SOP for aligning an Omega B22

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MolBasser

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Just got a used B22, in pretty good shape, but after all the cleaning and reassembly it is a bit misaligned.

Specifically, it projects the image to the left of the easel a bit so that if one side is sharp, the other is out of focus.

Any help with a procedure to align it accurately would be greatly appreciated.

MolBasser
 

Anscojohn

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It has been forty-five years since I looked at a B22, so I do not know where the screws are for adjusting the carrier stage. When you find that, I think you can do o.k. using Fred Picker's method--a sheet of glass in the carrier and sticking out the front, sides (and back?), and a couple of brand new pencils with erasers to measure/set your equa-distances. Good luck.
 
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MolBasser

MolBasser

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Ah! That is an interesting Idea.....

I know where the screws are, I just need a way to align it properly. This gives me many ideas. Thank you!

MolBasser
 

mgb74

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I have a pdf of the B22 manual. I just looked at it quickly I don't see any info on aligning it, even though it covers setup. If you'd like a copy, PM me with your email address.
 
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MolBasser

MolBasser

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Thanks mgb. I have the manual, and yes it has nothing on aligning. I think the glass sheet in the negative tray method may work well though....We shall have to see.

Shopping for chemicals and trays and such right now....

MolBasser
 

AgX

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I assume "SOP" means "Standard Operating Procedure"...
 

emerson531

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The problem with the Omega B22 (and B66) is that there is no adjustment for the Lens stage. My B22 came with a Lens stage that was out of alignment. I spent a lot of time playing around with shims and masking tape between the Lens stage and the lens board. I eventually returned it to Berkey the distributor in Toronto who replaced the B22 with a B66 that had been checked to be in alignment!

Hope your B22 lens stage is not out of alignment

Emerson in Ottawa
 

rmolson

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Aligning a B22
By coincidence I just finished realigning my B22 I was doing some maximum enlargements and the edges were soft. It may be the lens, an old El Omegas but first I checked alignment and it had gone out. I took my torpedo lever and a smaller string level ( Used to measure pitch on roofing gutters but with a flat base) or any small level First I checked the levels against each other. If they agree and mine did , I then level the base board. Because we are not interested in whether the enlarger is level but whether every thing is parallel Once the base board is level in both directions the small sting level will fit on the negative stage plate. The four screws, two on either side, are loosen every so slightly and the assembly moved until the levels agree on both directions. Then the screws are tightened and the levels again checked in case the carrier stage got bumped while tighten the screws ( it happens) .The final test is the print. Aligning is not that hard it just requires a little patience. There are other methods and expensive tools that can do the same thing But I opt for the old fashion common sense versions.
 
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MolBasser

MolBasser

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The lens is an El-Omegar 50mm 3.8

Right now I am going to use the glass plat in the negative holder method and hope the lens is aligned. If not, then I can adjust the whole thing to compensate for the lense. Lens mount looks fine though.

I'll report my results

MolBasser
 
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MolBasser

MolBasser

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OK, after much fiddling around and beard scratching, I figured the way to align the enlarger. It is now aligned as it is gonna get within its stiffness parameters.

I hope to get all my chemicals and stuff this week and am planning the cheapy wood benches that I have to build for the dark room. It should come together quickly.

Any suggestions on a better lens for 35mm film than I have currently? I'd appreciate it.

MolBasser
 

mgb74

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...Any suggestions on a better lens for 35mm film than I have currently? I'd appreciate it.

MolBasser

Well, there's this, though it says sale pending:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Why not place a "wanted" ad in the APUG classifieds for a 50mm enlarging lens? Just make sure you know the size of your current lens mount. Some came with 25mm holes, others 32 or 39mm.

39mm is the current "standard" but I know the B22 I got some time ago came with an El Omegar in 25mm mount. You can often get a good deal on a Schneider Componon 50mm in that size mount since it's now a non-standard mount.

At the risk of oversimplification:

In Schneider lenses, Componon is better that Componar (there are variations within the Componon category). In Nikon El Nikkors, the f2.8 is better than the f4 (they are actually different designs, it's not just a matter of speed).

Even the Rodenstock Omegarons are significantly better than the Omegar lenses.
 

Rick A

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Just got a used B22, in pretty good shape, but after all the cleaning and reassembly it is a bit misaligned.

Specifically, it projects the image to the left of the easel a bit so that if one side is sharp, the other is out of focus.

Any help with a procedure to align it accurately would be greatly appreciated.

MolBasser
Go to darkroompro.com-- then click on the Omega master service manual link. Its a very detailed step by step for aligning the B-22(and other models as well). Hope that gets you there.

Rick
 
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MolBasser

MolBasser

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Wow, Rick. Thanks! That is very helpful!!!

I downloaded the .pdf and it is indeed quite detailed. Much thanks again!

MolBasser
 

Rick A

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My pleasure, glad I could be of help to you. Keep on keepin' on dude, and have lotsa fun with your new toy.

Rick
 

punkzter

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Does anyone happen to have the pdf instructions for aligning a b22? The darkroompro link no longer works.
 

Jim Jones

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Usually the reason for aligning an enlarger is to simultaneously bring all four corners of the image into focus on the baseboard. Making the negative carrier, lens, and baseboard parallel usually accomplishes this, although perhaps not if the enlarger lens is defective or improperly mounted. The obvious way to align a B-22 enlarger is to slightly loosen the four screws that secure the lens board mount, and adjust until all four image corners are sharp at the widest lens opening. This method may be more tedious than the many other options, but it directly accomplishes the desired result.
 

George Collier

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To follow on Jim's post, an easy way to do what he says is to take a black piece of film, scrape a big X in the frame from corner to corner, both directions. Use this to project onto the easel and finesse the corners of the negative stage until all the corners are sharp. Even if your lens isn't so great, you can judge sharpness by the big X easier than grain sharpness. Try 8x10 first, then as high as it will go.
 
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