Soft paper developer

[Willie Jan]

When trying to create a 'soft' negative from a high contrast scene, could it also help to use a soft developer to get better highlights?

Now i use a developer that is within one minute ready with development (amaloco 6006). I could dilute more and not shake the tray, but asked myself if there would be a more 'softer' working developer for these scenes to start with.

 

[david b]

well...kodak still makes (for now) selectol soft which can help softened the highlights.

I've used it in the past for split developing (1 min in selectol soft and 1 min in dektol) and it worked fine.

The formulary also makes D-52 which is like selectol soft.

 

[nworth]

If you mix your own, there are a number of formulas out there. Agfa 105 and Beers No. 1 come to mind. Someone reported recently that Beers No. 1 gives very low contrast with some papers.

Metol 2 g
Sodium sulfite 23 g
Potassium carbonate 20 g (Sodium carbonate monohudrate can probably be used in the same amount.)
Potassium bromide 1.1
Water to make 1 l

 

[Les McLean]

In addition to the soft working developers suggested here you could also use a water bath with your normal developer. This will help in the development of the higher contrast highlights and at the same time slightly reduce the density of the lower values. The method is to start development in your normal developer and when the image is reasonably established on the paper remove it and without draining the developer, quickly slide the print into a tray of water at the same temperature as the developer. I suggest a full tray of water. Do not agitate and the highlights continue to develop but the lower values stop developing after a short time. This is because the developer in the darker areas exhausts before the developer in the highlights. You can repeat this several times, giving something like one minute in the water bath with a very short transfer of about 5 seconds into the normal developer to replenish the dev.

 

[Willie Jan]

In addition to the soft working developers suggested here you could also use a water bath with your normal developer. This will help in the development of the higher contrast highlights and at the same time slightly reduce the density of the lower values. The method is to start development in your normal developer and when the image is reasonably established on the paper remove it and without draining the developer, quickly slide the print into a tray of water at the same temperature as the developer. I suggest a full tray of water. Do not agitate and the highlights continue to develop but the lower values stop developing after a short time. This is because the developer in the darker areas exhausts before the developer in the highlights. You can repeat this several times, giving something like one minute in the water bath with a very short transfer of about 5 seconds into the normal developer to replenish the dev.

i'll start with the water bath first....
I do have the chemicals in stock so no problem to create a test developer...

When i dilute the developer more and do not agitate, could I get the same result or is the time for exhaust to long with diluted developer...

 

[Les McLean]

i'll start with the water bath first....
I do have the chemicals in stock so no problem to create a test developer...

When i dilute the developer more and do not agitate, could I get the same result or is the time for exhaust to long with diluted developer...

You don't use dilute developer for a water bath, just your normal developer. the print is transferred into a bath of plain water at the same temperature as the developer.

 

[Willie Jan]

You don't use dilute developer for a water bath, just your normal developer. the print is transferred into a bath of plain water at the same temperature as the developer.

What I ment was, can I help the print a little by using a more diluted developer so that it will take longer before the shadows start darkening...
before putting it into the water.

 

[Les McLean]

What I ment was, can I help the print a little by using a more diluted developer so that it will take longer before the shadows start darkening...
before putting it into the water.

Sorry Willie I misunderstood your question. I would not recommend that you use a normal developer in a more dilute form. When I want a really soft developer I use Selectol Soft or Beers Two Bath.

 

[Willie Jan]

Sorry Willie I misunderstood your question. I would not recommend that you use a normal developer in a more dilute form. When I want a really soft developer I use Selectol Soft or Beers Two Bath.

doesnt matter, maybe my english is not that good...