Spotting Finished Prints

[UKJohn]

I was just wondering how people spot their finished prints and what with. I have in the past used Tetenal Spotting Pens which have provide absolutley superb with RC paper, but I'm not so convinced they are appropriate with FB. It could of course be that more experience at doing so is needed.

Thanks

John

 

[Robert Hall]

I would worry about the archivability of the pens. If they are dye, they will probably fade over time. I have used spottone for years and really like how it works. If one messes up, one can rewash the print and start over. Of course that never happens to me.

Then, practice, practice, practice.

Oh, I also use a 0000 brush and cut most of the fibers off the brush and use it about hair width under a magnifiaction lamp.

 

[Wally H]

Spotone & a 15 o brush

 

[Jim Chinn]

I use the Spottone inks and a very fine #000 brush. I put a couple drops of the spotone on a white dish and then let it dry. Then wet the brush and "pull" some of the spottone from the dried area and further dillute this small amount or pull more spottone to increase the density. You have to build the density up slowly with repeated applications and let it dry to see how it will look. This is for fiber base paper.

I always try to follow David Vestal's advice that you don't need to completely remove the imperfection, (as it is very rarely possible to do so), only need to alter it to the point where it does not draw attention of the viewer from a normal viewing distance.

 

[Dave Miller]

I was just wondering how people spot their finished prints and what with. I have in the past used Tetenal Spotting Pens which have provide absolutley superb with RC paper, but I'm not so convinced they are appropriate with FB. It could of course be that more experience at doing so is needed.
Thanks
John

Why do you think them inappropriate with fibre, after all it's the emulsion that you are treating not the paper.

I use these pens, as well as the spottone dye, which has the advantage that the tones can be mixed for a closer match to the emulsion colour.

 

[donbga]

I was just wondering how people spot their finished prints and what with. I have in the past used Tetenal Spotting Pens which have provide absolutley superb with RC paper, but I'm not so convinced they are appropriate with FB. It could of course be that more experience at doing so is needed.

Thanks

John

Spotone. I have all of the colors made so I can match any emulsion color.

I would also emphasize the need to use high quality brushes. A good #0000 sable brush will set you back a few dollars but you won't regret the investment. Don't use a cheap brush! You get what you pay for.

 

[UKJohn]

Why do you think them inappropriate with fibre, after all it's the emulsion that you are treating not the paper.

I use these pens, as well as the spottone dye, which has the advantage that the tones can be mixed for a closer match to the emulsion colour.

Dave,

Thanks for your reply. I have found with RC that using the pens leaves no trace at all of where the print has been spotted, but with FB I have a problem of the pen leaving a dark ring around the dust mark. Why is this, I'm not sure although I would probably put it down to my technique. Also, with RC matching tones with the pens seems easier were with FB I always struggle to get the correct match to hide the spotted area.

I will purchase some spottone and associated sable brushes and give that a try also.

John

 

[rbarker]

I, too, still use Spotone and a fine brush, the tip of which has been carefully groomed.

I had to toss what was left of my first set of Spotone after about 25 years. I figure this set has another 15-20 years to go. I'm not sure what I'd choose if I had to replace it right away, though.

 

[Dave Miller]

Dave,

Thanks for your reply. I have found with RC that using the pens leaves no trace at all of where the print has been spotted, but with FB I have a problem of the pen leaving a dark ring around the dust mark. Why is this, I'm not sure although I would probably put it down to my technique. Also, with RC matching tones with the pens seems easier were with FB I always struggle to get the correct match to hide the spotted area.

I will purchase some spottone and associated sable brushes and give that a try also.

John

Two thoughts on the above.

It is difficult to control the ink flow with the pens, and therefore to prevent the build up of a blob of ink that soaks out around the damaged area giving the ring effect. I tend to be impatient in building up the required tone and density, and end up putting too much ink on the paper instead of letting it dry between applications.

As others have said, it is only necessary to disguise the blemish, and this can often be done with a lighter tone than the surrounding area, which will help prevent the effect.

Since Spottone is used very, very sparingly, almost dry in fact, the problem should not occur.

The original Spotttone is not made any more, although it does turn up on eBay quite often. Once bought it will last a lifetime, or two. Silverprint also stock a replacement.

