So I got a Developing Tank but.....

[Jin]

I got so many replies from my previous thread, and thank you all for your valuable inputs. I realized I was whining about the price because I am on a budget. So I went to ebay and won the bid for Paterson Developing Tank for $17.50. It is a good price I believe. However, as some of you might have noticed, it is missing a grey cap. Seller didn't quite disclose that information on the description of the item (I probably should've asked, but I just naively thought "Oh it is a tank that does not need a cap some how"). Is there a alternative way to cap that tank?

Any inputs will be much appreciated once again.

 

[mshchem]

You need the cap for inversion agitation. If you want you can agitate with the black plastic stirring post. Just give it a few turns back and forth every 30s to 1 minute during development. Ask around see if you can find a cap.

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, JIN,

Several layers of household plastic film (Saranwrap) secured by a heavy-duty rubber band should allow for inversion agitation, PROVIDED that you hold a hand over the top when doing it. Only in the development step is proper and consistent agitation particularly critical; fixer and hypo clear should be fine with just twirling agitation. The first response above is probably a good one; Paterson equipment is common, and it's likely that you can locate a cap or even another similar tank at almost-free price level.

Konical

 

[Disconnekt]

The plastic cap is needed only if you're doing inversion agitations, otherwise you can use the agitator stick by itself to develop the film.
If anything you can always post in the "Wanted" classifieds that you're looking for one, good chance someone will reply to it.

 

[Disconnekt]

And I get about the prices for the tanks, on ebay they can get pretty pricy for older used ones, even for the single metal reel ones.
I got lucky and got one for $20 bucks shipped from a user here on the site.

 

[ann]

Let me check tomorrow when I go into class may have one that I can send you

 

[mshchem]

You need the gray plastic gasket ring as well . Can't tell from your picture if you have it. I loved those old Paterson tanks. They leak but that didn't bother me.

 

[KN4SMF]

Make a cap out of something. the original gray cap would likely be all split up unyway. But in the meantime just use the twirlie stick. But don't overdo it. Besides it's a 2 reel tank and if you're only developing 1 roll of film, you can use tilt agitation to a fairly large degree without a cap. Be sure the tank sits a good while in the environment you'll be developing in because it's plastic and a poor conductor of temperature. you don't want to go through all the trouble of getting your developer temp just right and then pouring it in a tank of a different temp. That's why I always water bath first, with water that I've controlled the temp of as carefully as the developer that will follow it.

 

[MattKing]

If you are going to use the "twirlie stick", try to incorporate some sloshing around as well. The "twirlie stick" is actually designed for just the initial agitation (according to the instructions ).
If you find yourself enjoying darkroom work, my bet is that you will soon decide to replace this tank with a current one with a cap. It just works better when you can invert the tank. It won't be a total loss, because that tank can still work as a backup and those reels will work fine in the current tanks.
By the way, that style of tank was replaced in 1981 - so it could be more than 40 years old.

 

[mshchem]

More than you want to know about Paterson
The system 4 tanks debuted in 1968. I got one around 1970. I was in love. 35mm film just about wound itself.

https://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Paterson/Developing_Tanks.html#anchorSS4

 

[Jin]

Let me check tomorrow when I go into class may have one that I can send you

Oh my let me know thank you so much!!

 

[Jin]

If you are going to use the "twirlie stick", try to incorporate some sloshing around as well. The "twirlie stick" is actually designed for just the initial agitation (according to the instructions ).
If you find yourself enjoying darkroom work, my bet is that you will soon decide to replace this tank with a current one with a cap. It just works better when you can invert the tank. It won't be a total loss, because that tank can still work as a backup and those reels will work fine in the current tanks.
By the way, that style of tank was replaced in 1981 - so it could be more than 40 years old.

I will be working once I graduate soon, so I think chances are, like you said, I will get another tank haha. I didn't know it was almost 40 years old. Thank you for the info.

 

[Jin]

More than you want to know about Paterson
The system 4 tanks debuted in 1968. I got one around 1970. I was in love. 35mm film just about wound itself.

https://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Paterson/Developing_Tanks.html#anchorSS4

Thanks for the history. I quite enjoyed reading it actually

 

[John51]

I had one of those tanks in the 70s with a missing lid. Being young and immortal, I used my hand as a lid for inversion. I did inversions over the sink and rinsed my hand straight afterwards, not much leakage.

Now that I'm old and mortal, I don't want chems on my hands or anywhere else they shouldn't be. Even brand new tanks can leak. My Super System 4 does so I use the twist stick for all agitation. Another method is keep the tank on the table and swirl it in a figure of 8, gentle sloshing.

My advice would be to use whichever method is most convenient to you, as done right, it will make no difference to the final print. The Rondinax uses continuous agitation as do the motorised Jobos and no owners are saying 'I'd have better prints if it wasn't for the continuous agitation...'

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Wear gloves and use hand to cap the tank.
If gasket is missing you will need tape.
Agitation with stick never worked for me, iit was giving uneven negatives.

South does not help, it seems.