Stainless Steel Tank Vs Jobo Tanks

[DH_Studio]

yuck. I never do that.

in terms of washing, I prefer to do an initial fill, dump, fill, dump in rapid succession, which pretty much removes everything but what is actually in the emulsion. From there, do a fill, put it under a dribble of water so that the tank changes water about every 5-10 minutes, then let diffusion over time do it’s job and go do something else in the meantime. The Paterson tank is extremely well suited for that, and the end result is really well washed film. I actually mostly use the Paterson tanks at home and the Jobo stuff at my lab. With the jobo stuff, for C-41/E-6, the in between washes are water changes, the last wash before putting it the final rinse is in a film washer, same thing as the Paterson, let diffusion over time do it’s job.

with either tank system, I never, ever, ever let the reels come into contact with final rinse or photoflo. It’s way too hard to get off the reels.

I didn't know that was an issue - is the same true of stainless steel reels? i've been using photo flo while my stuff is still on the reels, didn't even realize anyone did it any other way.

 

[koraks]

I do this all the time with plastic tanks and reels. I just rinse them thoroughly immediately after each use and have noted no problems. Still, best practice dictates to prevent surfactants coming into contact with tanks and reels as the stuff is difficult to remove and only a tiny trace can have impact on subsequent processing runs. So in short, YMMV and proceed at your own risk - but don't panic.

 

[mtjade2007]

yuck. I never do that.
with either tank system, I never, ever, ever let the reels come into contact with final rinse or photoflo. It’s way too hard to get off the reels.

+1,
I use a bucket of final rinse. I pull the processed film out of the reel and drop the film into the bucket for a few minutes. Never allow the reels or tanks get in contact with the final rinse or the old stabilizer. I don't use photoflo at all.

 

[DH_Studio]

I do this all the time with plastic tanks and reels. I just rinse them thoroughly immediately after each use and have noted no problems. Still, best practice dictates to prevent surfactants coming into contact with tanks and reels as the stuff is difficult to remove and only a tiny trace can have impact on subsequent processing runs. So in short, YMMV and proceed at your own risk - but don't panic.

Wanna hear something funny? A few weeks ago I mixed up some D76 one 1:1 - 1 part stock, 1 part PHOTO FLO instead of water (I stupidly had my Photo Flo in a distilled water bottle with my other supplies and didn't notice PHOTO FLO written in Sharpie across the bottle, somehow). And although I have no idea if the neg will break down sooner or have some other weird effect over time, it turned out totally fine. The wash was interesting...just kept foaming and foaming, had to dump the canister and refill a million times.

 

[pentaxuser]

Today was the 1st time I've heard that. Been pouring stabilizers/photo flo right into the tank with film on reels, and never had any problems.

I suspect we are back to the necessity of pre-wet again I do take my film out of the reel for the wetting agent part but really just so I can make sure that the negatives have no foreign bodies attached and they all look right

They are certainly those who do as you do and never have had a problem. If I had to hazard a guess I'd say that the wash most users give their reels involving warm water post processing removes any trace of wetting agent left on the reels. Unless the reel washing is a long time later I see no reason why remnants of wetting agent which won't have dried should not be easily removed by warm water

Stay in your foxhole a while until the next salvo of '88s pass over

pentaxuser

 

[GarageBoy]

I want to switch back to Paterson or Jobo, because the stainless tanks take so long to fill and I end up with chemicals on my hands because I am filling too quickly. I don't have a darkroom so I cant just drop reels in.

Incidentally, I switched to SS from Paterson because I wanted to use hewes reels, and instead of getting jams, I got film sticking together instead....

Do Jobo 1500 reels load like patersons?

 

[Lachlan Young]

I want to switch back to Paterson or Jobo, because the stainless tanks take so long to fill and I end up with chemicals on my hands because I am filling too quickly. I don't have a darkroom so I cant just drop reels in.

Incidentally, I switched to SS from Paterson because I wanted to use hewes reels, and instead of getting jams, I got film sticking together instead....

Do Jobo 1500 reels load like patersons?

Jobo reels sort-of load like Paterson, but your thumbs have to act like the ball bearings. You can get Hewes reels made for Paterson tanks, Jobo 15xx and 25xx tank systems. Anything stainless (even 316) may not particularly enjoy being exposed to colour bleaches etc in the longer term.

 

[Pieter12]

Jobo reels load like Patersons, but can be trickier and frustrating since there is no ball bearing to move the film forward. Since there is no ball bearing, there is nothing to get stuck and make the reel hard or impossible to load. I find the Paterson generally easier to use, just remember to make sure the ball bearing isn't stuck before loading--I nudge it with the wire end of a dodging tool, you can use a pencil tip or bent paper clip.

 

[Auer]

I find the Jobo 1500 loads easy and smooth for any 120 and 35mm film Ive shot.
I do Color and B&W. The faucet adaptor is handy too for washing.(Sold Separately)
Also the Jobo is very upgradable for size and to set up for rotary processing.

I like mine a lot.

 

[cmacd123]

everyone has different experience of course. the jobo reels have a "depression" or Slot on the top side. you can rest your finger on the edge of the film at that point. I find that far more effective than the ball bearing approach as I have had those drive the film when it is stuck causing the familiar Half moon marks, fallowed by opening the reel and trying again, with a roll of film with a wrinkle. With the jobos you just lightly nudge the film forward with your finger. (the older 1000 reels work the same way.

MY experience with the Jobo 1500 series rels is that I can just push the film into the reel about 6 inches at a time. if it gets stuck, 95% of the time just rubbing the leading edge using the slot while pushing and pulling the film about a half inch in and out of the tank will clear the jamb.

both systems of Plasic reels require the reel to be cleaned and allowed to COMPLETELY dry between uses.

FWIW, the Jobo have the little red tab you can use to to safely load two 120 rolls in the same reel. You do have to ensure that the first roll is part the tab, and has some freedom to move (is not trapped by the tab) before loading the second roll.