Split grade filter choices for cold light heads
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That's the kooky thing about it, I don't know if I am having contrast issues or not. If I print straight no filter and then using a grade 2 VC filter, I get slightly more contrast, deeper blacks with the filter, but not by a huge amount. The lamp has no stamp on it, is white but output is green-blue, like this guy's. He just replied to a PM and said that his is the newer V54, I bet mine is too then.
Where did you get the gel, any CTO number or other reference?
I have an RH Designs Stop Clock Vario on order that I will install with either the new, white / low output D2 head, or the D2HI, so I might see differences in contrast then, but I am not printing anymore until I get this stuff nailed down a bit more.
Where did you get the gel, any CTO number or other reference?
I have an RH Designs Stop Clock Vario on order that I will install with either the new, white / low output D2 head, or the D2HI, so I might see differences in contrast then, but I am not printing anymore until I get this stuff nailed down a bit more.
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That gel is Rosco #4530 which is described as 30cc Yellow. It came from B&H.
Any difference between no-filter and #2 filter probably does not indicate much.
Best way to determine contrast issues is with a (non-calibrated) 21 step wedge which you should be able to get for less than $20
With your step wedge you would contact print it on your paper under each filter setting. You can estimate the ISO(R) (contrast) by counting the number of gray bands that show with each filtration level (throwing out the just-gray and just-black bands) and multiplying by 15. This will let you know if you get maximum and minimum contrast. Also, you can see if the spacing between the Ilford filter grades bunches up at the high end.
BTW you can do the testing with just the lamp heads, the Ilford filters and little strips of paper. You can test all the filters against each head, with and without the yellow filter. You would then choose the head (with or without filter) that has the contrast grades evenly spaced out and has a middle gray showing on the same step on every one of the numbered filters.
Any difference between no-filter and #2 filter probably does not indicate much.
Best way to determine contrast issues is with a (non-calibrated) 21 step wedge which you should be able to get for less than $20
With your step wedge you would contact print it on your paper under each filter setting. You can estimate the ISO(R) (contrast) by counting the number of gray bands that show with each filtration level (throwing out the just-gray and just-black bands) and multiplying by 15. This will let you know if you get maximum and minimum contrast. Also, you can see if the spacing between the Ilford filter grades bunches up at the high end.
BTW you can do the testing with just the lamp heads, the Ilford filters and little strips of paper. You can test all the filters against each head, with and without the yellow filter. You would then choose the head (with or without filter) that has the contrast grades evenly spaced out and has a middle gray showing on the same step on every one of the numbered filters.
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the idea behind split-grade printing is oo mix two exposure,sone very soft,the other very hard.so whatever it takes to get those contrst extremes from you light source will be ok.
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