So how difficult is printing from color negs in the darkroom?

[rpavich]

You can, but I found it messy and stinky. I use drums and a motor base. You can work in room light, you use less chemistry, and you're not inhaling chemicals from an open tray. It's a bit more up front investment, but it works great for me and others.

As has been said, you have less control over the process, which makes it both easier and potentially more frustrating. Primarily what's being referred to is contrast control. It's not like black and white where you have graded or multigraded paper. There are some tricks to controlling contrast in the color darkroom ranging from simple things like chemical additives to more advanced things like masking. You'll be happier, at least initially, working with negatives that are properly exposed and have a good range of tones.

I actually have a roller base (Unicolor I think) and so I'd only have to buy a print drum...correct? I'd not have control over the temp but folks here are processing at room temp.

 

[bvy]

I actually have a roller base (Unicolor I think) and so I'd only have to buy a print drum...correct? I'd not have control over the temp but folks here are processing at room temp.

Look for an 8x10 Unicolor drum with a good gasket/seal to get started. I actually process at 94F for one minute with drums. I keep the developer in small glass bottles (~120ml) and put them in a warm water bath about five to ten minutes before use (I probe the temperature of the water bath). I temper the drum by either filling it with warm water before loading it, or doing a couple of prewashes with warm water just before the developer step. For room temperature, a longer developing time is required, but it should be workable.

RA-4 works over a range of times and temperatures, so consistency is more important than absolute precision.

 

[rpavich]

Look for an 8x10 Unicolor drum with a good gasket/seal to get started. I actually process at 94F for one minute with drums. I keep the developer in small glass bottles (~120ml) and put them in a warm water bath about five to ten minutes before use (I probe the temperature of the water bath). I temper the drum by either filling it with warm water before loading it, or doing a couple of prewashes with warm water just before the developer step. For room temperature, a longer developing time is required, but it should be workable.

RA-4 works over a range of times and temperatures, so consistency is more important than absolute precision.

Thanks, I think I'm all good to go now. I have a drum, a roller base and the chems and paper. Appreciate the help.

 

[MattKing]

I really like the old Cibachrome drums.
Whatever drum you get, see if you can get more than one. If you have 4 drums, most of the drying can be just air drying.

 

[rpavich]

I really like the old Cibachrome drums.
Whatever drum you get, see if you can get more than one. If you have 4 drums, most of the drying can be just air drying.

oh...good tip. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[mshchem]

agregov, RA-4 can be developed in trays at typical room temperatures (68-75F), for two minutes with Kodak Ektacolor RA-RT Developer-Replenisher, minimizing temperature effects and giving excellent results. I used to use a drum, and when room temp processing became available I switched to trays and never looked back, as my productivity increased significantly and I wouldn't think of buying a processor.

I agree almost 100%. No need to use tubes, they just leave you something to clean . Trays work great.
Now reqarding processors. I have been using a a Kodak rapid color processor model 11 with a Simmon Omega heater since 1973. These came out in 1964 designed to use CP 5 chemistry with Ektacolor professional Fiber Base color paper. Back then you could get a color print in 8 1/2 minutes, revolutionary! You can find these on ebay for 50 bucks without the heater.
Designed to be used in total darkness, super simple, 45sec developer, 20 sec stop, 45 sec Blix. You wash the print on the processor for a minute to minute and a half and you are ready for the next print. Because you are washing out the Blix no stabilizer needed. I use Thomas safelights with color filters, you can see quite well, takes about 10 minutes for your eyes to adjust..
Trays are by far the easiest, plus you can develop 4 or 5 prints at a time in a tray, replenish your chemistry, piece of cake. If you like to mix electricity, stainless steel and water in the dark get yourself an old Kodak processor. It's very cool.
Best Regards Mike

 

[mshchem]

I really like the old Cibachrome drums.
Whatever drum you get, see if you can get more than one. If you have 4 drums, most of the drying can be just air drying.

I used to do a lot of Cibachrome printing. There was a cheap little processor called Dev-Tec by Doran, also branded Adorama. The tubes for the Dev-Tec are identical to Cibachrome drums in 8x10 and 11 x 14. I must of scrounged up a dozen tubes. The tubes would rotate in a water bath with a little motor. I don't think I had 200 bucks in everything. I would preload all the tubes and run two processors at a time.
A couple weeks ago I gave a kid a boat load of this stuff, I had 3 20 x 24 tubes as well. It was great fun.
Everyone should try this just for the experience, very rewarding. Oh and a Saunders multi print easel allows for 4 4x5s on a 8x10 sheet of paper
Best Mike

 

[rpavich]

Well, the roll of paper from ebay came...badly damaged, inner light proof bag torn. Got a return and prompt refund and bought a roll from another seller.

My jobo tube should be here today.