By definition "ink" contains a binder (such as shellac in India ink). Inkjet inks also require binders; so do graphic inks. And it's quite difficult to maintain sheen consistency when any ink is involved, regardless of the instrument involved.
Edward Weston used plain India Ink, and the spotting is obvious; and I've known people who used acrylic pigments, which stand out like a sore thumb. I've resorted to fine Sharpie pens in desperation when the deepest black is needed, but kept it small enough, just for some little pinhole sized blemish, that nobody will notice unless viewing the print very very carefully.
Those Micron pens come in sizes smaller than Rapidograph pens did, and don't have the same risk of spillage. They can leave a predictable spot smaller than even a 00000 Kolinsky sable brush can. But like I said, I normally use them just on negatives. A brown Micron dot will allow some transmission of light for sake of negative grayscale retouching, while the black version will block out nearly all light transmission. The non-emulsion side of film doesn't accept these kind of inks all that well; but if you're careful to let it dry first before handling again, it will work. On print paper, there isn't that issue.
I just like to have all kinds of options on hand. Needing to do color print spotting as well widens the selection. I dread spotting true gloss prints like Cibachrome or Fuji Supergloss. At one time bleaching was routinely done in conjunction with color print retouching. That eventually ruins a print - the bleach footprint with its neutralizer halo spreads over time. Only with the dye transfer process were dyes specifically chosen for sake of precise selective removal.
I'm pretty well caught up with my spotting chores. Maybe just two or three black and white prints still to do.