Spanner Wrench

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Eric the Red

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Greetings!
I have been tinkering with a few inexpensive cameras as I learn what needs to be done to make them usable again. In this learning process, as I graduate to nicer lenses on nicer cameras, I find myself in need of a spanner wrench. Doing a Google search lands me in a nice big ole rabbit hole of wrenches. Each claiming to be all that I need. Most of what I have looked at are various style of two post, with interchangable tips. I work on some of the heavy equipment we have at work, so I know that two post things have a habit of twisting suddenly and sometimes violently when torque is applied.
In my perusal of wrenches, this one showed up: https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=1430
This is a triple pole wrench that looks pretty robust. The problem? It's about $100. Quite a bit higher than any of the other wrenches I have looked at. I don't mind spending that money if it's something I need (or want; my stash of film for example), however would I need this much wrench for camera work? I would prefer something that is going to last a bit, but I don't need the "Snap-on" version.
Could I have a few of your opinions, please?

Thank you.
Eric
 

4season

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I design and 3D-print my own miniature spanners, using ordinary PLA plastic for the body, and steel wire for the pins. I designed mine to fit into a standard ratcheting screwdriver.
 

xkaes

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$100?????????????

You should be able to get good spanner wrenches for under $10 each -- IF you need more than one type.
 

r_a_feldman

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$100?????????????

You should be able to get good spanner wrenches for under $10 each -- IF you need more than one type.

Watch out for the inexpensive spanners — they often do not hold their position well. I got one set in the $35 range and the thumb screws that are supposed to hold the two arms in position do not hold worth a dam*. As the saying goes “I cannot afford cheap tools.”
 
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cmacd123

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I assume you are looking at the SPW801 on that page? the others are extremely nice, IF you know what rings you need to get at, and they have the one you need. Microtools just listed a simpler flat spanner that I am sorely tempted to get https://www.micro-tools.com/products/t-132-pk but the Thor one looks nicer.

I did get the impression that the Thor ones were for communications systems rather than Cameras however.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Greetings!
I have been tinkering with a few inexpensive cameras as I learn what needs to be done to make them usable again. In this learning process, as I graduate to nicer lenses on nicer cameras, I find myself in need of a spanner wrench. Doing a Google search lands me in a nice big ole rabbit hole of wrenches. Each claiming to be all that I need. Most of what I have looked at are various style of two post, with interchangable tips. I work on some of the heavy equipment we have at work, so I know that two post things have a habit of twisting suddenly and sometimes violently when torque is applied.
In my perusal of wrenches, this one showed up: https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=1430
This is a triple pole wrench that looks pretty robust. The problem? It's about $100. Quite a bit higher than any of the other wrenches I have looked at. I don't mind spending that money if it's something I need (or want; my stash of film for example), however would I need this much wrench for camera work? I would prefer something that is going to last a bit, but I don't need the "Snap-on" version.
Could I have a few of your opinions, please?

Thank you.
Eric

It's only money. The last shirt has no pockets. You get what you pay for. The one who buys cheap buys twice!
 

xkaes

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A fool and his money are soon parted.

My inexpensive spanner wrenches cost less than $10 each and are ready for decades more use.
 

4season

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I assume you are looking at the SPW801 on that page? the others are extremely nice, IF you know what rings you need to get at, and they have the one you need. Microtools just listed a simpler flat spanner that I am sorely tempted to get https://www.micro-tools.com/products/t-132-pk but the Thor one looks nicer.

I did get the impression that the Thor ones were for communications systems rather than Cameras however.
I own one of those, and it's well-made, but it's still really designed for larger-diameter objects.
 

Tel

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I own one of those, and it's well-made, but it's still really designed for larger-diameter objects.
I have one of those and I find that the spring-mount for the interchangeable blades will occasionally fail and the blade pop out as I'm trying to turn it.

There's another one out there that looks way more robust than the conventional designs, especially those that tend to skew when being twisted. I found it on Micro-tools' site, but it's on backorder from Japan. So I went to Japan Hobby Tool directly and bought one. Should be here in a week or so.

Edit: I see now that B&H has them too.
 

4season

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Here's mine, but so far I've had to create new tools for each make and model of camera that I've worked on, because there seem to be no standard sizes. Rather, I think specialized tools were provided by the camera manufacturers.
 

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Sirius Glass

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I am very pleased with the SKGrimes spanner that I use. I recommend it.
 

grahamp

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I have one of the divider-like ones. The nice thing is that the points can be swapped if needed. I also have one of the 'H' shaped adjustable ones. My experience is that the divider type work better when force is needed, and the H type when you need a deeper reach. The trouble with the H type is that as you rotate your wrist one of the points tends to lift.
 

MTGseattle

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I have one of the "budget" 4-piece designed ones, and I'm not a fan. It has allowed me to change lenses/lens boards and such, but I feel like the card type would likely be safer. I'm a bit of a tool geek, so the SK Grimes, and Thorlabs models look just fine to me.
I have one of the divider-like ones. The nice thing is that the points can be swapped if needed. I also have one of the 'H' shaped adjustable ones. My experience is that the divider type work better when force is needed, and the H type when you need a deeper reach. The trouble with the H type is that as you rotate your wrist one of the points tends to lift.

