Stand and Semi-Stand Developing

[philsweeney]

I have no doubt you will be able to control an N-7 scene.

Steve,

I had to go with some HP5. Yes I did handle the N-7!

I achieved good results in a short period. Your articles and help certainly made that possible. I applaud your efforts and work in this area of photography!!

phil

 

[Steve Sherman]

Phil,

HP 5 does have a lower contrast index than FP4 so in the case of extreme compression it can be a plus to use HP5.

OTOH, N-7 equates to Zone 15 which is about all you can push panchromatic film to so these will be extremely rare cases.

Nevertheless, I'm glad you were able to pull off the negative

 

[noseoil]

Phil, could you post an example of what you're working with here? I've been reading this discussion of "n-" big numbers, and would enjoy seeing the results and scene types you're working with in this thread. Sounds like plenty of exposure is the rule for this amount of minus development. Thanks, tim

 

[philsweeney]

Hi Tim,

this is an AZO proof, I cannot scan negatives. the banister shadows (zone III) were EV2 and the lower window was 12 2/3 EV. 15 minutes stand, 5M each. I am going to try 12 min tomorrow. the lower window is a textured frosted glass. there is detail in the negative.

 

[gainer]

I suppose if it were mine, I would first see what can be done in the printing. I would probably print the brightest part of the wall as Zone 7 or 8, bringing the Zone 3 parts up to where they should be. Sometimes burning in is the best way to keep separate scenes separate while keeping the contrast in each scene visually interesting. I'm thinking of the window, of course. I'm a little dubious that the window is small enough to profit from the increased local contrast due to stand development. The detail in the frosted glass, yes. The average level of the glass, probably not.

I could be wrong. There's a first time for everything. (If you believe that last statement. you'll believe anything.)

 

[gainer]

I forgot to mention that maybe the way to go is to increase the dilution and the developing time. I use 35 mm HP5+ with Pyrocat M, 1:1:100, 21 minutes 70 F semi stand, 0,7,14.

 

[chrisf]

Stand and Semi-Stand Development

Last weekend I went out to shoot at an old ironworks site. The light was a 2 1/2 - 3 stop range at best, overcast with plain cloud cover. I shoot Efke 100 and exposed it at ISO 100, developed it in a tank with some hangers using the EMA method as described by Steve S. in his View Camera article. The tank is made from clear acrylic painted black and I use a piece of blackout material to cover the tank so I can leave the closet (darkroom) without any problem. I've done some of this before with good success. I used 1.5:1:150 Pyrocat HD, developed for 80 minutes. The negatives all look good though I haven't printed them yet. I hope to do that next week. I don't have a scanner but know someone who does and I'll ask him to scan them so I can post one or two for you to see and comment. What should he scan them at resolution wise and how big a file should I try to upload?

 

[Nessunego]

I've only recently tried semi-stand development with an Ilford Delta 100 135 format film in Bellini Hydrofen (equivalent of Studional or Rodinal Special) diluted 1:100. Initial agitation for 45s, than 25 minutes stand, 4 inversions, 20 minutes stand.
From my limited personal experience this technique gave me great separation among mid and dark tones and a very good acutance due to increased mycrocontrast. This is an example of what I mean.

 

[greg zinselmeier]

I use agfa aviphot in pyro cat HD in EMA. I love it.

 

[ozphoto]

I don't use this form of development often, but it was superb for some Verichrome that was 50+ years old in Rodinal 1:100 (all I had at the time).

Worked well as I got a few useable shots out of the roll, but for my usual processing regime, it's the typical agitation technique.