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Want to Buy SPOTONE #B

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Philippe-Georges

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Want to buy a bottle, ½ fl OZ, of Retouch Methods Co. SPOTONE #B Brown, preferabel in the EEC.
Thank you.
 
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Let me know if a little bit decanted from my only bottle of B will help.
 
Good Sumi sticks, cool and warm blacks, with grind stone and Series 7 brushes, #000,#00, #0 and #, are easy to match up to prints for spotting and give greater coverage than little bottles.
 
Good Sumi sticks, cool and warm blacks, with grind stone and Series 7 brushes, #000,#00, #0 and #, are easy to match up to prints for spotting and give greater coverage than little bottles.
I've been putting off spotting the prints that needed it because I haven't found anything I trust. Was looking forward to trying this until I read

"However, the animal glue contained in the sumi ink slowly deteriorates over times, which gives the change in the soot condition and create a richer color."

I'm not going to do that, unfortunately, it sounds like it would be an issue down the line if it's true. I read it here
https://pigment.tokyo/article/detail?id=10

I have all manner of inks, oils, pastel pigment, charcoals, etc in my studio. May try to mix something up, the oils I'm scared to use, although they're the easiest to use too. The oil will eat the print after the solvent evaporates out over time.
 
I too, have a complete multi media studio, filled with various mediums, oils, watercolours, acrylics, alcohol inks, miscellaneous inks, pens, oil sticks and pastels, etc, etc and have used Sumi inks without colour changes, on Fiber Based quality papers for years.

So far, light and colourfastness is good and other than Spottone the only other material I've found suitable for retouching prints.

"Spotting" refers to pin point camouflage, with the occasional thin lines and the print, under glass, preferably anti-UV, as all works on papers need be, will further aid in making it less easy to the observer, that the photograph sitting behind the protection glass has tiny bits of either good Sumi or Spottone masking the whites of the photograph.

Sumi inks have survived a thousand years or more, intact.

I suggest you take another look at the job you need done and the credible results quality Sumi can deliver.

IMO.


I've been putting off spotting the prints that needed it because I haven't found anything I trust. Was looking forward to trying this until I read

"However, the animal glue contained in the sumi ink slowly deteriorates over times, which gives the change in the soot condition and create a richer color."

I'm not going to do that, unfortunately, it sounds like it would be an issue down the line if it's true. I read it here
https://pigment.tokyo/article/detail?id=10

I have all manner of inks, oils, pastel pigment, charcoals, etc in my studio. May try to mix something up, the oils I'm scared to use, although they're the easiest to use too. The oil will eat the print after the solvent evaporates out over time.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions of using Sumi inks, or other kinds of colour mediums.
But, as I am used to work with Spotone inks for more than 30 years (and their Spot Off too), and finding/mixing the right tonality almost by itself, I can hardly swish to an other system, and I still have, with the exception of #B, all the colours I need, probably for the rest of my life.
Also, I mix different colours, shades and nuances of blacks to achieve the right tonality, that's why I wonder if different brands will mix properly.
 
Have you tried the Marshall's Spot All Brown Tone? I found their spotting products indistinguishable from the Spotone ones I have. I assumed Marshall's bought the formula, though that's just a guess, with no basis in actual knowledge.
 
Have you tried the Marshall's Spot All Brown Tone? I found their spotting products indistinguishable from the Spotone ones I have. I assumed Marshall's bought the formula, though that's just a guess, with no basis in actual knowledge.
Thanks Eddie, I will try that.
 
we used spotone for decades and then switched to marshall's when spotone was no longer available. what we found with the marshall's "neutral black" is that the color changes over time. we have various bottles of the "neutral black" that are now green, lavender, blue- basically unusable. i have not tried the brown.

what we use now is the peerless(links below) product which i have found to far superior to any spotting product we have ever used. i have only used the set and have not used any of the individual brown sheets but the set colors are right on and easily mixed. good luck with your spotting.

https://peerlesscolorlabs.com/products/peerless-watercolors-dry-spot-set-of-5-spotting-colors-blacks
https://peerlesscolorlabs.com/collections/individual-color-sheets-browns
 
Good point about the lightfastness. This is also a critical point with black dyes for retouching. At least the german manufacturer of such dyes gives hints at their lightfastness.
Otherwise remains to use instead pigments, based on carbon. But then you got other issues as different diffusion and basically the lack of hues, though for the Sumi pigments there seem to be hues of carbon.
 
How did Spotone get it right the first time?
 
we used spotone for decades and then switched to marshall's when spotone was no longer available. what we found with the marshall's "neutral black" is that the color changes over time. we have various bottles of the "neutral black" that are now green, lavender, blue- basically unusable. i have not tried the brown.

what we use now is the peerless(links below) product which i have found to far superior to any spotting product we have ever used. i have only used the set and have not used any of the individual brown sheets but the set colors are right on and easily mixed. good luck with your spotting.

https://peerlesscolorlabs.com/products/peerless-watercolors-dry-spot-set-of-5-spotting-colors-blacks
https://peerlesscolorlabs.com/collections/individual-color-sheets-browns
Oh no, I just ordered Marshall...
 
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