 

[catem]

I find it's possible to get those rings even with Spotone and a very fine brush, if you're not careful. I've never used the pens so I don't know how they compare. This is rather disgusting but it works very well if you use a bit of saliva on your brush - obviously it's better to avoid putting the tip in your mouth but you can put some on the side of your saucer. Something about its make-up makes dispersal and absorption better- so I was told when I first learnt, by someone with much experience in these matters...

 

[NikoSperi]

This is rather disgusting but it works very well if you use a bit of saliva on your brush - obviously it's better to avoid putting the tip in your mouth but you can put some on the side of your saucer. Something about its make-up makes dispersal and absorption better- so I was told when I first learnt, by someone with much experience in these matters...

Ah yes, but is your saliva archival? I'm pretty sure mine is after a good bottle of Sancerre, but that's really a BAD time to start spotting for some odd reason.

 

[Jim Jones]

I use the Spottone inks and a very fine #000 brush. I put a couple drops of the spotone on a white dish and then let it dry. Then wet the brush and "pull" some of the spottone from the dried area and further dillute this small amount or pull more spottone to increase the density. You have to build the density up slowly with repeated applications and let it dry to see how it will look. This is for fiber base paper.

I always try to follow David Vestal's advice that you don't need to completely remove the imperfection, (as it is very rarely possible to do so), only need to alter it to the point where it does not draw attention of the viewer from a normal viewing distance.

My experience completely agrees with the above. I use distilled water rather than the less predictable saliva or tap water. Dr. PH. Martin's sepia ink works much the same for sepia prints.

 

[firecracker]

I don't do much spot-toning, but when I do I use a brush.

I heard a toothpick can be also a useful tool (very fine point) as well. Is it from this site or from other place? I forgot.

 

[UKJohn]

Two thoughts on the above.

It is difficult to control the ink flow with the pens, and therefore to prevent the build up of a blob of ink that soaks out around the damaged area giving the ring effect. I tend to be impatient in building up the required tone and density, and end up putting too much ink on the paper instead of letting it dry between applications.

.

Dave,

As ever your replies are extremely informative...

I think I to am some what impatient which probably is the cause of my problems, along with trying to match the repaired tone to the surrounding one. I intend to get some spottone so will visit the Silverprint website.

This is such a great site for solving problems, thanks to all for your replies.

Cheers

John

 

[Bob Carnie]

I agree with the spottones and a high quality brush, I use a Windsor Newton #2.

One little point. I prefer to spot prints before heat pressing them. I believe the heat kind of tightens up the emulsion which restricts the flow of ink, the spottone seems to sink into the print easier before heat pressing.

 

[Steve Roberts]

I use Spotone, tap water and a very fine brush. It can be very satisfying to put the final touch to a speck so that it disappears to the point where you have trouble telling where it was.
Sometimes I even print negs deliberately with hairs and dust specks just for the fun of spotting them out. ;-)

Steve

 

[Monophoto]

I use Spotone. I have the full set (bottles now about 30 years old). I put a few drops into a plastic pallatte to dry, and then use a damp #0 brush to pick up some dye and spot the print. I used drugstore reading (3 diopter strength) instead of my normal bifocal glasses to magnify the image. The process is therapeutic.

 

[Jim Jones]

I use Spotone. . . . The process is therapeutic.

OTOH a few hours of the process could drive one mad!

 

[George Collier]

I use spotone also, with a very fine (and expensive) brush. One thing I do not mentioned above-
I spotone large groups of prints all at once. I start with straight toner (one or two drops in a Schnaps glass (funnels to a small bottom) and go through the whole stack of prints, spotting only the darkest areas. Then I add some water with an eyedropper, go through the stack again, hitting lighter areas. I repeat this getting lighter and lighter, eventually a full schnaps glass with almost no actual spotone in it, mostly water, by the time I get to the highlights. This prevents the dark outline, which I believe results from the toner being darker than the surrounding area. I also keep a wad of tissue handy to blot the brush if the area is very small. It may seem like overkill to some, but over time, I've had very few "spots" where you can see the toner.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I use Spotone, tap water and a very fine brush. It can be very satisfying to put the final touch to a speck so that it disappears to the point where you have trouble telling where it was.
Sometimes I even print negs deliberately with hairs and dust specks just for the fun of spotting them out. ;-)

Steve

Steve

Spotting very deliberately dusty prints was an assignment in my first year at photo school. I am sure that this is not the case now.