Stand development: Acid or water stop bath or does it matter?

[ymc226]

I am shooting several rolls of Acros to try stand development with Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour. Reading the stand development threads, most people use several water baths after development rather than an acid stop bath. Is there any particular reason for this?

I have Kodak stop bath readily mixed up and it would be used with continuous agitation for 30 seconds so this would save some time.

 

[sanking]

I am shooting several rolls of Acros to try stand development with Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour. Reading the stand development threads, most people use several water baths after development rather than an acid stop bath. Is there any particular reason for this?

I have Kodak stop bath readily mixed up and it would be used with continuous agitation for 30 seconds so this would save some time.

Kodak stop bath is fine. There are some theoretical advantages to a water stop bath but in practice I have never found them, except for the fact that it is less expensive. But acetic acid in the dilution we use as a stop bath is very inexpensive.

Sandy King

 

[reellis67]

I do so because of the fixer that I use, but I cannot see any reason not to use your standard stop.

- Randy

 

[dancqu]

I am shooting several rolls of Acros to try stand development
with Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour. Reading the stand development
threads, most people use several water baths after development
rather than an acid stop bath. Is there any particular reason ... ?

I have Kodak stop bath readily mixed up and it would be used with
continuous agitation for 30 seconds so this would save some time.

A stop of what ever nature is prep for the fixer. So what fixer?
An acid stop will keep an acidic fix acidic. A water or even
mildly alkaline stop will keep an alkaline fix alkaline.

My fixer is used very dilute one-shot.
So, no stop what so ever. Dan

 

[juan]

I use TF-2 fixer and water stop. One water stop.
juan

 

[DutchShooter]

My fixer is used very dilute one-shot.
So, no stop what so ever. Dan

I was curious which dilution you use and what kind of fixing times you end up with?
I have done the same a few times with a 1+10 dilution of fixer for about 15 minutes (after developing colour-negative in B&W chemicals - don't want to risk contaminating any B&W chem when doing colour-negative work in them).

 

[dancqu]

I was curious which dilution you use and what kind of
fixing times you end up with?
I have done the same a few times with a 1+10 dilution
of fixer for about 15 minutes ...

Whatever the dilution a certain minimum of chemistry
is needed for any one roll of film. The greater the
dilution the more time required.

A 120 roll, 500ml solution volume:
My starting dilution was 1:32 but as the rapid fixer
concentrate aged I changed the dilution to 1:24.
Fix times ran about a good 10 minutes at that
lower dilution.

Due to aging of the ammonium fixer and the little
processing done I've switched to the old slow sodium
fixer. A fresh fix is prepared at processing time from
the solid 'concentrate'. Dan