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Start-Up Help With New-To-Me Nova Gear

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craigclu

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I recently bought (impulsively as it was cheap) some Nova gear off eBay. It was listed as a 5 slot print washer but obviously was not from the pictures in the ad. It is an 8X10 4 slot processor (labeled Model RHD1/U). It has a separate 8X10 washer. It appears unused and new. I just tested the heaters and it seems water tight and maintained temperatures nicely so all seems well in function. It came with a VHS tape and no other instructions. It all seems basic enough as to functions but I can't readily find any instructions specific to this model and don't have easy access to VHS equipment right now.

What is the proper manner of running the washer? My plan is to use it primarily for RC B&W duties. I have other print washers but this small unit might be handy for quick projects. Any links for me? Are there any viewable versions of these instructional videos on-line? I didn't easily find any but may have been searching incorrectly. I've attached a photo from the ad that shows the equipment.

nova.JPG
 

lantau

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You attach your water supply to the tap below the large diameter overflow. Since I don't have running water in the darkroom I connected an immersion pump in a bucket.

Be careful not to run the heaters without water in the mantle. They are coiled heating wire on a ceramic support inside a toned glas housing. The glas will break from heat stress.

While the water is running you occasionally move the paper in a circular fashion. The paper is held by those clips, which keeps the top edge just below the liquid level. They cost a fortune and you are lucky to have so many. Here they are €20 each.

The washer works for FB paper as well. Just use a neutral rapid fix (you can buy TF-5 in the US) for 60s and wash for 10-15 minutes, which is probably 5-10 minutes more than required. RC paper 2-4 minutes.
 

pentaxuser

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This looks exactly like my system. The 4 slot processor is self-contained and once filled requires no ingress of liquid. Once the water jackets are filled and the slots likewise, avoid moving the processor. Certainly if you have to move it at all "creep" the whole thing along without lifting it. The washer slot fits under the main 4 slot processor and its weight will keep the washer slot stable. You need a water source such as a tap connected to the slot via a tube to the bottom tap. The slot fills up and exits out of the large transparent tube to which a larger corrugated tube can be pushed over and led to a drain. I tend to leave the bottom tap open all the time and use the mains cold water tap as the on-off switch. In the winter, depending on how cold your mains water is you may want to consider using a Y tube from both a hot and cold tap which joins the slot tap. You can then adjust the water temp from the hot and cold taps

If your cold tap delivers water at above or about 5C then a direct connection to the cold tap may be all you will need. RC paper can be successfully washed at a low flow rate and a low temp.

Based on my experience I do not think you will ever regret getting the Nova. Best of luck

pentaxuser
 
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craigclu

craigclu

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Thanks, guys. The processor is pretty logical and should be quick to get a handle on. I wasn't so certain on the washer.... Many years back, I did a lot of testing with some print washers and found that some were more efficient when draining from the bottom and with very small water input. I wanted to get started right with the Nova-intended hook-up on the washer unit. I'm making due with a small darkroom right now that won't hold my bigger enlargers and 16X20 trays so this little rig should be handy for my more typical 8X10 printing.
 

bdial

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You found a nice kit. My 12x16 processor has that same heater set-up. If you aren't on chlorinated city water, a couple of tablespoons of household bleach will prevent the water jacket from growing things.

For development, you want to be fairly aggressive with agitation, especially at the beginning, otherwise the diamond pattern in the slot will cause mottling. Keep the paper moving continuously, either up and down or side to side or some sort of combination for at least the first 30 seconds or so, and then every 10-20 seconds until the development is done. You have a nice collection clips, mine only came with two and I bought a couple more from the UK, but as lantau says, they are a bit dear to buy new.
 

john_s

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......For development, you want to be fairly aggressive with agitation, especially at the beginning, otherwise the diamond pattern in the slot will cause mottling. Keep the paper moving continuously, either up and down or side to side or some sort of combination for at least the first 30 seconds or so, and then every 10-20 seconds until the development is done. You have a nice collection clips, mine only came with two and I bought a couple more from the UK, but as lantau says, they are a bit dear to buy new.

