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Speedo Power Pack - Too beat up?

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One 400W/sec outlet is broken.
At least the outer barrel with the thread. Depending on the design of your male plug, you still might use it without retainer nut.
 
I'd only be concerned about a Speedo Black Line outfit like that if the case had obvious dents or perforation of the case, or the plugs were not square and plumb with the housing. If the plugs for the heads are bent or otherwise out of alignment, that can be dangerous. Those things are BEASTS and have seen tons of use, so as long as it comes with a warranty, I'd not be concerned. Do be aware of how big and heavy those things are.
 
Yes, for electrical safety alone it would be no good idea not to use the retainer nut.
Thus that one outlet would have to be exchanged.

And for this reason likely no plug would allow use without retaining cap/nut anyway...
 
Jesus, you should see some of mine!

Bigger question is - do you need that much power? And, if you can find one, shop around for a newer dial-down power mo9del (though $200 is about as cheap as you'll find a Speedo pack). If that bent outlet works, I wouldn't worry about it - none of my heads have the slip-nut-thing on the cables.

Give it the "Studio test" - hook everything up with the power cord unplugged at the wall. Plug in the cord, use a wooden broomstick to power it on and hit the test button.

I'm "kinda" joking, remembering a big furniture-rooms photo studio here in the nineties that had an old Novatron pack that - indeed - everyone controlled with a broomstick.
 
Why on earth would a studio pack be so incredibly beat up?!

Any Speedotron that has any not-perfect plugs/sockets for heads I would avoid, as Speedotrons are -- IMHO -- fundamentally deficient even when new, in forcing you to turn off power before plugging/unplugging heads, unlike most other brands.
 
If you are mobile with yor studio flashes and take them on location (where a lot of flash power is needed) and do not take any care in padding and fastening them, I guess a few rides will have the gear end up like that.
 
I have some that look brand new, and some that make the OP's post look pretty sweet. Scratches, dents, rust. I've yet to buy a new Speedo pack, and have no idea what mine have been through (I think I have 5 or 6 now).

Yeah, I wish I could swap heads with the power up... but it's a small trade for packs that last 4 decades and can look like they fell from a helicopter.

That's why they've had such popularity with pros and rental houses. Pretty dang bulletproof gear.
 
Every time I read this thread title I worry that it is going to be about tight men's swimsuits ....
 
I guess you mean the average Apugger is too beaten up to still wearing them...
 
I once worked in a rental shop that had units that made that look pristine.
Not real sophisticated but rugged.
 
I once worked in a rental shop that had units that made that look pristine.
Not real sophisticated but rugged.

I'll say that Speedo gained a little sophistication when they added dial-down. It's global across all the channels, but makes a big difference. I don't miss all the "swap these cables to this channel, change the A|B|C switch, add a bleed head to channel C and run it out the door" hoops I used to jump through to lose a half stop on one channel and keep the others the same! (Or the "get on the ladder with the black mesh, window screen, ND gels and tape" fun).

And yes, metal window screen is a great ND source, though it's not labeled in precise stops...
 
What is a "bleed head"?

My best bet is:
a additional head, not used for lihgting but just for dumping generator energy to change flash duration.
 
What is a "bleed head"?

My best bet is:
a additional head, not used for lihgting but just for dumping generator energy to change flash duration.

Most likely for power control. I've occasionally done that while experimenting with lighting configuration, but never for production work.

In the days of (only) switched capacitor banks, say your lowest setting is 100 W-s, but two flash outlets are wired in. If you wanted less than 100 W-s, you can plug in two flash heads, 50 W-s each, and just get one of them away from your scene.
 
Most likely for power control. I've occasionally done that while experimenting with lighting configuration, but never for production work.

In the days of (only) switched capacitor banks, say your lowest setting is 100 W-s, but two flash outlets are wired in. If you wanted less than 100 W-s, you can plug in two flash heads, 50 W-s each, and just get one of them away from your scene.

Exactly. If you want to do low-DOF stuff and your lowest power head is 1200 ws, you'll be running spare heads all over the place. Even with dial-down packs, you may still find yourself bleeding a channel off.

Just be careful no idiot trips over one and leaves it face-down. There's a hardwood floor in Dallas with a deep-ass burn mark in it... most people will just lie them on their sides, but after that, I've used background stands or baby nail plates.
 
Momentarily confused by the title. I think I heard an Olympic commentator use the same line ( speedo power pack-too beat up?) referring to Phelps and his age.
 
Why on earth would a studio pack be so incredibly beat up?!

Any Speedotron that has any not-perfect plugs/sockets for heads I would avoid, as Speedotrons are -- IMHO -- fundamentally deficient even when new, in forcing you to turn off power before plugging/unplugging heads, unlike most other brands.
I saw someone remove a head without discharging first. The spark was 12" long and sounded like a gun going off.

I would not buy beat up power packs as they are pro used up. are capacitors good? how worn are the tubes. where are these serviced today? Check with mail order Helix Camera. Helix used to be the distributer.

Mono blocks are the way to go. I bought Paul C Buff Einstein units, but they sell cheaper. Just get the heavy stands so you can upgrade. They also have a wide footprint for safety even if you do not use the full 13 feet. Start with one and a reflector. Add more as necessary.
I use a parabolic umbrellas with diffusion panels. Beautiful light.
 
I saw someone remove a head without discharging first. The spark was 12" long and sounded like a gun going off.

How could that happen?
The main capacitator circuit should not have been closed (discharging). If it was closed mechanically at the plug whilst taking it off there would be two plasma streams (socket-plug/plug-socket) in close proximity. Would those not short-circuit?
And if a capacitator can normally be discharged within 1ms, how then could a spark be extended (by taking the plug away) that far? One would have to tear it out really fast (have to calculate that...)
 
I've always tried to avoid arcing any spedo packs, and I taught my students to do that same. They aren't the most user friendly in that regard. I hope that this pack treats you well and that be as careful as need be using this kind of equipment.
 
I worked with Speedotron Black Line packs and they're work horses. What I would not buy are Norman power packs. I've seen a couple blow up or have the plugs arc.
 
Those are old Norman packs! I'm using newer ones, with arc protection, 12/12 and 24/24 and I always turn them OFF before unplugging heads from the pack. The same procedure is recommended/mandatory to 2000 power packs.
I haven't used Norman packs in over 20 years. Have they fixed the capacitors they don't blow up too? But avoid those old Norman packs. Old Norman anything.
 
I have not used their newest pack made under new and improvement management. They were well respected American company providing reliable and not that expensive tools for working photographers. I should not be too harsh towards them. Just Happy 20+ years Norman customer. If you abuse your Profoto or Balcar or Broncolor it will also get back to you too.
 
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