Split Grade Printing resources on the web?

[Curt]

I'm familiar with the basic technique but is there a site somewhere which pulls it all together including burning and doging using split grade techniques?
__________________

If we could stick to this line of thought as Rob originally posed and not suggest pieces of information in books or a trip to Ireland then we, the one's who are interested in the technique, would be very happy. There must be a complete one stop place where the entire technique is presented.

Curt

 

[Fintan]

Sorry for posting about the workshop, I have read all thats to read on the web and I have some books. Seeing it on a workshop made it easier, thats all I'm saying.

Fintan

 

[RobC]

Another slant on the techniques of split grade printing. This one seems to be using the cross hatch method which I tried and didn't like.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/powermax/Book Samples/SPLIT GRADE PRINTING .pdf

 

[djkloss]

this one is pretty basic

the best way to learn is by doing

http://www.nocommonground.com/Photo/split.aspx

 

[Mahler_one]

Might I compliment everyone on this very informative discussion? I have recently returned to photography after a medical career, and I have found the split printing method the easiest so far to achieve a very presentable print with the miniumum of difficulties. The explications and descriptions here have certainly been suberb, and whilst not rising to the level of a workshop, have certainly made for the beginnings of a short text!

Les...I enjoy your articles immensely, and thank you so much for taking the time to share you experience and knowledge with us! On your web site you detail the making of the impressive print invovling the clouds and the ocean. To the relative beginners amongst us the dodging and burning plan looks intimidating, even with Richard's timer!

Ed

 

[RJS]

split grade printing

In the Jan/Feb issue of Photo Techniques there is an article by Dickerson and Zawadzki that would suggest that split grade printing is "the long way around the barn". It has seemed that way to me in my experience, but I certainly am not an expert.

 

[Mahler_one]

I have gone back to review the methods involved in split printing, and those involved in standardizing one's materials in order to understand the true grades that one achieves with one's own dichroic filters, and methods. It appears to me that with split grade printing, the need to "standardize" the filters to assure that one is indeed using different grades with the filter combinations used, speed match ( if one is using the dichroic filters on ones color head ), etc. is no longer needed! Is there a simple fact that I am not realizing, but given the need NOT to go through testing procedures, what are the DISADVANTAGES to using split grade printing. Yes, there is some increased use of paper. Anything else?

Ed

 

[Toffle]

Yes, there is some increased use of paper. Anything else?

Ed

Oddly enough, I find that a split-grade print often uses less paper than a single-filtered print. Dodging and burning becomes a much finer tool when it is applied to local contrast control as opposed to controlling exposure alone.

Cheers,

 

[Curt]

In the Jan/Feb issue of Photo Techniques there is an article by Dickerson and Zawadzki that would suggest that split grade printing is "the long way around the barn". It has seemed that way to me in my experience, but I certainly am not an expert.

I finally got a hold of the issue of Photo Techniques that has the article by Dickerson and Zawadzki. They cast some interesting light on Split Grade printing. Now I will have to try it to see whether it is of value or not, I have exclusively used graded paper for projection and contact printing. It was what I read about Split Grade printing that caused me to get some VC paper. Now I wonder if it really is the long way around the barn.

 

[David Brown]

In the Jan/Feb issue of Photo Techniques there is an article by Dickerson and Zawadzki that would suggest that split grade printing is "the long way around the barn".

I have been printing for 40 years. I have been using VC paper for about 20. I have taken a workshop on split grade printing from one of the best practitioners of the technique, and I have read the Dickerson and Zawadzki article. So, here is my opinion (stress "opinion" ) based on all that:

VC papers are very useful, and allow one to do things that graded papers do not. However, the opposite is true, too. Split grade is a technique, and as can be seen by many recent posts, there are variations and adaptations of the basic technique. Some use dicroic filters, some the filter drawer. Some use magenta and yellow, some green and blue. And then there are the fancy, specialized VC heads.

It will not - in my opinion - accomplish anything that could not be accomplished with other methods. But this is true of many printing techniques. However, a number of printers have found it very useful and some have even discovered that it is a better method for their purposes. So for them, it not "a long way around", but a time/paper/frustration saver.

My experience is in using the technique after having learned it from a master. Then I bought the RH Designs timer. (not intended as a plug) I discovered that this timer has a feature where after determining the two exposure times for the hard and soft exposures, the timer will compute the resultant grade. Ignoring burning and dodging at different filtrations, I could then make the same print in one exposure with that grade.

