen than a regular RB screen? Are you setting the finder for the lens you're using (3.8, 4.5, 6.3, 8)? With all the RB metered finders, you have to set them for the lens that you're using. If nothing else, you can compensate when you set the film speed if it's consistently off a set number of stops.

 

[MP_Wayne]

Is your PD prism reading too fast or too slow? Are you using a brighter screen than a regular RB screen? Are you setting the finder for the lens you're using (3.8, 4.5, 6.3, 8)? With all the RB metered finders, you have to set them for the lens that you're using. If nothing else, you can compensate when you set the film speed if it's consistently off a set number of stops.

Thanks! I will try, on the PD, the process you suggest on the weekend. To your question, it was reading too slow in virtually all instances. I tried the battery replacement route first with no effect. And, as I had my trusty Sekonic 558 around my neck, I just gave up on it (plus I had the FE701 on the RZ anyway). However, I will give it a whirl, and as you suggest, I can always compensate for the film speed (which I planned to do when using a brightscreen anyway). But, because it was always off, again, I just gave up on it and reverted to the Sekonic.

To your earlier comments about the 6x8 motor film backs - I purchased one recently and have not had a chance to use it. However, I am looking forward to trying it out.

 

[panastasia]

I would take that a step farther and say hold out for the K/L lenses. Lately they've been going for about the same price, or just a little more than the C lenses on ebay. There aren't as many of them though, so you have to keep an eye out for them to come up.[/QUOTE]


This is true!

The KL lenses in the longer focal lengths beyond the 180mm (telephoto) are not as readily available as they were a year ago. I base this on checking KEH listings for the past year.

 

[Jeff Searust]

Get the RB, look for 90mm, 127mm and 180mm for starter lenses, later you might want the 140mm, 150mm 65mm and 250mm. look for a cheap spot meter or just go with a reflected meter like a gossen pilot ($30ish on eBay). A good thing to have on the RB is a handle, (pro or dotline --less than 20 bux). Also look for a hefty tripod, you are nearing 10 lbs of camera here. and another good item is a second film back ---guaranteed to come in handy.

 

[panastasia]

Get the RB,....Also look for a hefty tripod, you are nearing 10 lbs of camera here.....

Some people, me included, follow this rule:

heavy camera/light tripod; light camera/heavy tripod.

It's the combined weight that counts the most if the tripod is well built. Obviously heavy everything is better if weight is no issue. It is for me when I backpack into remote locations, especially at high altitudes. Light tripods are also more compact, a real benefit when packing it in. I'm not talking ultralight here, there are limits to this rule.

 

[maddermaxx]

Thanks a lot for the help guys.. Has made the decision making tons easier!