Starting home developing

[syepes]

Hi all,

I am relatively new to the home developing stuff, so I have been reading and gathering information on which Developers and Mixtures i will be using, and after weeks of study I have finally decided on going with the following developers:
- Kodak HC-110 (Because of its easy use and storage)
- ILFORD PERCEPTOL (Because it more or less similar to XTOL and i can get it on 1L packages, I don't have space for 5L)

I mainly shoot portrait and street photography and normally use the following 120/220 films (Box speed for the moment) exclusively for scanning (No darkroom printing):
- Kodak TRI-X 320 TXP
- ILFORD HP5+ 400
- Neopan Acros 100

My Shopping list:
- Kodak HC-110 / ILFORD PERCEPTOL
- ILFORD ILFOSTOP
- ILFORD RAPID FIXER
- ILFORD WASHAID
- ILFORD ILFOTOL

And finally my question "The missing part", what mixtures/solutions/times should I use with these developers and films.

I would really appreciate any suggestions and recommendations.

Regards and thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Ian Grant]

Welcome to APUG.

You don't really need the wash aid for films, it's only really beneficial with Fibre based prints.

Perceptol is equivalent to Microdol-X, and gives a speed loss compared to Xtol. DDX is Ilfords equivalent but it's quite expensive.

Ian

 

[Steve Smith]

The data with the developer and the films should give you the times and dilutions you need but have a look here as well: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php


Steve.

 

[syepes]

As I understand the ILFORD WASHAID helps reduce the usage of rinsing water, I have seen some post where people say it helps with the removing of the fixer (ILFORD RAPID FIXER)

Is this right or should I just use more water?

 

[ann]

true, however, there is no need to use with film.

check out ilford's recommendation for washing film,

 

[Ian Grant]

It does help cut water usage, but not with films which only require short wash times anyway if you don't use a hardening fixer. Ilford Rapid fixer is a non-hardening fixer.

Ian

 

[syepes]

Ok thanks for the suggestion, its going out of my shopping list ;-)

Any recommendations on a good thermometer?, I am thinking on getting this one: Paterson 9" Certified Thermometer (PTP363)

 

[bdial]

Time, dilution, and much more info is also available from the sources;
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/prodChemicals.jhtml?pq-path=13629
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/default.asp

You don't truly need a certified thermometer, but those are reasonably priced, and will work fine. The key is to pick one, and use only one.

 

[syepes]

Thanks for all the fast responses.

I have heard some nice thanks about the XTOL developer, and I was wondering if its possible to only prepare half of the powder to get 2,5L and later on prepare the rest of the powder. (I have a digital weight)

I just don't have the storage space to have 5L around.

Regards,

 

[Steve Smith]

I was wondering if its possible to only prepare half of the powder to get 2,5L and later on prepare the rest of the powder. (I have a digital weight)

It's best not to do that as you cannot guarantee that the chemicals are evenly mixed when you separate them.


Steve.

 

[removed account4]

i notice you are using ilfostop.
a few water fill+dumps works well too
instead of using stop bath, that is what i do.

before you begin, get a baseline from a "clip test" for your fixer.
get your favorite film and clip off a piece of unexposed film and expose it to room light.
put it in your fixer, and notice how long it take to fully clear.
THAT will be half your total fix time.
if you are not using your fixer "single shot" ...
do the clip test again before every darkroom session,
and when it takes twice your original time to clear
your fixer is exhausted and time to mix fresh again.

i always use 2 fixer baths, one for the first fix ( the time it took to clear original clip of film )
then water rinse then the second fix. when your first fix bath becomes exhausted, mix fresh for bath 2
and make your original 2nd bath your #1 ... ( and do a clip test )

have fun!

john

 

[jeffreyg]

I use Ilford Delta Pro 400 (120) developed in Ilford ID11 mfg recommended time + 10% diluted 1:1 @68F, tap water rinse for stop, Kodak Rapid Fix for 6min., thoroughly wash and get excellent scans with an Epson 4870 and Silverfast Ai minor adjustments before scanning. Then use Photoshop as I would in the darkroom for cropping, contrast adjustment, burning and dodging. Consider making your own curves. I can generally have an exhibition quality print in 15min. As was mentioned before you can't beat a properly exposed negative.
Jeffreyg

 

[c.w.]

I'd reccomend picking up some photo-flo and distilled water for your last wash. Water spots are a total pain.

 

[David Beal]

Perceptol (or Microdol-X) at stock concentrations gives fine grain and does, as suggested, result in speed loss of 2/3 to a full stop. But when diluted 1+3 the silver solvent effects of sodium sulfite are lessened and full speed can be realized. Compensation occurs.

Here are my times for developing TXP320 at EI320 with Perceptol 1+3 (18 degrees C in my cool basement):

4 minutes, agitation 5 sec. every 30 sec.
6 minutes, agitation 5 sec. every 60 sec.
12 minutes, agitation 5 sec. every 120 sec.

Search this forum for more information on Perceptol. And, if you can, find a copy of (the late) Barry Thornton's Edge of Darkness.

Good shooting.