Some persuasion needed :)

[haris]

Thing is I have Jobotronic 2000 quartz (I got it when bought enlarger, seller used oportunity to get rid of the "junk" ) and I have Jobo ComTime too (I bought it few years ago before even knew RHdesigns even exists ).

Now, reading praises about AnalyserPro, I am tempted to get one. Well, not AnalserPro, but Zonemaster II, and in future StopClockPro (money reasons and like).

Thing that I don't like with Analyzer/Zonemaster is they are much more complicated for calibration than mentioned Jobo gadgets.

Thing I like is grayscale and few other things, but if not grayscale I think I wouldn't see much difference between Rhdesigns and Jobo gadgets.

I wes read manual of AnalyzerPro/Zonemaster/StopClockPro, so mine findings are based by comparing readed manuals (not real experience with RHdesigns gadgets) and real experience with Jobo gadgets.

So, what I would like are serious real life reasons why AnalyzerPro/Zonemaster would be good investment if already have those Jobo gadgets. Both (RHdesigns and Jobo) of course have same good point, that is both save paper and time, so that reason is already accepted.

And one thing I never was able to understand reding AnalyzerPro/Zonemaster manuals (or Jobo for that matter, so I still use good old test strips method ). Assuming those gadgets are correctly calibrated: When determinating exposure time do one first establish paper grade, then put needed filter in filter drawer/below lens (or dial filtar if use colour/VC head) and then measure exposure time under filtered light, OR one first measure notfiltered light, and after that use filter for needed paper grade, and use time measured with notfiltered light?

My experience is next: I do not find true that exposure time is same for contrasts 0 to 3, and doubled for contrast 4 to 5. For example if I determinate 10 seconds for grade 2 and want to use grade 3, and change M/Y filtration of my colour head from grade 2 to grade 3, I must use longer exposure time, not 10 seconds. I use Ilford MGIVRC papers, and I am switching to FB papers in near (month or two) future.

Or, I just totaly wrongly understand and use those gadgets, and that is probably real truth...

Thanks.

 

[mmcclellan]

Not to berate technology, but I don't think anything beats a good old tried-and-true test strip that you evaluate with your eyes. Good printing is about the photographer's own sensitivity, own vision, own self-expression, etc., and a test strip will tell you all you need to know.

The greatest photographers worked mainly without them and this lesser photographer has never seen the need to have it. In fact, the only "analysis" tool I have is a densitomoeter, which I use for film tests to nail down film speed and Zone VIII density. So, for about 363 days out of the year, it sits unused and gathers dust!

Keep it simple . . . .

 

[Ray Heath]

g'day haris
i totally agree with Michael, nothing you can do with test strips can be bettered with technology

i doesn't need to be complicated to be good

 

[Michel Hardy-Vallée]

Bear in mind that Ilford paper are calibrated to their own set of filters. By using a color head, you are in fact slightly deviating from their standard. That helps to account for the speed differences you find between your contrast settings.

What I would suggest you do instead is get a Stouffer step wedge. It's cheap, satisfies the gadget part of you, and is actually useful. Contact print it on paper for each grade setting. You will find quickly how much speed difference there is between your grades, and have a sense of how the contrast builds up as you change M/Y settings. You might find that you need to dial in a little bit more or a little bit less of M/Y than what Ilford recommends. Color enlargers vary, depending on the age of the filters, the power source, etc etc. If you know how your enlarger behaves, then you are way better than with any gadget.

The other thing that will make your life easier is to use f/stop printing times. For e.g., instead of going with a linear sequence (3,6,9,12,15,18) when you do your test strip, learn a geometrical sequence (like 7,8,10,12,14,17,20... ). There are many web pages and APUG threads devoted to f/stop printing, just search a bit if you need more info. I made myself an Excel sheet to calculate values in halves, thirds, and quarter of stops.