Even if the mottling doesn't appear after basic processing, it can appear after toning, in my case after two-step sepia toning.

The wash slot can be used as a processing slot if you block off the inlet and outlet. I use plastic tubing and a plug.

Some developers last better than others. I use Ilford ID-78 which I mix myself, since Agfa's demise, before which I used Neutol-WA. They are supposed to be warm tone developers but any warm tone is extremely subtle in my experience. See
http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/devID78.htm
 

lantau

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I agitate the prints as recommended by the processors manufacturer. In an elliptical movement. At least the first 20s or so. I have never had any issue with the print being imprinted by the walls.

Late last year I even toned a few prints because the developer was getting a bit old and hence cold toned. I bleach with ferricyanide and tone with thiourea. I also did an experiment with Selenium toner. Using a control print I could finally see the effect. The toning itself was done in trays, btw.

Didn't notice any patterns that shouldn't be there. However, I believe those toned prints were RC. I haven't done any FB paper toning yet. Currently I'm preoccupied with RA4, when I find the time to go into the darkroom.
 
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craigclu

craigclu

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While I'm plotting out some plans for the Nova gear.... Are the walls subject to staining? Cleaning ideas for the textured material? I noticed some units with covers when perusing the net for information. Any clever ideas for limiting evaporation?
 

Pieter12

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The Novas stain quite readily when used for color. Less for B&W. I use a refrigerator coil leaning brush to reach into the slots when I clean. The Nova I have has lengths of (1/2" maybe) PVC pipe that sit on top of the slots as covers when not in use. You could just put some cling wrap across the top of the unit for the same purpose. One of the great features of the Nova is the chemicals stay fresh longer--there's less exposure to the air.

As far as the suggestion to use the washer for some other purpose (toning, 2nd fix) I was cautioned by Nova that the later washers use a plastic material that "was not compatible with chemicals, just water."
 

lantau

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I left chemical sitting in my nova for several months when I just didn't get around to printing. The developer left a black desposit on the walls. But it was easy to clean off again. I was afraid it'd be silver, but probably not. It can be difficult to find something that fits into the slot and all goes the way down. I bought a cleaning cloth for heating radiators but that was almost too thick already and a bit too short. In the end I managed.

I drained mine into 2L bottles before I went for this holiday, knowing that it would be a while to get back into the dark room. I also use protectan to cover the filled slots. I first blow under the lids, then through them (they are pipes). The lids should keep air turbulence down such that the butane gas will stay there. The smell test after a week or two confirms that. If you use the suggested cling film it will be even better. Maybe I'll do that in the future.

You can use Adox MCC developer which is designed for replenishing and use in automatic processors. It claims to prevent formation of sludge. But I never observed that with Neutol, either. I reused the latter for weeks when I was still using trays.
 

john_s

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.....As far as the suggestion to use the washer for some other purpose (toning, 2nd fix) I was cautioned by Nova that the later washers use a plastic material that "was not compatible with chemicals, just water."

Interesting. Mine is not actually a separate washer, but slot number 2 in a 12"x16" long discontinued "Chrome-R" model in which slot 2 is a running water wash, for some positive colour printing material. I used to use fresh water as a stop in normal B&W processing but reverted to mildly acid stop which prevented some staining that I was getting.

Edit: I've used this setup for so long I forgot that slot 5 is a separate wash slot like the OP's photo.

From Nova's old web site:

NOVA
untitled.png
CHROME-R

SUITABLE FOR

BLACK & WHITE

HIGH SPEED B&W

RA4 COLOUR PRINTS

R3 REVERSAL

ILFOCHROME



A unit designed for R3 processes such as Kodak Ektachrome, Fujichrome and Agfachrome.

As a running water wash is required after the first development stage, the processor with its four slots (3 heated) has a washer in the second slot position.

A further final washer unit - a Nova Rapidwash - is also supplied making the CHROME-R an ideal R3 unit.

Totally suitable for all printing from negatives, fast B&W or colour too.
 
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