Exactly to this.
 

reddesert

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I have a couple of the H-type adjustable spanner wrenches - an older generic one and a newer heavier one sold by Neewer that has pin tips on one end and blade tips on the other and is more robust. I have shied away from interchangeable tips as it seems another joint to get loose. The H type wrenches have disadvantages as others have said. They can have flex and it helps to be careful with how you hold them to support both the tips and the crossbar. That said, you can do damage with any pin spanner if you aren't careful.

Mine have been invaluable for removing caps with pin holes (like the cap over many wind levers), lensboard retaining rings, etc, and disassembling some lenses for cleaning. If you need to really put a lot of torque on a lens cell retaining ring, because it's a large diameter thin thread that can gall or be put slightly out of round, it can be difficult to remove with a spanner wrench. The original repairers typically would have had special tools - round with two fixed pins - that both fixed the distance and insured centering the tool on the lens/ring.
 

eli griggs

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Watch out for the inexpensive spanners — they often do not hold their position well. I got one set in the $35 range and the thumb screws that are supposed to hold the two arms in position do not hold worth a dam*. As the saying goes “I cannot afford cheap tools.”

I also have a bargan spanner wrench and it works well most days, but I would welcome better except for the high costs of a 'good' tool

If you're handy with a (good) file or have a drill press and decent drill press vice plus a square mill but from 1/2" or 6mm or so, you can take good brass sheet and either file down the brass to the correct shape, by hand, or lock the cut to size brass sheet/section and starting in the middle, use the mill but to remove the material that would contact the top surface optic if no cleared.

This can be a flat bridge, to later file or sand a suitable arch into or used as is.

There will be remaining material in each side that will need to be reduced, so what you're left with is two flat blades that will no interfere with the optic arch and will physically engage the bottoms of each pair of slots, again not allowed contact of the main bridge to touch the optic.

You may have to thin the brass tabs to allow them to slip into place but do this with a fine flat cut file or fine grit sanding papers, glued to the back of flat metal bar or wide, square shafted screwdriver shaft one stroke each side at a time.

Remove and polish or burnish away all sharp cutting surfaces of your tool, before using
and, if the brass spanner needed re-enforcement, use two longer than the bridge, pieces of hardwood with two holes drilled, and fitted with small bolt or screw, washers and nuts so to form a small clamp that will set upon the top of your new spanner, tightened by wrench and screwdriver, forming a strong hand grip.

Depending on your outlook, this can be tedious or fun,but it should work.

Do not forget to dog ear the two tabs so a slip will no gouge the soft optical glass.

Good luck
 

Terence

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I am very pleased with the SKGrimes spanner that I use. I recommend it.

This is the gold standard. I need to find mine . . .
 
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Eric the Red

Eric the Red

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Good evening gents!
Thank you for all the responses. I appreciate them. The current camera in question, is a folder where the lens retaining ring is right next to the bellows. I watched Mr. Sherlock disassemble this camera, and he stated (and you could see) he had to use quite a bit of force to remove the ring. He suggested a round tip precisely adjusted so as not to gouge the bellows, thus the question. I have looked at the S.K. Grimes wrench, as well as ones similar to the one shown at Japan Hobby Tool. Three of the cameras are folders, but I also have a Aires Viscount, and a Petri 7s that need to be taken apart. All either because of sticky leaf shutters, or (in the case of the Petri)somebody put oil all over the shutter leaves. With all the good advice, I may end up getting two. One pin, and one that resembles a compass. It looks as I could possibly get both of those for the cost of the one I asked about. Thank you all again for the help. Much appreciated.

Eric
 

eli griggs

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Good evening gents!
Thank you for all the responses. I appreciate them. The current camera in question, is a folder where the lens retaining ring is right next to the bellows. I watched Mr. Sherlock disassemble this camera, and he stated (and you could see) he had to use quite a bit of force to remove the ring. He suggested a round tip precisely adjusted so as not to gouge the bellows, thus the question. I have looked at the S.K. Grimes wrench, as well as ones similar to the one shown at Japan Hobby Tool. Three of the cameras are folders, but I also have a Aires Viscount, and a Petri 7s that need to be taken apart. All either because of sticky leaf shutters, or (in the case of the Petri)somebody put oil all over the shutter leaves. With all the good advice, I may end up getting two. One pin, and one that resembles a compass. It looks as I could possibly get both of those for the cost of the one I asked about. Thank you all again for the help. Much appreciated.

Eric

I believe I got my adjustable double round bar spanner from Amazon and it converts from pointed round trammels to flat points.

These are inexpensive but OK stainless steel, but could be made better with a small, flat & 2-3 mm or so lead or dead soft brass self made inserts, so they allows a stronger, form fitting pressure, keeping them tight

Cheers.
 

Bill Burk

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The Learn Camera Repair Facebook group recently mentioned a fair priced spanner kit and gave it fair reviews… let me look it up… be right back
 
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