SBC is also very handy for Hasselblad lenses because of this, and a useful brick of a meter overall!
SBC is also very handy for Hasselblad lenses because of this, and a useful brick of a meter overall!advantage of this meter is that it provides EVs
I find spot metering very useful with slide film. You place known reference in the -2.5 to +2.5 range accordingly. E.g. my kid in the pool, I will meter the aqua blue water as +1.5.
I find spot metering very useful with slide film. You place known reference in the -2.5 to +2.5 range accordingly. E.g. my kid in the pool, I will meter the aqua blue water as +1.5.
Yes, but never meter spectrals.
If you dont shoot slides there should be no need to bracket just err on the side of overexposure.35mm film is CHEAP?? Certainly not for me, plus the added hassle of developing more film if you bracket..This Spring I hope to be using an Exakta XV on a light but sturdy tripod w/ Komura 135mm & 200mm pre-set lenses. That's all I care to carry and I want the best quality I can get. (I did have a full Mamiya 6 system but did't like it--too much parallex).
I'll attempt an explanation, in case Poisson's not tracking this thread. He's referring to "specular reflections", which are created by direct sunlight reflecting off mirror-like surfaces. Attempting to meter these (a) could damage the meter's receptors, similar to damaging your retinas by looking directly at the sun, (b) would provide useless exposure information. Such an intense illumination of the film would produce solarization, the reversal of the film's characteristic curve at the high density end (manifested as the curve taking a nose-dive toward lower density, very likely leading to the sun's image appearing as clear film). A good example is a photo made by Ansel Adams in which the sun, located in the field of view, appeared as a total eclipse in the print. There is also the term "scintillations" which is similar, but refers to "twinkling" sunlight reflections created, for example, by disturbed water surfaces.Sorry, what do you mean by that?
He's referring to "specular reflections"
I'll attempt an explanation, in case Poisson's not tracking this thread. He's referring to "specular reflections", which are created by direct sunlight reflecting off mirror-like surfaces. Attempting to meter these (a) could damage the meter's receptors, similar to damaging your retinas by looking directly at the sun, (b) would provide useless exposure information. Such an intense illumination of the film would produce solarization, the reversal of the film's characteristic curve at the high density end (manifested as the curve taking a nose-dive toward lower density, very likely leading to the sun's image appearing as clear film). A good example is a photo made by Ansel Adams in which the sun, located in the field of view, appeared as a total eclipse in the print. There is also the term "scintillations" which is similar, but refers to "twinkling" sunlight reflections created, for example, by disturbed water surfaces.
35mm film is CHEAP?? Certainly not for me, plus the added hassle of developing more film if you bracket..This Spring I hope to be using an Exakta XV on a light but sturdy tripod w/ Komura 135mm & 200mm pre-set lenses. That's all I care to carry and I want the best quality I can get. (I did have a full Mamiya 6 system but did't like it--too much parallex).
35mm film is CHEAP?? Certainly not for me, plus the added hassle of developing more film if you bracket..This Spring I hope to be using an Exakta XV on a light but sturdy tripod w/ Komura 135mm & 200mm pre-set lenses. That's all I care to carry and I want the best quality I can get. (I did have a full Mamiya 6 system but did't like it--too much parallex).
35mm film is cheap. Price a 10 sheet box of Tmax 8x10, then complain.
When the top of the line Nikon or Canon DSLRs with multiple lenses cost on the order of $6,000US to $10,000US depending on choices. XTOL developer cost less then $10 for many rolls of black & white film, Unicolor 1 liter costs $23 for 12 to 16 rolls and Unicolor 2 liters cost $35 for 24 to 32 rolls of film. So exactly where did this gripping come from?
When the top of the line Nikon or Canon DSLRs with multiple lenses cost on the order of $6,000US to $10,000US depending on choices. XTOL developer cost less then $10 for many rolls of black & white film, Unicolor 1 liter costs $23 for 12 to 16 rolls and Unicolor 2 liters cost $35 for 24 to 32 rolls of film. So exactly where did this gripping come from?
I have no idea what you are saying. 35mm film is cheap, in comparison to all others on a per-picture basis.
A new Linhof 4x5 Technika body is 10,000 dollars. It's not a 35mm camera.
Aaarggh! I was saying it's CHEAP!What I was saying is that film development is very inexpensive. Sheet films can be very expensive, I know because I make mistakes with Portra 160 4"x5" film, however 35mm film is cheap and its processing can be cheap compared to DSLRs so why the complaint that 35mm film is expensive?
Sorry, Chip, to hear that.How MUCH money do you guys get per month??? I'm a shade over the poverty line w/my VA pension.
How MUCH money do you guys get per month??? I'm a shade over the poverty line w/my VA pension.
Sorry, Chip, to hear that.
I have to budget for film, cameras, entertainment, and so on.
Fortunately my tastes are cheap, my wants are few. In the past 6 years I have spent $1100 plus or minus $100 on film, chemicals, cameras, etcetera.
Hewes reels? I'm not familiar with those. I have all Nikor S$ tanks and reels. Their main virtue for me is familiarity.Once I got my cameras, a used development steel tank is cheap but you need to spend money on good Hewes reels. My paper, film and chemical budget is less than $1,000 over the last five years.
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