So, I don't use it, unless I really can't get to the contrast I want right off. But, other printers prefer to use this method to determine the proper contrast in the first place. It's really just that, no more. No magic, and no added benefit other than fitting the individual printer's working methods and thought processes.

YMMV

 

[ic-racer]

what are the DISADVANTAGES to using split grade printing. Yes, there is some increased use of paper. Anything else?

Ed

I don't know why there would be increased use of paper once past the learning curve.

Disadvantages are:

a) 2 exposues instead of 1 (possible shift in paper, shift of enlarger head, negative pop, coldlight intensity fluctuation etc.)
b) need to fiddle with the enlarger between exposures to change filters (unless computerized head)
c) changes in the high or low contrast exposure will also alter middle tones.
d) large changes in the high contrast exposure will not only alter the middle tones, but will also alter the highlights. (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
e) dodging and burning are cumbersome. For example a simple 10 second 'edge burn' can become bizarre thing like 8.3 sec and 1.7 sec.

 

[Toffle]

I don't know why there would be increased use of paper once past the learning curve.

Disadvantages are:

c) changes in the high or low contrast exposure will also alter middle tones.

...which does give you pretty fine control over local contrast. Would be a lot easier with an appropriate timer, though. I'm working with an old Gralab and an f-stop lookup chart. Still, it is a comfortable workflow.

Cheers,

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I'm working with an old Gralab and an f-stop lookup chart.

Have you tried a timer dial? I used one for a day just to see what it was like, and thought it a better solution than a chart.

Progressive stop-interval test strips were a PITA, and I went back to using seconds.

For burns and dodges I either used the difference in seconds between stops tick marks or for very simple cases did the burn live, to burn 1.5 stops over 3.0 stops: set the timer to 4.5 stops; place the burning card; start the timer; remove the card when the timer had wound down to 3.0 stops.

http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/grastops.pdf

 

[Toffle]

Have you tried a timer dial? I used one for a day just to see what it was like, and thought it a better solution than a chart.

Yes, I tried that, but unfortunately I couldn't see it very well. (it being dark and all... :rolleyes: )

Progressive stop-interval test strips were a PITA, and I went back to using seconds.


http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/grastops.pdf

Yeah, that's the one I tried. In the absence of a proper analyzer/timer, I think I'll stick to my look-up tables. It's just one of those things that I've become comfortable using.

Cheers,

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I couldn't see it very well. (it being dark and all... :rolleyes: )

-Hits head, "Doh!"

I'm finding my darkroom is a lot brighter than most, though it passes all safelight test with flying colors. I have half-dozen low-wattage Kodak D, C and B OC safelights in a 10x12" space - as a result there are very few shadowy places in the work area. I don't have much trouble reading, and for extra illumination I have a Celestron red LED flashlight.

As to a solution to seeing the dial, I don't think many people have phosphorescent ink in their printer, so glow-in-the-dark is out.

Maybe larger numerals and a black background? White on black does seem more readable.

Has anyone else used (or tried to use) one of these dials and have any comments?

 

[nworth]

Have you tried a timer dial? I used one for a day just to see what it was like, and thought it a better solution than a chart.

Progressive stop-interval test strips were a PITA, and I went back to using seconds.

For burns and dodges I either used the difference in seconds between stops tick marks or for very simple cases did the burn live, to burn 1.5 stops over 3.0 stops: set the timer to 4.5 stops; place the burning card; start the timer; remove the card when the timer had wound down to 3.0 stops.

http://www.darkroomautomation.com/support/grastops.pdf

When I see a print that needs some corrections, I think f stops. I guess it's a carryover from camera practice. Sometimes I even make adjustments that way, but more often I change the time. It's pretty easy to convert in your head and at least get in the ball park. (A third of a stop is 25 percent more or 20 percent less; two-thirds is 60 percent more or 36 percent less.)

 

[Curt]

Then I bought the RH Designs timer. (not intended as a plug) I discovered that this timer has a feature where after determining the two exposure times for the hard and soft exposures, the timer will compute the resultant grade.

?does it do that? How is it done and is it useful, you still have to determine the two exposure times?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Has anyone else used (or tried to use) one of these dials and have any comments?

I made and used this dial before using the RHDesigns f/stop timer. I had no trouble seeing it in my darkroom.